MPGs run, Aspire SE

[rmoltis]

When I went back to stock timing after dialing more advance and more fuel pressure.
The other day when I was fiddling around with everything

I noticed those little "hesitations" in accelleration I'd call it.
I think the stock 10* was too retarded for the extra fuel pressure and air flow+ burn rate.

But once I advanced to the correct point it went back away.
And now accellerates smoothly.

I would tinker with the timing and see if you can get it to go back away again.

[TominMO]

Turns out when I got home and checked my manual re-timing guess, it was spot on at 10 BTDC. Still had little power, and wanted to die while coasting. I'm prob gonna hafta pull this head and stick my spare JY head on. It looks to be in good shape. And of course transfer the MPG cam into it so I can continue testing. But I will start with retarding cam timing 2 degrees, then gradually increase the retardation by 2 degrees at a time. Of course first I will check compession on this head (I'll get to it tmw morning).

[TominMO]

BTW this won't keep me from coming to Madness. I'll just jump in the Festy. Have parts to deliver too....

[Pu241]

BTW this won't keep me from coming to Madness. I'll just jump in the Festy. Have parts to deliver too....

Neither rain nor snow nor possibly burnt valves will keep TominMO from attending Madness!
Good to know!

[jason_]

I had no warning when mine burned.

Prior night I took my home made cat replace pipe off to do some patches, and ended up driving it to work with a open down pipe (a year before I drove it all summer like that, hideously loud, I loved it for the 7 months)

Anyways, blaring down the road, 1/2 to work, beautiful power curve, hitting evenly on all 4, then blurp, instant miss. Killing ignition and letting engine drag in high gear, wide open intake I could hear air ticking out the pipe, like a sparkplug was removed. Closed throttle didn't hear anything.

That was my signature of approval.

Unbolting head, I found this! 80k miles on touched up valves!





So, that's when I finally installed my crazy 93 octane barely enough high ratio, milled head, new valves, bored over, 3cc dished pistoned monster.

I honestly am a believer of higher compression, with octane, makes a milage difference.

I'm curious how far you can push stock ratio.



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[TominMO]

^^ I would not be surprised if i find the same thing. Gonna wait until after Madness to pull the head, as I need to be able to move it around for now. Things're definitely getting interesting. Need to find someone around here who can walk me through some simple headwork, like replacing valve seals and keepers. Oh wait, I can bring my spare head to Madness!!! :-)

[Zanzer]

^^ Does that mean I should bring my cylinder head tools to Madness?

[jason_]

Bring it to madness. I have the smaller compressor, and I still hate fighting keepers.... Little bastards.... Then again I'm always buzzed when working in shop.

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[TominMO]

^^ Does that mean I should bring my cylinder head tools to Madness?

Yes it does.

Bring it to madness. I have the smaller compressor, and I still hate fighting keepers.... Little bastards.... Then again I'm always buzzed when working in shop.

Yeah, I want to get some experience with heads so I can work on 'em myself--just simple stuff like what I mentioned, not so much with flow work. Who makes good-quality valve spring compressors, both for on-the-block and off-the-block work? And where can I get them?

[Zanzer]

KD, OTC, Lisle, and of course Snap-On or MAC. But really, the cheap ones do pretty much the same thing as the expensive ones.

For bench work I use ones similar to this depending on the type of valvetrain in the head:






For on the car repairs I have a cheapie one like this that works pretty well:




Amazon has good prices on all kinds of spring compressors.

[TominMO]

My B6 head has always (since I owned it) had a bad #1 exhaust valve seal. When I get back from Madness I want to pull that head and R&R it. Do the McParts stores sell valve seals and guides (I meant guides not keepers in the previous post)? Where would I buy an actual valve itself if I needed to replace one?

[jason_]

I have a head bench that rotates 360*, and opens long enough to clamp a I6 head down. makes head work a breeze. Untighten, rotate, snug, continue. Loosen, flip, inspect, flip over again.

For valve seat grinding of 3 and 5 way, I love it.

The huge c clamp I haven't touched in years. I always use the palm twister like zanzer posted last.

Valve Springs can be nasty keeper poppers..... One spring wasn't hooked good, and then...... BBBRRRRRRRRR.... ping! Sounded like a 22 round buzzing through the air.

One keeper misplaced. Good thing it was a sbc and I have a soup can full from old tear downs!

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[Zanzer]

RockAuto has the best price on guides and probably valves too. I haven't had to buy a valve yet because I keep a ton of head cores around. Advance seems to have the best price on FelPro valve stem seals.

[jason_]

FYI, Compressed air will enable on car valve seal replacement.

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[jason_]

You might be able to save valves. Depends how much meat you grind off before they clean up. Once they get a sharp edge, they're done.

These valves are so small and cheap, buy new ones. Kenowa hooked me up @ $7 each. More meat=eats up combustion chamber cc....

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