What have you done to your Festiva today!?

[sactnato]

1978 Pinto was my first car. My dad bought from a government auction. Tan on tan, black steel wheels with chrome caps in the center. Served me we'll until I got into muscle cars.

[TorqueEffect]

Fixed the wiring for the headunit.

Tried to figure out why two speakers were out, but come to find out that my rear speakers were swapped around, and the balance on the stereo got turned to one side somehow.

Also still doing body work.

[rmoltis]

Went out today and bought a new egr valve.
AutoZone had the cheapest price for a brand new one with gasket.

Didn't need one but figured preventative maintenance/peace of mind
To keep everything in tip top shape was worth it to me.

used crc intake cleaner to clean the egr passageways, throttle body, and the intake manifold behind it.

Also cleaned and re oiled my drop in k&n filter while I was at it.

[crazyrog17]

Had a free hour yesterday to replace my ignition components. $20 for plugs and a rotor, the wires and distributor cap were free under lifetime warranty (insert happy dance - having my receipts organized pays off).

I thought I bought Autolite iridium or platinum plugs, not copper.. Didn't notice until I was putting the old plugs into the new boxes that the boxes said copper. Oh well.

[scitzz]

Gave her a wipe or two with a sponge, got some of the excess grease off...

[1chrisapple]

got some protégé power mirrors and put on aqua car also found a intermittent wiper switch off mazda 626 score

[getnpsi]

I think pinto hubcaps on a festiva is a super tasteful mod btw

[TorqueEffect]

Still doing the rust repair on the passenger side wheel arch.
Since the the front of the arch was completely rusted away, I grabbed a metal cable and using as a bit of structure, and reference for the shape of the wheel arch.

Now I see why rusty cars are given up on and scrapped, lol. But being my first car, this car has way too much sentimental value, and it is all worth it to get it fixed up.

[scitzz]

Still doing the rust repair on the passenger side wheel arch.
Since the the front of the arch was completely rusted away, I grabbed a metal cable and using as a bit of structure, and reference for the shape of the wheel arch.

Now I see why rusty cars are given up on and scrapped, lol. But being my first car, this car has way too much sentimental value, and it is all worth it to get it fixed up.

GO!

[TorqueEffect]

Well the wheel arch rust is fixed, just need to work on filling and sanding until I get it nice and smooth with the body.

Then after that, I will have to cut open the rocker panel, and assess the damage to unibody, then clean it up and get someone to weld some steel rods in there to fix it.

[greywolf200]

Bought these! Haven't sold stockers! Hiding oz's at moms until i do!

Super nice!!!!!!!!!

[getnpsi]

Today i screwed the oil cap back in that was sitting on valve cover for last 200 miles. Bad news oil is everywhere. Good nees is expensive oil so maybe the hot addpack loosened up the old oil and dirt everywhere. Ill ddawnpowerdissolve it this week for sure.

[frankenfester]

Over the past couple weeks Kevin and I have been trying to long distance diagnose this popping I had in my pedal assembly at acceleration. Couple things were suspect including the steering rack bushings being bad (causing the rod inside the rack to move to and fro with inertia causing the pedals to pop as its right on the firewall). Second thing was the sway bar.
Finally had a chance to get under the car yesterday in my mother in law's pitted garage (which came in super handy in letting me keep the weight of the car on the ground and get under it and make a proper diagnosis) and noticed the "u" bracket that holds the sway bar and bushing to the triangle frame mount was loose in the driver side by about a quarter inch. Took it loose and ground the welded bolts off, as my nuts were so rusty and rounded off there was no hope for them. Grabbed a couple 3/8ths 1" long bolts and a couple lock washers and nuts from home hardware and bolted it back up. Problem solved.
It amazes me sometimes the tiniest detail can cause such a catastrophic feeling while driving one of these festys. And since it is my only car, just parking it until I can fix it is not an option. So the next time you guys get a chance to get underneath of yours, give all the bolts a good snugging down.
Also while I was down there I oxide primed the belly of the beast, since by my observation of most Canadian cars they're rusting from the belly up, just to prevent any unwanted rust forming underneath if the car during winter's heavily salted roads here.
Thanks again Kevin!!
-James

[Oren09]

I finally got the head gasket job finished up on the "new" car.
It runs great, has power, everything.
Except the oil light is on and there's a steady water drip at the front of the engine. It drips even when not running. It was practically draining out of the crank pulleys before I started then engine. It then turned into a slow drip.
I would hazard to guess the water pump weep hole is "weeping".
But what of the oil light? The pressure in the top end while running seems normal (cap off, oil flying around). Not sure how else to test and diagnose that.

[jason_]

I finally got the head gasket job finished up on the "new" car.
It runs great, has power, everything.
Except the oil light is on and there's a steady water drip at the front of the engine. It drips even when not running. It was practically draining out of the crank pulleys before I started then engine. It then turned into a slow drip.
I would hazard to guess the water pump weep hole is "weeping".
But what of the oil light? The pressure in the top end while running seems normal (cap off, oil flying around). Not sure how else to test and diagnose that.

Never beleive a $35 sending unit and $30 light.

$12 manual never lies.

My Dakota should of seized up 8 years ago. Still says 0. Replaced sending unit. Wasn't the problem. Cluster hookup failed. Too lazy to tear dash, so instead of a needle going across a line, and a $80 repair, I bought a $12 one with actual numbers, and zip screwed it to the plastic on bottom of dash.

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