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  • Did you get it dialed in? With the rear set up properly, you should be able to come into those freeway off ramps with more speed before the rear gets loose. Freeway off ramps maynot be the best choice for learning what the car does on the limit though. You'll want a place where you can safely spin in circles at 80mph without hurting yourself, anyone else or the car. My average corner speed is around 75 miles per hour on most tracks. These cars do stop quickly when things get out of control, but it's not worth risking it on public roads.
    Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

    Comment


    • I have the camber plates on in the rear. Front is still just put together. The rear is not set but its kinda close. Car is driving good and going straight. Im gonna give it a go as is and see what happens.


      I know its not perfect but its gonna be far above what i can handle for now so its fine. i will continue to set it up right tho. Just ran out of time for this race.
      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

      Comment


      • We finally did it! 1ST. Autocross is complete and the car held together mostly. My right lower strut mount bolt came out! I stuck a replacement back in place just to finish the day. I will hammer out the stock welded in nut and replace with a proper grade 8 bolt asap.

        The car is no where near set right. I tossed on Nate's camber plates and Rick's fender brace and had to get to sleep. The front has almost 0 toe and not very much camber at all. The rear has toe of 2 different amounts and camber of whatever! The front of the car is also way low! I was unable to adjust the pre-load in time. I still ran a decent time. It was my 1st ever event, 1st ever fwd race, 1st ever everything...

        William, Cliff and myself showed up. Cliff ran a 44 second lap, William ran a 48, And i ran a 46. William, and Cliff's car were dialed in. Cliff can drive! and it was Williams 1st time as well. It was a great day. Cliff rode with me a few times and gave very good pointers. We were on track to lay down a very good time until that bolt slipped out!

        The tune was not an issue in overkill. IT ran just fine. Just gotta work out the bugs for daily driving it. Also gonna need slicks at some point in the future. Not now but they are needed.

        I will upload some video later on and post it here.
        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

        Comment


        • Wasnt the rear strut bolt just not tight enough? Or did the threads strip on the cage nut from overtightening?
          The cage nut on the car should be a grade 10 already. The bolt is a grade 10.
          With a good lockwasher and properly torqued it should never come out.
          Sounds like you had fun!

          Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

          Comment


          • Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
            Wasnt the rear strut bolt just not tight enough? Or did the threads strip on the cage nut from overtightening?
            The cage nut on the car should be a grade 10 already. The bolt is a grade 10.
            With a good lockwasher and properly torqued it should never come out.
            Sounds like you had fun!

            Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
            The bolt stripped from over tightening! Ill grab a grade 8 and stick in it. I think grade 8 will be plenty! I hope.
            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

            Comment


            • Mike you need a grade 10.9...they are metric. Grade 8 is not metric.
              91GL BP/F3A with boost
              13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

              Comment


              • Im not reusing the stock nut its stripped. I have multiple stock bolts that i tried. The nut is not able to save. I will use grade 8 bolt with washer lock washer and a nut on the inside of the beam. Grade 8 will be plenty strong. Grades above 8 get stronger but they become brittle. I dont want to go above 8. I have never broken a grade 8 bolt!
                1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                Comment


                • Mike, it sounds like you had fun!

                  Might be simplest to helicoil that captive nut so you can use an OE bolt, I hate having to grab 2 different sockets to get a job done.

                  Were Will and Clif in your class? Who had fastest TOD?
                  Last edited by Dragonhealer; 05-22-2017, 12:13 PM.
                  No car too fast !

                  Comment


                  • I was in ssm and they where in dm
                    I was kinda out classed in ssm I was the only one on street tires . But the little tired b6d did better then expected.
                    I have a lot of room for improvement and the car needs the engine relocationed to solve my axel bind , I have to have the car lifted up in the front more the ideal to help with the bind.
                    This is keeping the rear fromm rotating the way it should.
                    I hope to have all that sorted by next event.

                    Comment


                    • I dont want to reuse the stock bolts. They are to old and tired now. I would rather a bit more work and strength vs ease of wrenching.
                      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                      Comment


                      • From what im told by my passenger is that cliffs car rotates very easy and that mine does not at this time. I will get it all worked out tho. I think i could have gotten close to cliff had i not had the bolt failure. That kinda nocked me off my game a bit. I was nervour the car would break again. I still did ok tho. Next time William and i will be doing much better!
                        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                        Comment


                        • Rotation is also greatly influenced by corner entry speed. Cliff has had a lot of practice at corner entry speed. Setup is very important, but corner entry speed is the main objective. If you set the car up to rotate easily at lower speeds, then it'll be easy to drive slow. If you set it up to rotate a higher speeds, it'll be easy to drive fast, but harder to drive slow. This is why I recommend practice in a safe location, to learn your entry speeds.
                          Last edited by Advancedynamix; 05-22-2017, 01:30 PM.
                          Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                            Rotation is also greatly influenced by corner entry speed. Cliff has had a lot of practice at corner entry speed. Setup is very important, but corner entry speed is the main objective. If you set the car up to rotate easily at lower speeds, then it'll be easy to drive slow. If you set it up to rotate a higher speeds, it'll be easy to drive fast, but harder to drive slow. This is why I recommend practice in a safe location, to learn your entry speeds.
                            So what is the difference in entry speed vs setting? My car needs to rotate more with more speed. I want to push very hard. SO should i still stick to -3 front -3 to -5 rear?
                            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                            Comment


                            • Yes. Also, ride height is very important for turn in and corner exit traction. You'll notice a difference when your chassis is set up evenly and to the basic specs I've provided. If it feels like it's pushing, come in faster and use less brake. These cars will turn in at speeds that are drastically higher than most cars. It takes practice to get used to what it'll do.
                              Last edited by Advancedynamix; 05-22-2017, 01:38 PM.
                              Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                                Yes. Also, ride height is very important for turn in and corner exit traction. You'll notice a difference when your chassis is set up evenly and to the basic specs I've provided. If it feels like it's pushing, come in faster and use less brake. These cars will turn in at speeds that are drastically higher than most cars. It takes practice to get used to what it'll do.
                                Cliff told me to go harder. So i went harder. I was pushing through the turn bad. Almost hit the outer set of cones. He was yelling go go go. So to make that corner should i have started it at an even higher speed? Say i hit it and pushed hard at 30 i need to try 33? It's just that that seems so wrong. Its hard to wrap my mind and foot around that feeling. Not work just go harder itll do it...

                                I started the turn at around 40 i think. Once i started the turn the front end just didnt want to do anything. The rear was not coming around! (clearly not set up very good yet tho).
                                Last edited by mikemounlio; 05-22-2017, 02:00 PM.
                                1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                                1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                                1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                                19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                                1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                                Comment

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