You don't have any spring top hats. That means your springs are binding when you turn the steering wheel. The spring should turn with the strut bearing and strut while the strut mount remains stationary. You will need spring hats and some washers to rest the spring weight on the bearing.
I've noticed that the springs would bind and pop on very tight turns but it hasn't been much of an issue... it's so little that I rarely have to turn that tight to maneuver the car around. So I need something like these:
I've noticed that the springs would bind and pop on very tight turns but it hasn't been much of an issue... it's so little that I rarely have to turn that tight to maneuver the car around. So I need something like these:
Yeah. Your coilovers should have come with some. Just use the ones that came with them.
Like these have. I also put a washer between the spring hat and the strut bearing to distribute the load on the aluminum better.
Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
Awesome! 2 of these in two weeks bought by festiva owners. Where are you guys finding this stuff? I looked for one of those for over a year with no luck.
Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
Awesome! 2 of these in two weeks bought by festiva owners. Where are you guys finding this stuff? I looked for one of those for over a year with no luck.
I posted wanted ads on all of the Miata Facebook groups I could find. Took a few months of looking to get that one. Only other intake I found was a new Harada from a place in Japan. They wanted over $500 and shipping was extra... no thanks!
Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
I'm getting a foot of space between the intake flange surface of the head and the firewall of the B6t/g15mr in the Lemons car. That's plenty of room.
Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
Astronaut, I may have a lead on dohc 1.6l headers for fwd. I should know tomorrow. Also, do you have to use the trumpets or no? There's some filter assemblies that would save you a bit more room.
I've been dreaming of this type of build for years. It's awesome to see it coming to life!
We moved the engine 2.125" forward on our LeMons car with the g15mr tranny. That gives you just enough space for your filter.
I'm pretty excited about the build myself. It's nice to have a ton of factory parts that interchange so easily and they're all high quality and dirt cheap. Plus the cars have so much more potential on the track than my C10 build. I'm pretty tired of the VW aftermarket... Soooo much junk that has to be reworked before its useable, and it's ridiculously expensive to build a performance engine. The C10 aftermarket is better but it also costs a ton to go fast. I have as much in front brakes for the C10 as I paid for the whole Festiva.
Astronaut, I may have a lead on dohc 1.6l headers for fwd. I should know tomorrow. Also, do you have to use the trumpets or no? There's some filter assemblies that would save you a bit more room.
I've been wondering what I should do about a header, haven't researched that yet. Keep me updated! I do have shorter bolt-on stacks so I can use a filter without the lid being too close to cause a restriction. Definitely want to use stacks to straighten out the air coming in the carbs. I think the filters are around 3.75" tall and the stacks are about 2". That's going from memory so I may be off a little.
Poked around under the hood of the Capri for about 15 minutes tonight to get an idea of what all needs to be disassembled to get the motor out. There's a ton of stuff under there... :shock: Going with carbs and stand alone ignition will really clean things up.
Will I be better off to pull just the motor, or the motor and trans together?
Got more stuff removed this afternoon. I think it's pretty much ready except for the clutch cable, a/c lines, one heater hose, axles, shifter, and the starter wires. Some of that will be easier to access once it's loose and lifted up a little I think. Need to tow it to the shop so I can do it on concrete instead of out in the field it's in now.
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