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Bought a B6T Turnkey!

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  • bhearts
    replied
    More methanol injection

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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  • bhazard
    replied
    FMU's are designed to be used in naturally aspirated setups I think.

    Like I said on FB you need to address the weak points before adding more power.

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  • sketchman
    replied
    FMU. It installs in the return line to raise fuel pressure under boost. It's totally mechanical, so it doesn't care what ECU you use.
    Last edited by sketchman; 04-20-2016, 08:05 AM.

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  • mikemounlio
    replied
    I hope to get time this weekend to make up something. i am going to just neck down the pipe on the inside. I want to keep the open exhaust tho.


    Any way to add more fuel with current ecu (rocketchip). Any other ways around it besides getting an all new stand alone system? I will be upgrading in the near future to a gt2554r so for now i just want to be safe for when i hit boost creep.


    If i cant add more fuel some how i might just go back to stock exhaust and be unhappily safe.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    I built one of those years ago for my mom's car (VW JETTA with stainless TT exhaust). It worked just as sketch described.

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  • sketchman
    replied
    Oooooh. Gotcha.

    Reason routing it through the outer chamber works so well is that the divider that does it reflects the sound nearly completely back on itself and into the back cap of the casing. Then it gets reflected again inside the casing before finally leaving. It's so stupid simple you wouldn't think it would work so well. But it does. I sized and numbered the holes to more than equal the cross sectional area of the pipe too, so it was not restrictive at all.

    I'll actually be making another one soon for a Yaris, so this time I will get before and after vids.
    Last edited by sketchman; 04-19-2016, 04:14 PM.

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  • bhearts
    replied
    Originally posted by sketchman View Post
    So open holes just wrapped with the steel wool? Did that work? Sounds like a glasspack without the outer casing.
    With the outer casing.

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  • sketchman
    replied
    So open holes just wrapped with the steel wool? Did that work? Sounds like a glasspack without the outer casing.

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  • bhearts
    replied
    I did one similar, except I didn't make the exhaust going into the outer chamber. I just drilled holes and wrapped it in steel wool.

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  • mikemounlio
    replied
    Originally posted by sketchman View Post
    ^Yes do that. Years ago I built a muffler on that idea. It works better than you could imagine.



    Had it on a 2.0, and it was the only muffler in the exhaust. Worked so well you would start to hear the engine up front above the exhaust above a certain RPM.

    It was like the higher pitch the sound the more it worked.
    That is just what i was thinking about.

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  • sketchman
    replied
    ^Yes do that. Years ago I built a muffler on that idea. It works better than you could imagine.



    Had it on a 2.0, and it was the only muffler in the exhaust. Worked so well you would start to hear the engine up front above the exhaust above a certain RPM.

    It was like the higher pitch the sound the more it worked.
    Last edited by sketchman; 04-19-2016, 09:32 AM.

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  • mikemounlio
    replied
    I wounder how it would work out if i made a small slip in db killer.
    something like http://www.ducati.ms/forums/77-sport...evolution.html.

    It would help increase the back pressure but still give me the open exhaust and cut down some sound.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Maybe. You'd want 2" or smaller with that short of an exhaust. I'd do the whole thing in 1.75" pipe till the outlet. The stock downpipe is like 1.75" i.d. and it's longer than your pipe and with a 2.5" exhaust and muffler (after the stock downpipe) it still crept up to 16psi in Tweak.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 04-18-2016, 11:15 PM.

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  • mikemounlio
    replied
    Could I cut a section of pipe out and replace with a neck down to 2 or 2.5" then back to my 3" outlet

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    The heat backs up and flames back through the exhaust valves during overlap. This melts the pistons like a cutting torch. Before that happens though, the exhaust heat and pressure will cause detonation as well. The b6t management runs rich. But rich isn't necessarily safe when you have a short runner exhaust manifold and a restrictive turbine. The extra unburned fuel will burn in the exhaust manifold and add to the heat, pressure issue. This problem is compounded by the fact that the compressor is now working out of its range and the inlet air temps are climbing as well.

    You must keep in mind that a turbo engine requires a fine balance of exhaust flow and pressure. This is one of the most untold stories in turbocharged performance tuning. If the exhaust manifold pressure climbs too high the engine will fail much quicker. This exhaust pressure and heat is the single most destructive force in a turbocharged engine. I've seen this overlooked on many failed engines where people assumed the boost pressure or air fuel ratios was to blame.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 04-18-2016, 10:58 PM.

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