It's not direct resistive heating though...which would probably end up in you just welding it. Or contact resistive heating, which would take FOREVER. It uses high frequency magnetic fields to essentially microwave anything conductive within its coils. It's a very controlled high energy process. I would love to figure out how to make my own, but I am confident it would probably cost more than the $500 to just buy one.
Figure out inductance of coil, find frequency to match
I cant remember the exact name of it but when i used to work in autobody we used some kind of a big induction heater all the time. It was a pretty decent size and you would roll it around on a cart and it had all different leads. It was the best thing for removing glass. It would heat the urethane enough to pry it off without burning the paint. It was quite often the only way to take those stupid torks box bolts out of ford pickups without a grinder. Could even work on bolts that went into plastic bumpers i you were careful. It was pretty sweet.
Plan A
Step one: sell car.
Step two: buy car from FL or AZ.
Done.
Plan B
Cutoff-wheel those bolts off. I think they are too far gone to bother with.
i would love to do plan A, buy since this was my first car im gonna fix em
88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
93 gl FI (sold) automagical
89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car
well guys i got one side changed over, i went for broke and tried to beak the nuts free, lucky enough i got the lower ball joint nut to come off ,but well the top one didn't want to comply
i snapped that mother sucker right in half
but at least i got it all changed over... oh and rock auto shipped me the wrong parts..well kind of the top ball joints were the right ones but the lowers were for the 2 wheel drive version of my bronco the only difference between them was the 2 wheel drive version had a longer threaded part i even broke out my micrometer to check against the old one to make sure the taper was the same, so i just lopped off the extra threads and called it a day
88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
93 gl FI (sold) automagical
89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car
im going to take a lot more pictures of the driver side when i do it, the only reason im changing them is because it really needs an alignment and i don't want any excuses form the alignment shop, surprisingly the original 30 year old ball joints were still good
88 L carb'ed (when up in flames of glory)(deceased) 4spd
89 L carb'ed (died on the operating table (rust))(deceased) 5spd
93 gl FI (sold) automagical
89 lx FI megasquirted "luna" b6D+t (186hp 209ftlbs)
88 L carbFI megasquirted zombie car
Hard to do while the part is on the car. Which is the problem in the first place.
I did it to a tie rod end on the car. Bucket 2 pieces of metal staple wire and a car battery.. But you are correct.. Most parts are difficult to do this to.
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