Episode 121. A New Hope

[firebush357]

Nice!

[Dragonhealer]

Dissapointed I can't see the pics, sounds like a great build!

[reddragon]

Dissapointed I can't see the pics, sounds like a great build!

Try quoting the posts, you should be able to see the picture addresses. Paste them into address bar to view

[reddragon]

So I have started talking to an engineer, in regards to getting the required modification plates, which will allow me to register, insure and legally drive this on our roads. (As opposed to just swapping the number plates off the stock clone parts car). Historically, Queensland is one of the more difficult states to get modifications approved, but I am led to believe that in recent years things may have become much easier...

Am feeling confident of it passing, from the conversations we have had. Inspection is pencilled in for this time next week, so watch this space!

[moz]

I’m not far behind you. I’m in Sydney, so I guess it’s a matter of seeing what the engineer says also.

Good on ya for getting it done so quickly. I haven’t had the time to dedicate to it so it’s taken me years

[reddragon]

Cheers, basically I tried to do an hour a day minimum on the build, the hours soon add up. I could easily have wasted that time watching TV, internet etc!

I've actually spoken to a couple different engineers, and both had similar things to say. Brakes, for example, they would prefer to see a balanced set up, as opposed to using the capri turbo rotors paired with a drum brake rear. So it seems using 1998 Mazda 121 (DW) discs and drums, (which are still a decent upgrade over DA) will be fine for the B6T swap. I'm told the engine size isn't an issue - for a forced induction engine, we could go up to about 1.875 litre. (The forced induction equation for maximum engine size in a vehicle under 800kg is 'Vehicle weight x 2.5'... so 750kg x 2.5 = 1.875. For NA, it's weight x 3 , so 750kg x 3 = 2.25 litre)

Rest of the mods should be fine too - the fuel tank swap, reduction in seating capacity from 5 to 2, fitting aftermarket seats, and the gearbox swap will all probably need to have different codes stamped on the mod plate.

Quoted price for inspection for all the modifications is only $250, includes the modplate if it passes. He even suggested that I send him a heap of photos and explain exactly what I have done, and he will let me know beforehand if any further work will be required for approval.

[Festiver]

That sounds awful being told what you can and can't do to your own car i applaud your ability to deal with it

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[reddragon]

It's not as bad as it sounds. Most modifications can be done, they just need to meet certain criteria. The criteria changes depending on how minor/major the mods are.

The guidelines can be found here if you get bored, or curious.

[Rick the Quick]

Hello Red, that is one fine car. You have covered all the bases and did it in remarkable time. BTW did you get the Capri cluster in and working? Pictures if you wouldn't mind. My B6T conversion is moving at a snails pace due to the fact I spend most of my days working on other peoples projects. You mentioned committing yourself to an hour a day and that's a sensible, do-able plan. Like you said it is better then wasting time on the internet. I hope it all goes well with the inspectors!
Rick

[reddragon]

Yes mate, Capri cluster is in and all guages working. I did have an issue with the speedo needle falling off, and the tiny coiled spring behind the needle wound around the pin. I couldn't get it calibrated properly after that, so I purchased a replacement cluster (found one locally with lower km for $50). When fitting the new cluster, I noticed that one side of the speedo was pushed forward slightly. Turns out the speedo cable was getting pushed sideways slightly by the steering column support frame. It wasn't much, only a 3 - 4mm deflection. If I hadn't noticed and had driven it like that, the needle would likely have fallen off again. Removed dash and drilled a 20mm hole in the column support, and routed the speedo cable through that hole. Lesson learnt!

Unsure if the issue would occur in a left hand drive vehicle. If I had positioned the cluster a few mm across, or even angled forward a few degrees more and it wouldn't have been an issue. I would recommend dash removal if you are looking at fitting the capri cluster. While it can be trimmed etc to allow for cluster to be removed with dash in place, it is a tight squeeze and it's very difficult to connect the wiring and speedo cable. Once you know how to remove the entire dash, it's quite easy to do, and really only takes 10 - 15 minutes after you have done it a few times. And there's less chance of the speedo cable deflection issue occuring.

Also, if the clear face of your cluster is scratched or cracked at all, it can be removed/replaced quite easily. Get some clear perspex/plexiglass, cut it to shape (score both sides and snap it, or use a jigsaw), and put it in the oven (preheat to 250 - 260 F) for 10 - 15 minutes. It will go nice and soft, allowing you to bend it to shape quite easily. Find something with a similar curve to use as a mold, so it will hold the curvature as it cools down. It wont matter if the curve isn't exact, as long as the top and bottom edges are on the same plane as the cluster, you are good to go. If you haven't messed around with plexiglass before it might take a couple of attempts at this before you are happy with how it looks. When happy, drill the hole for the tripometer reset stick, and use silicon or adhesive along top and bottom to attach it to cluster.

Will take some more pics over the weekend.

[reddragon]

Heres the capri cluster, coudn't get a clear picture with engine running but all guages are working





And this an hour or so ago... we are now engineer inspected, approved and mod plate has been attached

[Rick the Quick]

Nice job Red! Congratulations on your certificate. Your dashboard is a thing of beauty......Cheers!

[Rick the Quick]

Yes mate, Capri cluster is in and all guages working. I did have an issue with the speedo needle falling off, and the tiny coiled spring behind the needle wound around the pin. I couldn't get it calibrated properly after that, so I purchased a replacement cluster (found one locally with lower km for $50). When fitting the new cluster, I noticed that one side of the speedo was pushed forward slightly. Turns out the speedo cable was getting pushed sideways slightly by the steering column support frame. It wasn't much, only a 3 - 4mm deflection. If I hadn't noticed and had driven it like that, the needle would likely have fallen off again. Removed dash and drilled a 20mm hole in the column support, and routed the speedo cable through that hole. Lesson learnt!

Unsure if the issue would occur in a left hand drive vehicle. If I had positioned the cluster a few mm across, or even angled forward a few degrees more and it wouldn't have been an issue. I would recommend dash removal if you are looking at fitting the capri cluster. While it can be trimmed etc to allow for cluster to be removed with dash in place, it is a tight squeeze and it's very difficult to connect the wiring and speedo cable. Once you know how to remove the entire dash, it's quite easy to do, and really only takes 10 - 15 minutes after you have done it a few times. And there's less chance of the speedo cable deflection issue occuring.

Also, if the clear face of your cluster is scratched or cracked at all, it can be removed/replaced quite easily. Get some clear perspex/plexiglass, cut it to shape (score both sides and snap it, or use a jigsaw), and put it in the oven (preheat to 250 - 260 F) for 10 - 15 minutes. It will go nice and soft, allowing you to bend it to shape quite easily. Find something with a similar curve to use as a mold, so it will hold the curvature as it cools down. It wont matter if the curve isn't exact, as long as the top and bottom edges are on the same plane as the cluster, you are good to go. If you haven't messed around with plexiglass before it might take a couple of attempts at this before you are happy with how it looks. When happy, drill the hole for the tripometer reset stick, and use silicon or adhesive along top and bottom to attach it to cluster.

Will take some more pics over the weekend.

I recently found a factory (Festiva) cluster for my '91 daily driver and had a similar issue with the speedometer cable. Fortunately I only kinked the outer housing. I rerouted the cable (thanks Jerry!) and was able to straighten the kink. Except for a slight needle wobble below 25 it works fine. I need to pull the cable from the donor car and use it. Regarding the B6T car, I have the entire dash out because it seems only logical to do it this way. I used a slightly different approach on fitment. I will post pictures when I get it closer to being finished. Next thing will be to figure out the wiring. I know I can handle it, just not looking forward to it.

[bravekozak]

I presume I could change the small instrument cluster illumination bulbs to orange if I decide to buy a Capri cluster.
Red, did you have to replace any burned out bulbs?

[reddragon]

I replaced all the bulbs. I don't think any were burned out, though a couple weren't getting power through poor contact. Bend the bulb wires out slightly before inserting them so they make good contact with the bulb holders. Bulbs are clear, and there's 2 different sizes.