Rob's Mazda 121

[bhazard]

Those tires are WAY too big.

[robotrob]

Yea I know.... The funny thing is after I readjusted the bumper they actually don't rub much at all and go full lock.. Gearing is a bit slower on take off but maybe that's just the clutch slipping lol.

I'm definately still going to buy some 185/55s (smallest cheapest) or maybe 175s (prices for low profile 175 15s is ridiculous in aus). The thing is these 185/65s are cheap and plentiful second hand, these 2 are 90% tread and I paid $5 each for them and fitted them myself.. It does look abit silly though

[robotrob]

So I picked up another GLXi 1.5 5 speed with only 160000km but the motor is smokey as all hell...


But it has 4 new tires and a new clutch to go with the F series 5 speed that's in it:


It's all mix and match apart from the Festiva crossmember needing to be modified to fit my 121 (yes I know I'm dodgey, you should too)

Other end bolts up fine, the holes are there at this end but no nuts welded inside the rad support

So this is where I'm at:


Spent a few hours after work fitting stupid things and dissimilar everything else out.. Just need to connect the exhaust (fits without modification, reconnect shifter linkages, fit the ECU and wire it up and find a 3 door EFI tank or dodge a pump into mine for the meantime

[Greywolf]

Y'know what? I think you've got the same rims the guy I got my two Festies from put on one of them. (15 x 6 round hole)

[robotrob]

Those rims are off a honda, guy couldn't tell me what model but I'm guessing civic, accord seems to be 5 stud. I've found 175/50r15 tyres for a semi reasonable price so I'll have to cough up for a set someday, but now I've got 4 like new 175/70r13s its not so much a priority, my old tyres were really bad lol.

What size tyres you running on your festy with the same rims?

[Advancedynamix]

Cars looking good. That Cable F Series looks pretty similar to what came in a Kia Rio over here. Good score! You need to get yourself a welder.

[robotrob]

So I've got it running now, all pretty sweet.. Got WF control arms and the negative camber isn't as obvious as the positive camber is on the WF with my WA control arms lol.

The shifter linkage to suit the F series had way better bushes and with my Honda short shifter the shift are tight as all hell now.. Stock shifter linkage was 15-20mm too short to fit.

I cut off the end of my old crossmember and used that as a "clamp" over the top of the new crossmember to hold it in temporarily, I'll have a good solid think about upgrading the rad support and getting the nuts welded in at the same time

Car seems to be bogging down a bit, idle speed control valve doesn't seem to be working as I've adjusted the throttle stop screw and it stalls when cold.. 12v supply to Idle control valve also supply's the map sensor or air temp sensor I think so if it's not getting power and there's no sensor output that might be why it's bogging

Really happy at the moment, though I still need to pull it all back out again to do rear main seal, sump gasket and driveshafts so that's a bit of a bummer

[robotrob]

Valve stem seals need doing too

[robotrob]

Haven't updated much in a while, car is running sweet.

Fitted a white face tacho cluster, had to repin the plugs but worth it:


Fitted aspire grab handles to the passenger front and both rear sides


The aspire pocket fits where the radio goes better than my "media player" (lol doesn't play CDs) so I'm thinking about mounting it in the glovebox:


Other than that I've just been fixing little things, greased up the seat rails, replaced the wire in the rear sit so it reclines and flips up now, hooked the thermo fan up to the ecu, etc etc..

Suspension is really squeaky and creaky, I'm thinking bout swapping uncut aspire springs back in trot the time being, and if it lifts it up enough maybe running the 185/65 tyres lol

[robotrob]

Just fitted a WF footrest after seeing in my glovebox book that they are optional:









Perfecto!

[robotrob]

Also I had a cargo light but the WF had a cargo light with an on/off switch.. Easy upgrade:

[robotrob]

Also... Lol.. My clock was playing up, not keeping time and display flickering and missing segments, thought I'd open it up and see if anything was immediately obvious


Hmmm. This 82ohm resistor seems to have gotten hot..



Hot enough to melt the plastic:



So I figure I'll get another resistor but sprayed it with contact cleaner and put it back together and now it seems to work fine lol

[robotrob]

Had an idea, I'm liking my clear front indicator lenses that go in the bumper but they remind me of my Daihatsu and Mazda, I wish they were DRLs.. Or on my Mazda I'm shire they were half park light/half indicator...

So my idea:
Swap the socket for the bulb for a brake bulb socket and get a pair of these Amber/white led bulbs http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-Dual-Co...429?nav=SEARCH

Then wire it up in such a way that the drl switches off when the indicator comes on, which I'm sure I could easily do with a relay. Watch this space

[jawja jim]

I've had poor results trying to use cheap LEDs in 1157. Primarily, that pushing the brakes, with key out, will cause the "lights on" alert. In most other locations, LEDs work fine. The exception being the "brake light" in the tach cluster wouldn't work as it stayed on dimly always, and just got brighter when the e-brake was set.

[robotrob]

My idea was to use the two prong brake light socket in the front indicator housing (clear Mazda B2200 lenses in the bumper) and use the Amber/White led bulbs so they function not only as indicators but light up as running lights with the headlight switch in the first (and subsequent) positions

Have you tried using a dummy load resistor to get the 1157 LED bulbs to work in the brake circuit?