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**scitzz** · 03-26-2008, 11:31 PM

Me, I would go with the factory marks.....The belt may have jumped, or had someone work on it miss the "mark", so to speak....

**Icedawg** · 03-27-2008, 09:37 AM

I'm with Scitzz1 on this, the factory marks are most likely to be correct,and someone probably got it wrong at some point. Off by one would be down on power but still seem to run OK for many engines.
The seal you forget the name of behind the crank pulley is the crank seal. That is a likely culprit, but you said the leak was above that. Hope it is not the oil pump gasket. A general rule is oil never goes up, but it might from the spinning of the crank.

**jglutz** · 03-27-2008, 11:10 AM

A GREAT PRACTICE FOR ALL TIMING BELTS

When ever the timing is not in question but needs to be removed; and, prior to removing the belt.

Take a marker (paint type preferred) and place a line from the timing belt to the cam shaft sprocket. Then place a line from the timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket.

Remove the timing belt as required.

Transfers the marks from the old belt to the new one

Re-install the new belt with the marks on the belt alligned with those on the sprockets.

Nothing to double check....works every time.

Works great for chains to.

This was taught to me years agoand it has never failed me when ever I remember to use it.

I always turn the crank to TDC when marking the belt. I use two set of marks top and bottom...One's on the factory allignment marks and one's in some other convenient place.

**Levitan** · 03-27-2008, 09:34 PM

Got to work on it for about 30 minutes tonight. Dropped the oil pan, removed tire and inner fender well, and got the outer pulley off (the one held on with 4-10 mm bolts). I'm going to change the oil pump gasket while I'm doing this, I don't want to tear it apart twice.

Wish I would have thought about your timing belt marks, jg...good idea for next time!!
I knew the answers to the timing marks, but I was so tired last night, I couldn't think straight.

It was one tooth off.

That answers some other questions, IceDawg. It didn't have the get up and go like Levistiva has, but then again, I didn't push her real hard because I knew she was pukin' oil. I noticed going up hills it was weak. Weak, no missing, tapping, or knocking, though. It was idling low at stops. When I got it to my mechanic buddy, it was idling low, so he tried to idle it up, but maxed out on the idle screw. I then looked at the throttle cable adjustment and it was maxed out, or minimized to the end...not sure which way, but it was screwed all the way to one end.

So, I'm guessing here because I have a minute to get my thoughts out on cyber-paper, but here's what I think. I bet the car is timed to the book, but with the cam being off one tooth, the timing has been retarded (that just looks funny!!) so the idle has been maxed up as far as possible to compensate...and it's still not enough. That's why it idle so low at a stop.

On to the next set of drama that I need to vent. There is no flippin' room between the pulleys and the frame! What do you usually use to get the big bolt out of the crankshaft? I know a 1/2" drive 21mm wouldn't fit! I'm going to see if a 21mm wrench will fit tomorrow. I was super pressed for time tonight, I had a Union meeting to attend, so I really didn't have time to do squat.

By 1 pm Saturday, this blue car has to be running and all systems check or I'm taking Levistiva to Ozark....which means I'll be having to get her a makeover. The blue car just looks so much better! I'm kinda curious to see how much the Law appreciates my blacked out windows.

If...no, no, no,...WHEN this blue car makes it's debut at Ozark, I will be so flippin' proud! I have pictures of what I'm doing. I have them on photobucket, but I'm only going to post them if I accomplish my goals. Then I'll post them as a reward to myself, but sharing them with my colleagues here on ff.com ... the best damn bunch of people and site that I've ever dealt with!

**m715** · 03-27-2008, 09:46 PM

Drop the engine down on that side enough to access the bolt from the inner fender. You can lower it supporting it from either above, or below if you are really careful not to dent you oil pan. I kinda like using an engine hoist, but I mostly have been lucky and had early engines you did not have to remove the crank bolt on to get the pulley off when I had to do that one time under less than ideal conditions. Complicates things with the larger crank engines. BTW, watch not to over tighten those bolts on the pulley. IMO, they really should have been a little stronger bolts.
Michael

**freshtiva** · 03-27-2008, 09:47 PM

You may regret messing with the oil pan gasket. I replaced one once before an engine swap just because I thought I should. I shouldnt have. Three trys later I got it sealed. Real PITA and it probably didnt need to be done in the first place.

**freshtiva** · 03-27-2008, 09:54 PM

"On to the next set of drama that I need to vent. There is no flippin' room between the pulleys and the frame! What do you usually use to get the big bolt out of the crankshaft? I know a 1/2" drive 21mm wouldn't fit! I'm going to see if a 21mm wrench will fit tomorrow"

Loosen the nuts on the motor mount on the same side as the crankshaft pulley and lower the motor some. Then you can get a socket on it. Harder if there is A/C. The metric crank bolt is a size that also has a standard equivalent.

**m715** · 03-27-2008, 09:54 PM

Unless I truly knew for a fact that it was the pan, I agree..... I made the mistake of trying a new rubber gasket too, and ended up making a 2 stage gasket from silicone to get it stopped. Turned out that the leak was from the corner on the head gasket. Crate engine took care of that, but Shtinky stuck for his name.
Michael

**scitzz** · 03-28-2008, 12:04 AM

First time I took mine off, I did not lower the engine, but that was so long ago, I THINK I used a wrench, or maybe it was a breaker bar on the socket, that takes up a gnats whiskers less space.
Geesh, I wish I could remeber....

I lower the engine and hit it with an impact gun anymore, less hassle in the long run!

**nonamekid** · 03-28-2008, 08:24 AM

The cam seal could still be the culprit. I had one leaking a lot of oil and it seemed to come from in the middle of the front of the engine, but it ended up being the cam seal. The oil would run down till the water pump got it, and then it would get spun all over the place by the water pump and the timing belt. My can seal had come completely out and was up against the gear. I couldn't tell it was bad till I pulled the cam gear off.

**scitzz** · 03-28-2008, 10:04 AM

If you are taking off the timing belt, just replace ALL the seals while you are at it, thats my vote

**jglutz** · 03-28-2008, 11:06 AM

Originally posted by freshtiva

"On to the next set of drama that I need to vent. There is no flippin' room between the pulleys and the frame! What do you usually use to get the big bolt out of the crankshaft? I know a 1/2" drive 21mm wouldn't fit! I'm going to see if a 21mm wrench will fit tomorrow"

this is the type of tool I use for the 21mm hex; much thinner head profile; use it to break loose then wrench it the rest of the way

OIL PAN.....It took me 4 gaskets and a new pan to figure it out after I reinstalled the block....A MUST READ

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http://www.fordfestiva.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15289

**freshtiva** · 03-28-2008, 03:31 PM

^ I was quoting Levitan.

**jglutz** · 03-28-2008, 06:21 PM

^sorry my bad..as always I am humble and gracious to all who tolerate my mistakes....reading....typing...and...opinions in general

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I need some mechanical input , please

I need some mechanical input , please

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