Originally posted by Fez
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The Saga of Mr. Clinton Festiva... Please help
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Originally posted by Mike McKown View PostIf you get engine "run on" after the ignition is switched off, that's an indication your throttle plate is open and is allowing fuel to be drawn into the engine and being ignited by a hot combustion chamber. Find out what is holding your throttle open and you may fix your fast idle and your run on problem.
i will check into whats holding the throttle open.
The fan temperature control switch is on the thermostat housing, just behind the top radiator hose connection. Unhook the hardshell from the switch and the fan should turn on with the key "on".
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I concur with Fez on this one. Before you mess around with electrical stuff too much, double check all vacuum hose connections. Can't imagine how changing the pcv would cause them to mess with vac hoses, but you never know what they may have knocked out/loose messing around in there. I doubt the jumped fuse has anything to do with anything, or, again, changing the oil and pcv valve would not effect it. Double check vacuum hoses! Check all the way, including around the charcoal cannister. If your vac is messed up, all the tweaking the idle will accomplish nothing.
1988 L - 232K miles BatstivaDumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.
1989 L - 247K miles Slick
1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:
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Originally posted by batstiva View PostI concur with Fez on this one. Before you mess around with electrical stuff too much, double check all vacuum hose connections. Can't imagine how changing the pcv would cause them to mess with vac hoses, but you never know what they may have knocked out/loose messing around in there. I doubt the jumped fuse has anything to do with anything, or, again, changing the oil and pcv valve would not effect it. Double check vacuum hoses! Check all the way, including around the charcoal cannister. If your vac is messed up, all the tweaking the idle will accomplish nothing.
clinton
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Well all of a sudden i have got my car running pretty good. I would say 77%. I have fixed the electrical problem(atleast temporarily) and When i shift and hammer on the gas, i have no problems. However now when i barely push on the gas, for the first inch, it has a slight hesitation or cutting out. Nothing as crazy as it used to be but maybe a spark plug is fowling. Any suggestions for a diagnosis?
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Originally posted by clintorino View PostWell all of a sudden i have got my car running pretty good. I would say 77%. I have fixed the electrical problem(atleast temporarily) and When i shift and hammer on the gas, i have no problems. However now when i barely push on the gas, for the first inch, it has a slight hesitation or cutting out. Nothing as crazy as it used to be but maybe a spark plug is fowling. Any suggestions for a diagnosis?
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I concur in that this has earmarks of a vacuum leak.http://www.cardomain.com/id/hawkdoc60
01 Chevy Impala 9C1 police package "Unnamed yet". 154K
88 LX 5 speed "Silver PHOENIX" Currently being rebuilt inside and out. 400K
88 L 4 speed "Cherry Bomb" saved from the car crusher just in time. 186K
06 Ford F-150 Pickup Replacement for my 2001 Impala Cop Car that lunched its engine.
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Well, after putting a lot of time and effort into diagnosing the vacuum issue, I took it to a shop and they said that it was running back and fourth between 4 to 3 cylinders because of problems the ignition was causing. They said that it was making the plugs and the wires bad... and it would eventually get down to working only 2 cylinders = will not run. They wanted to charge me $450 to fix... Is it worth it? Also if I just changed the plugs and wires would this work as a temporary solution or wouldn't it have any effect on the situation. Please let me know what you think.
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I wouldnt think that just because the car isnt running on one cylinder sometimes that it would cause the wires to go bad. Guess it could foul a plug. How did they explain they would fix the ignition problem for $450 ?sigpic
The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
Link to my festiva pictures below
https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.
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^^ I don't think he knows yet what they're actually wanting to do. It sounds to me like they just want to change stuff, and see if the problem goes away. Without really diagnosing it. Just my opinion, tho. Guess we'll see when he actually goes in and they tell him what they want to do.
1988 L - 232K miles BatstivaDumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.
1989 L - 247K miles Slick
1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:
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They said i needed a major tune up. They said that there were no vacuum leaks. What i need to do is after having the Diagnostics done, i needed to replace Plugs, wires, Dist Cap, Rotor and fuel filter. They said that after i had that fixed, it should not hesitate anymore. Does this sound about right in order to fix the hesititation issue?? So before agreeing, I changed the plugs and wires myself, however it is still hesitating (sort of feels like its hesitating a little more than before) . Anyways, So should i have the dist cap and rotor replaced? How would this change its performance in regards to severe hesitation when i am not hammering on the gas every time i shift the car?
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Today i popped off the air filter box to take a look at my carb and discovered that between the carb and the firewall, there was a Bare "T-connection" on a vacuum line. I looked around and around for a hose that looked like it should be connected to it but nothing was found. What should i do? Cover it up with tape? leave it incovered? Let me know what you think. I took a picture but i do not know how to post it.
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