93 festiva GL 2 automatic Not starting( ignition system ?)

[scitzz]

OOOH you didn't see the revisit, did you? Seems you get better mileage at highway speeds with the ac on! I never saw one with AC, if you look, you may be able to tell. If the belt just runs form the ac to the crank, all should be ok, someone with ac may know better.....I will get back to you on the relays, but, do you have a haynes manual? I seem to remeber they have what is basically a flow chart for this exact problem, and how to diagnose.....

[danf6975]

how expencive is it to get the actual haynes manuals? i may just have to up and buy them if i can find a place to ship them to me ( if i cant get them locally)

i think the belt is all alone for the AC but since i cant see it completely i wasnt sure. i rarely need ny speed faster than 50mph because i drive only locally so i figured taking the ac belt would reduce strain to the engine since it doesnt need to keep compressor in steady state compression

[scitzz]

haynes = about $20, and well worth it. I even have one, and would be willing to scan if I could find the wire to hook up my scanner since I moved . I net one of the mcparts stores in daytona has one, call em, they can tell ya over the phone.

[danf6975]

went to autozone to order haynes manual and it kept ordering up as $0.01 so they eventually just said screw it and put the order through. odds are that the order will cancel by the computer for some reason but if not it will be here tomorrow.

i have thought of a possible way to test the CPM by just ohm testing where the plug in connections are when i rotate the arms to see what happens,
if it is the CPM it may be cheeper to find a used one than buying a new one.

[danf6975]

OK update. got haynes manual and i see a pic ( book doesnt do much to explaine this part) where it shows testing voltage to the Ignition module

so i put my multi meter on 20vdc and with ignition on i check the DMI connector to the ignition module by sticking the positive end of probe into the dmi part to get contact and negative end on neg bat terminal.
NOTHING
check the Spout terminal in the connector and get a very very very low voltage.

so it may be something before the ignition module.


so my question is whats possible to check before then that would effect injecting the fuel as well as telling the engine to not spark.

btw i got the haynes manual for a penny at autozone because their computer screwed up and would not sell it for the regular price no matter how many times they tried

[AJ]

Hows is going man, I'm not sure but it sounds like the same problem I had a couple years ago on my 93 manual festy. I would be driving and all of a sudden it would shut off. It would crank, but wouldn't start. Then all of a sudden it would start again and be fine. This happen to me for about two weeks,(it would shut off,and start). Then came the moment where it never started again, but it would crank.

Sounded like I wasn't getting any spark. Changed the coil, spark plugs,wires, fuel pump, changed and checked fuses ,ect. And nothing. After spending a couple of $$$, and getting nowhere. I was getting ready to take it to a shop and spend more $$$$ because it sounded like an electrical problem.

(which it was)

For some reason at the last minute, I decide to check all my electrical plugs underneath the dash. I found one that looked liked it was plugged or hooked, but not all the way in. As soon as I plug it and heard it lock into place my car started and its been running fine ever since.

The plug I'm talking about is right underneath / or behind the dash. If you follow the hood lever cable from the inside. Your going to see several plug connections(white in color). Just squeeze them together to make sure their properly plug all the way. The one that was not plugged all the way on mine was the one thats about two inches long and has about 16 small wires going to the plug.

I hope this will help you. :idea:

[kzbill]

Fusible link is my first choice

[MeeMo]

So was there any final resolution to this?

[funky technician]

Fusible link is my first choice

me too

[danf6975]

finally found the thread.

lost my browser and favorites and stuff so been a while.

turns out that it was the CPM inside/ under the cap, rotor

just ran into a new problem. while picking my son up at school i start the car and get a squeeling noise car turns over but then dies and i smell a little bit of what smells like burned rubber.

so i try it again for a shorter time.

does that sound like the timing belt?

[stefan]

I cant quite tell from your description, did it turn over once, now its completely dead (not turning over) or dose it still turn over? If the battery is dead the alternator belt is probably finished/slipping, which let the battery go dead.
Or if there is still power, it may be the timing belt. Take off the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns, if it dosent, your timing belt snapped, if it turns, you belt MAY have jumped. Take the timing belt cover off and check the timing.

[danf6975]

actually i went back to school and popped the hood and took a look at the alternator belt because i smelt rubber.

the belt was new since when i got the CPM fixed the mechanic without asking replaced it with a new one ( 10 bucks)

well guess what. the belt is fine and on the pulley but the pully is now grinding against the plastic housing that protects the timing belt

[danf6975]

oh btw that digital cluster looks awesome