Shopping for a Festiva....

[Pu241]

Mileage master, join the rest of us at fuelly.com!
Lets see what you got MPG wise.

Good advice, except it would be a waste of money to replace good functioning bearings just to swap over to synthetic grease.
More economical to do that when the bearings need replaced.
You can use OEM or 155-80-12's or 13" (if you have the wheels for them) and as Karl has previously said, jack the pressure to side wall designated max and he'll do just fine.
PS
At 50 mph/85 KPH I can do better than 42 MPG (US gallons)/50 MPG (Imperial Gallons)
Hell, I can hit 44 MPG (US Gallons) in my BP festiva with Festiva tranny.

[200KGPGTP]

LOL @ glacially accelerate!!!!

I suppose I'll hold out, see if I can find a FI one, because I would much prefer that to carbed anyways.

This is the one I just mentioned(He said he'd take 500 for it, I've been texting him):

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/2107792410.html

The only other local one that fits my criteria(talked to him a bit too, he said it leaks like a quart a week and the bearings, and it looks overall pretty trashed.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/2089823296.html

Here's a probable stupid question of the year nominee:

Is it possible/how hard would it be to change a carbed engine to FI? It's the same engine, no?

[JoDan]

Anything is possible but you would have to switch out wiring harnesses and gas tanks along with a whole mess of other stuff, not to mention switching manifolds, distributor and I believe the cam is different. Defiantly not worth in IMO.

[200KGPGTP]

Oh dang, pass LOL!

If it was just upper manifold/wiring harness/a couple of sensors, I would debate it, but dang, gas tank and all?! Haha

[Safety Guy]

Although a few people have stock carbed Festivas that run fine even in winter, they are the oldest, and oldest technology fuel delivery. I am staying away from them simply because there are more newer FI cars out there, with the newer, simpler FI technology. That way I only have to learn one of them: "simplicity."

Converting to FI is do-able, but a lot of work to do right.

That said, if you find a killer deal on a really nice shape, nice running carbed Festiva, I would urge you to consider it. I'd ensure it starts up fine from cold not just once, but as many times as possible before buying. (Such a deal under those circumstances is unlikely.)

If I were you, I think I'd prefer an automatic, simply to spare your left leg from a lot of work. Autos are quite sturdy, too, so you have few worries there if it runs well to begin with. My auto has over 215K miles on the original ATX.

Karl

[Occhty]

Defiantly get an efi, 4/5 speed don't really matter on a route as the speed is normally slower. automatics cost more, or are harder to fix, carbys also harder to fix. Weight also dosent really affect milage, again due to the slower speeds. My advice would be to find a 91-93 efi, standard transmission. We get anywhere from 30-40 mpg on our paper routes ( hence the car name.) Also alot of rough gravel will shred 12 rather quickly, best to find a set of 13's if gravels an issue.

Paper route festys

Pros:

Mpg 30/40
Cheep and easy to fix (91-93 efi, standards)

Cons:

Hard cranking windows ( winter=up/down/up/down=broken spring in regulators).
Heater has hard time keeping up with demands.

[200KGPGTP]

Was worried how the heat would keep up. I was also planning on grille blocking, so that may help.

And I have only a block of gravel, and the road is in decent shape.

[Safety Guy]

How often do you start and stop? Do you get out of the car or throw papers from it, or have a helper?

Karl

[200KGPGTP]

30-40 mph for a mile, two houses and a church, then 30 for 2 blocks, one house, down about 2 more blocks about 30mph one house, 35 mph 5 blocks one house, 35 mph 5 blocks one house turn around 12ish blocks 40 mph stop sign, cross, one block 20 mph, 4 houses in a row, then one on right, then one on left, then one block 20 mph turn right stop and walk those houses, (22) then turn back right 20 mph one block stop and give nursing home bundle of 40, turn around 5 blocks 30 mph. Turn right, one block 20 mph, one house, one block 20 mph one house, 6 blocks 30 mph one house, 20+ blocks 35 mph then 4 houses in a row turn around 4 blocks 30 mph then 2 houses, turn left, one house, then 7 blocks 30 mph then 2 houses, then turn left and do that street stop and go, then culdesac stop and go, then turn left 5 blocks 30 mph, turn left 10 blocks+ 40mph one house, 10 blocks 40 mph then turn left into church one paper, then turn left again mile+ 55 mph, then two houses, then 6 blocks 35mph then 3 houses, then turn right for 3 streets in area that is semi stop and go, then a bit more highway blah blah

All in all it's not overly demanding but my grand prix hates it.

Gotta go!

[DriverOne]

30-40 mph for a mile, two houses and a church, then 30 for 2 blocks, one house, down about 2 more blocks about 30mph one house, 35 mph 5 blocks one house, 35 mph 5 blocks one house turn around 12ish blocks 40 mph stop sign, cross, one block 20 mph, 4 houses in a row, then one on right, then one on left, then one block 20 mph turn right stop and walk those houses, (22) then turn back right 20 mph one block stop and give nursing home bundle of 40, turn around 5 blocks 30 mph. Turn right, one block 20 mph, one house, one block 20 mph one house, 6 blocks 30 mph one house, 20+ blocks 35 mph then 4 houses in a row turn around 4 blocks 30 mph then 2 houses, turn left, one house, then 7 blocks 30 mph then 2 houses, then turn left and do that street stop and go, then culdesac stop and go, then turn left 5 blocks 30 mph, turn left 10 blocks+ 40mph one house, 10 blocks 40 mph then turn left into church one paper, then turn left again mile+ 55 mph, then two houses, then 6 blocks 35mph then 3 houses, then turn right for 3 streets in area that is semi stop and go, then a bit more highway blah blah

All in all it's not overly demanding but my grand prix hates it.

Gotta go!

Good Lord! Talk about a guy who knows his job! Hell, run the heat and get one with a removable sunroof! Launch those papers! Haha... Just so you know, heat doesn't come out of the dash vents except for the defrost. Heat comes out on the floor. This would be beneficial in your case, I think. As far as if you have to get out of the car, remember that the doors are half as big as the car is, so one good breeze and you're not at ground zero, but close. As a cheap insulation I would get some of the PolyFill stuff at the craft section at Walmart if yours still has one and stuff it into the panels in the rear fenders, then cover it with IO carpeting, because the utter cold would dissipate the heat quickly. Not sure if you know this or not, but the rear windows pop out at the rear, and at least my '88 carby has a problem with the seals being not-so-great. Maybe some ultra-low profile foam insulation tape would solve that if you weren't into good lookin' mods, if that's your case. BUY A MORE COMFORTABLE SEAT! If you're going to be in that car all day, you'll want one. I suggest the use of Aspire springs and struts in the rear, just because when you carry the weight your back end will sag with the stock struts and springs.

[200KGPGTP]

Lol yeah, that's about half of my route. I could keep going but I don't want to bore y'all any more Lol.

All the insulation is a great idea, was planning on doing something to that extent. was going to remove interior panels to do that as well. I just can't wait to find a decent festiva example!!

[200KGPGTP]

What years were carb and what years were EFI?

Here's one I like, but the price is........... yeah.

http://loz.craigslist.org/cto/2108377523.html

[200KGPGTP]

As well as this one, but it looks to have been painted.

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/2060749010.html

[Safety Guy]

See what the first one has in terms of mileage and condition, etc. Take $1200 cash and if you like it see if "cash in hand" wins the day. For me, runs well, no serious corrosion, good looking brake and fuel lines, everything works (except AC, as noted), and less than 150K miles might make me part with that much money. Full records and maybe some spare parts will help, too.

The 1989 MTX will be carbed. If it's in really really good shape and runs really really well on a c-c-c-cold morning, maybe. Use your best judgement. It would have to meet most of the above qualifications and then I'd probably not go over $900 or $1K at most. It would have to be really really NICE.

Don't be in a hurry with either one. If they can't meet your price point, walk away and keep looking. They might come down in another week or two if they don't sell.

Good luck!

Karl

[neanderpaul]

88-89 were carbed except 89 auto. They have a one year only efi system with a vacuum advance timing. 90-93 are all efi. That $1500 one may have low miles. Go check it out and offer way less and see if you can get a good deal.