Project: Get my car Driving Again.

[FB71]

primary and secondary resistance don't give an accurate representation of avaiable secondary voltage.

[collegeboi]

i will take pictures of my plugs and yes i will try and get a spark tester becuse it will be needed in the future.

[collegeboi]

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?CategoryCode=3390

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&Keyword=spark%20tester&KeywordCat=Spark+Tester+-+Power+Equipment&VehCode=N

Hers links to spark testers but im lost. Do i get an ignition spark tester. lmk which one looks best.

Heres pix of my spark plugs.

[Ogrestiva]

There is a lot of corrosion on them, one of them looks burnt out, so I would replace them. Remember they are 20 years old, but you could clean them off with a paper towel, just make sure the white ceramic cylinder on the top under the metal "sparking" side is not creaked when you put it back in, and that the metal is still intact. If you have a Haynes or Chilton manual it should have cleaning instructions and what faulty plugs look like.

[collegeboi]

not 20 years old, more like 3 months old. how can you tell they are corroded???

autolites are the generic brand, heard boush? sucks, what brands are you guys using,

should i get spark plugs 1st, or the tester?

[Ogrestiva]

not 20 years old, more like 3 months old. how can you tell they are corroded???

The ceramic under the metal is black. If the ceramic is that corroded after 3 months there might be other problems with oil in the engine or it could be a response to the fuel problems you've been having.

[collegeboi]

So this could be causing the stalling?
Seriously lost.

So what should i do now?

[rbrown]

The ceramic under the metal is black. If the ceramic is that corroded after 3 months there might be other problems with oil in the engine or it could be a response to the fuel problems you've been having.

I have to chime in. Those plugs look fine. There isn't even much wear on the tips. There is a little carbon (too much fuel) on the ceramic at the tip but it isn't bad.

Those are a standard Copper Core plug. They do not last as long a Platinum or better yet Double Platinum. But they are still good. 3000 miles, plenty of life.

But I will add a quick tune up of all the components is always a good thing to rule out. And the rough running is different than what was decribed earlier. Rugh running is almost always spark/timimg related.

Wow I wish you were closer.

[collegeboi]

Lol by rough running i mean it dies in a few mins rather then quickly, yes i wish that to man lol

well still lost at the moment.

[MONSOON]

When you replaced the plugs, did you replace cap, rotor and wires as well? Even then it is entirely possible to still have a bad plug wire or wires.

[wrestler3025]

NGK's V powers work well for our engines. Just do a seach on spark plugs and you will see, that most ( not all ) use the NGK's. I had bosch platnums when I first got the car and they sucked. I switched to the NGK's, and they worked much better.

And I second what Monsoon just said. I've had a bad set of brand new wires.

[collegeboi]

No i did not replace cap and rotors ( dont know what they are)

but what i am trying to say is that the car would die completely but after spraying carb cleaner all over, it started to run for 5 minths then die out again.

That is why i am guessing vac leak.

if i am wrong lmk.

[MONSOON]

Please tell me youve gotten a Haynes manual? It will give you basic tune up tips. If youre not sure when it was properly tuned up last you should just go ahead and replace cap ,rotor and wires. If youre not sure what they are look at the things that were stuck to the spark plugs. Trace those to where they plug into something else. Thats the cap. Underneath when you remove the cap is the rotor.
If it were a vacuum leak it the idle would have changed as you were spraying it. Unless of course you were spraying it while it wasnt running. In which case you shouldnt have heard a change in idle speed.

[mattswabb]

see pics below then go out and check yours. Remove cap, rotor is inside. Leave the wires connected and be sure to put the rotor back exactly as you removed it. It can go in 3 different ways so be sure not to put it back on wrong.

Look at these 2 parts for corrosion inside and for damage. Any moisture and corrosion will affect them. If they look bad then replace them or even sand the terminals inside and the rotor end. Also are your spark plug wires good?

http://www.partsamerica.com/Default.aspx

Rotor

Cap

[collegeboi]

Please tell me youve gotten a Haynes manual? It will give you basic tune up tips. If youre not sure when it was properly tuned up last you should just go ahead and replace cap ,rotor and wires. If youre not sure what they are look at the things that were stuck to the spark plugs. Trace those to where they plug into something else. Thats the cap. Underneath when you remove the cap is the rotor.
If it were a vacuum leak it the idle would have changed as you were spraying it. Unless of course you were spraying it while it wasnt running. In which case you shouldnt have heard a change in idle speed.

LOL i love this guy, very cocky but got stuff to back it up. wish you were near me so we could go a few rounds :p