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Episode 121. A New Hope

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  • #76
    Picking up a set of valve stem seals tomorrow. Can they be done on a B6 DOHC engine without removing the head?
    If anyone knows of a decent walk through for replacing these, I would certainly appreciate it if you could provide a link.

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    • #77
      Yes. Very basically it goes something like remove valve cover and rocker tubes. Hold valve up using one of 2 or more methods. One at a time remove valve spring, replace seal. Then reinstall.
      On my lunch break i can maybe take a photo of the instructions on the haynes manual. But if you google it it should be the same as most other valve stem seals once you get to the seal.

      Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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      • #78
        You said it was blowing white smoke. That sounds more like coolant entering the combustion chamber. The B3 that came in my '93 had stuck rings from sitting for five years. I drove it for 10k miles and the smoking cleared up to a degree but was always present under acceleration. The smoke was clearly blue in color. The compression test did not show any problems, I believe all cylinders were between 145-165 psi and where I live the elevation is over 5,200 ft. which causes lower numbers. I eventually pulled the B3 out and tore it down and found all the oil control rings stuck to the pistons. The engine ran fine with the oil control rings stuck. It just had a oil consumption problem and the blue smoke that goes along with it. From my experience worn valve stem seals usually show there face upon starting as the oil in the head looks for ways to drain back to the sump such as through the worn seals and into the combustion chamber. Once the engine runs for a short while the smoke usually goes away until next time it is shut off and re-started. Also from my experience worn valve stem seals will not produce a huge cloud as you are describing. I did replace them on the smoking B3 and it made no difference at all. How is your pcv / crank case ventilation? Excessive crank case pressure will cause oil consumption / smoking problems. If this is a B6T there should be a bung on the crank case below the intake manifold and another bung on the oil pan. For the North American market they are capped off probably because of government regulations. I believe cars sold in other markets have an air/oil separator installed between the bungs. If you have the fittings for an air/oil seperator and they are capped off you may want to try and run the engine with the upper fitting un- capped and see if the smoking eases up. It will blow oil out of the opening so you may want to connect a hose to it and coil it to trap some of the oil. Keep the hose elevated so there would be less chance of oil siphoning out of the engine. Run the engine and observe the exhaust. Let it run a while and if the smoke is noticeably less I would think you have ring sealing problems. Of course a cylinder leak down test will be helpful but from my experience an engine can have good compression and also have an oil consumption / smoking problem because of stuck oil control rings. Good luck and let us know what you find.......Cheers.
        '88 Festiva LX 5 speed, A/C, Carb, restored $$$ body paint, badly wrecked @ 200k.
        '93 Festiva L, 5 speed, Aqua, bought from the original owner,.Zero rust but very nasty otherwise. Awaits the B6T.
        '91 Festiva L, 5 speed, bought to drive while putting the B6T in the '93. now B6ME powered.

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        • #79
          And yes you may also want to run it for more then 30 seconds at a time and give it some rpms as long as you know it has adequate oil pressure. You may be looking at smoke caused by assembly oil or if the engine was stored there is the possibility that the cylinders were lubed with oil to keep things from rusting. This oil takes a while to burn up and not to mention it also needs to burn out of the exhaust system.
          '88 Festiva LX 5 speed, A/C, Carb, restored $$$ body paint, badly wrecked @ 200k.
          '93 Festiva L, 5 speed, Aqua, bought from the original owner,.Zero rust but very nasty otherwise. Awaits the B6T.
          '91 Festiva L, 5 speed, bought to drive while putting the B6T in the '93. now B6ME powered.

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          • #80
            So I've sidetracked a bit, but have new valve stem seals ready to fit if required. Couple of things I will try first before going there though.

            The sidetrack? I found an uncracked exhaust manifold! And also found a VJ14 turbo in excellent condition. Both of which were fairly cheap too ($120/$80) Made a few calls this afternoon to source a new turbo to manifold gasket. Found one, but the shop was about to close. The guy asked me where I lived, and turns out he lives close by. So he stopped by on his way home and gave me a new stainless steel gasket, free of charge. Champion!

            Hope it's ok if I give his shop a free plug. http://www.turboaustralia.com.au/

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            • #81
              Looks like the smoke issue was related to the factory oil/air separator, and/or how I had it hooked up. Separator is off the B6T, which has the block vent, whereas the engine I'm using has no block vent. I had diverted both the PCV and fresh air vent through it, and I think the vacuum line was sucking heaps of oil through to intake. Disconnected the separator, and just ran PCV to intake manifold, fresh air vent to fresh air. Nowhere near as much smoke now, it's getting less and less smokey the longer it runs.

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              • #82
                Episode 121. A New Hope

                Originally posted by reddragon View Post
                Looks like the smoke issue was related to the factory oil/air separator, and/or how I had it hooked up. Separator is off the B6T, which has the block vent, whereas the engine I'm using has no block vent. I had diverted both the PCV and fresh air vent through it, and I think the vacuum line was sucking heaps of oil through to intake. Disconnected the separator, and just ran PCV to intake manifold, fresh air vent to fresh air. Nowhere near as much smoke now, it's getting less and less smokey the longer it runs.
                Ahhhh that makes sense
                You've got two different versions of the B6 engine.

                B6t and b6d was first gen with dizzy on intake cam.

                Later version had the dizzy on the exhaust side.

                Later ones weren't provisioned for turbo or oil separator set ups
                Last edited by moz; 07-21-2017, 07:20 PM.
                1988 MAZDA 121- B6T + G5MR SWAP IN PROGRESS.

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                • #83
                  Originally posted by moz View Post
                  Ahhhh that makes sense
                  You've got two different versions of the B6 engine.

                  B6t and b6d was first gen with dizzy on intake cam.

                  Later version had the dizzy on the exhaust side.

                  Later ones weren't provisioned for turbo or oil separator set ups
                  Correct. The B6D was from a 1995 Ford Laser. The B6T had twice as many km on it (think it had 280,000km), which is why I went with the B6D. Seems like the more difficult approach, but has some advantages - higher compression, there's better clearance to brake booster, intake is off to the side instead of top centre.

                  The dizzy was a simple swap over, just make sure both engines are in the same timing position when you swap them!
                  Turbo, just had to run an oil line, teed off from the oil pressure sender. And a couple of coolant hoses.
                  B6T exhaust manifold bolts to B6D cylinder head, but the intake ports are different than B6T, so used the B6D intake manifold with B6T injectors mounted to B6D fuel rail.
                  Last edited by reddragon; 07-21-2017, 11:18 PM.

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                  • #84
                    For the sake of keeping things crystal clear, what you have is a 3rd gen b6d.

                    That's why the dizzy is on the other side and you have the vics intake manifold Etc etc...

                    First and second gen b6d are identical to the B6t in every way except the cams.
                    They stopped making the B6t in 94 with the conclusion of the 2nd gen b6d.
                    1988 MAZDA 121- B6T + G5MR SWAP IN PROGRESS.

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                    • #85
                      Just purchased some tires - Kumho Solus ECSTA HS51 165/50r15



                      And picked up a cheap set of Advanti rims - 15 x 6.5 ET38

                      Build has been moving along - racing seats installed (Drift Blade reclining bucket seats, which are a copy of R34 GTR seats), and interior is mostly complete. Will post some pics over the weekend.

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                      • #86
                        Build is 99.5% complete, so went for the first drive tonight. Goes well, pulls hard! Adv suspension setup feels great too.
                        Only a couple of small issues - the speedo needle broke off, and boost popped a hose between turbo and manifold. So we are back down to 99% complete..

                        Will post a heap of pics soon, just sorting out some camera issues first.

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                        • #87
                          An elegant weapon for a more civilized age.





                          Drift Blade racing buckets, low profile mounts for seating position 2 -3 inches lower than standard

                          And a foam yoga mat done did the rear floor.

                          Chopped rear interior panels lined with black/grey velour carpet.


                          Door cards are a little bit short to be a Stormtrooper trim.


                          I've used the hood lining from my '98 121 DW parts car. Had to chop a bit off each side and rear to make it fit.


                          Rear deflector shield

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                          • #88


                            Battery mount + coolant expansion tank

                            Battery - SSB HVT1 450CCA

                            Throttle position sensor adaptor plate - long story short, swapped butterfly shaft from turbo donor into this throttle body so TPS matched ECU (manual ECU with 4 pin TPS), the shaft was longer and the TPS mounted differently, so had to fabricate adapter plates that allowed for TPS adjustment.


                            Windscreen washer reservoir is mounted at front of passenger wheel well, top up the fluid here -


                            Perspectives to show vertical positioning of engine


                            While your down there, 2-1/4" stainless exhaust is tucked up away under there somewhere


                            I mocked it up first with 60mm PVC pipe, then replicated it on the bench with the stainless.



                            Stainless windscreen trim

                            (blowtorch was used to remove the black coating)

                            Replaced roof trim. Couldn't source original ones, so used 25mm x 4mm black rubber strip, and stuck it down with sikaflex pro.

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                            • #89
                              That is one good looking car! Great job!!!

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                              • #90
                                Sharp car .

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