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Front Hub and Rotor removal from Steering Knuckle

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  • Front Hub and Rotor removal from Steering Knuckle

    I am in the process of changing my front wheel bearings and I cannot figure out how to remove the rotor and hub from the steering knuckle. There are 4 bolts that holds the rotor and hub onto the steering knuckle but you cannot fit a socket on the head because half of the bolt head is hidden under the steering knuckle.

    I work in a fabrication and machine shop and the head machinest told me that he could possibly fabricate a new spacer that goes in between the bearings or machine down the original in case it has to be done.

    I was trying to get a head start on dissassembling this component so my machinest can press the old bearings out and press the new ones in.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    1991 Ford Festiva
    The BEST CAR I have EVER owned!!!
    With the current gas prices, EVERYONE wants a FESTIVA!!!

  • #2
    You need to remove the steering knuckle/hub assembly as a unit from the car to have the hub pressed out of the knuckle THEN you can get to the bolts that hold the rotor to the hub.

    Comment


    • #3
      i just used a large hammer... or if you have one, a slide hammer will work ON the car (no knuckle removal).
      Trees aren't kind to me...

      currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
      94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

      Comment


      • #4
        Somewhere on the forum a member posted a picture of a homemade puller with a chain or something. I tried a search on "front hub removal" but got nothing but this thread. I wonder how it is listed?

        Comment


        • #5
          ^^I think this is what you are talking about
          "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
          89L Silver EFI auto
          91GL Green Auto DD
          There ain't no rest for the wicked
          until we close our eyes for good.
          I will sleep when I die!
          I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

          Comment


          • #6
            That's it. Good thread too.

            Comment


            • #7
              I finally got the hub & rotor off the car but now I'm trying to seperate the hub & rotor. I'm trying to remove the 4-14mm bolts that hold them 2 together but they're rusted badly. My rotor is STUCK onto my hub (passenger side). I tried to SOAK the 14mm bolts with PB to remove them so I can seperate the hub & rotor but the bolts will NOT come loose!! They are now stripped to a 13mm size!! Any suggestions?? Thanks!

              Comment


              • #8
                heat cures all! get a torch (acetylene) and get it cherry. then zip them out with an impact gun.
                Trees aren't kind to me...

                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'd wait a littel before you "zip" them of with an impact, being that hot you may break the bolt head off completely.
                  ---------------------------------------------------
                  The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
                  ---------------------------------------------------
                  BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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                  • #10
                    well to clarify, you are NOT to get the bolt cherry, but the area around the threads in the hub itself. the heat will expand the hole and (hopefuly) the bolts should stay a bit cooler thus giving you the clearance to zip them out.
                    Trees aren't kind to me...

                    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      just using an impact anyway will make a world of difference on removal. The way they chunk along under load usually breaks loose the most stubborn bolts.
                      "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                      89L Silver EFI auto
                      91GL Green Auto DD
                      There ain't no rest for the wicked
                      until we close our eyes for good.
                      I will sleep when I die!
                      I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks everyone! I finally got them off!! Now, I replaced my old rotors with new one's. I also installed brand spanking new brake pads! Here's the problem.. I can't seem to get the new brake pads to fit over the new rotor. The caliper is completely open but it's still slightly too tight with the new pads (about 2mm too thick). Any suggestions with be much appreciated. Thanks again.

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                        • #13
                          ^^something is off....there should be plenty of room if the piston is fully compressed. Plus you will need to slid the caliper on the slide pins to the right position
                          "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                          89L Silver EFI auto
                          91GL Green Auto DD
                          There ain't no rest for the wicked
                          until we close our eyes for good.
                          I will sleep when I die!
                          I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by GenevaDirt View Post
                            ^^something is off....there should be plenty of room if the piston is fully compressed. Plus you will need to slid the caliper on the slide pins to the right position
                            What exactly do you mean by that?? Don't the pins only go on one way? You are talking about the two pins that hold the pads onto the caliper, right? Thanks again.

                            Comment

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