Accelerator pump diaphragm? There is no exploded view for the accelorator pump on autozone nor do i know where to locate it. Is there a way to see if it is functioning correctly?
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Originally posted by clintorino View PostAccelerator pump diaphragm? There is no exploded view for the accelorator pump on autozone nor do i know where to locate it. Is there a way to see if it is functioning correctly?
I confused you. Go back to Auto Zone and type distributor cap/rotor/ in "search" and see what you come up with.
The accelerator pump is inside the carburetor and should be part of a carburetor rebuild kit. If that's what causes your hesitation, I believe I'd have somebody knowledgable looking over my shoulder while you work on the carb.
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Originally posted by clintorino View PostI have to admit, i do not know anything in regards to the distributer cap, rotor and button and how they work, what is why i am hesitating to replace it myself. In addition, do you believe this would be the cause of my hesitations? I am still hell bent on it being a vacuum issue.
A good way to not lose little screws is to put a paper towel or a rag under the screw you are removing, so the screw can't fall too far. Also get a telescoping magnetic pickup tool. Saved my butt many times.
Once you've done it, it's super-easy after that. Maybe find a mechanically-inclined friend to do it with you the first time?Last edited by TominMO; 08-11-2009, 03:48 PM.90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand
Disaster preparedness
Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info
Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!
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Haven't changed the button on my new one, but Batstiva's had no retaining screws. Just popped on-popped off. 88L
1988 L - 232K miles BatstivaDumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.
1989 L - 247K miles Slick
1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:
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corrosion on the metal terminal and on the inside of the cap that where the contacts are. Could be bad wires??"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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When you had the cap off, there was no corrosion/ oil on the contacts?
1988 L - 232K miles BatstivaDumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.
1989 L - 247K miles Slick
1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:
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there was some oil on the bottom edge of the cap (where it would gather and pool caused by gravity). I cleaned it out. I also saw a little greenish corrosion on the middle cap connection on the inside. I didnt have a wire brush with me to remove it. Do you think this may be causing the issue?
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Originally posted by clintorino View Postthere was some oil on the bottom edge of the cap (where it would gather and pool caused by gravity). I cleaned it out. I also saw a little greenish corrosion on the middle cap connection on the inside. I didnt have a wire brush with me to remove it. Do you think this may be causing the issue?90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand
Disaster preparedness
Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info
Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!
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Originally posted by TominMO View PostCould be. Whenever I change out parts I keep the old ones (if they worked at all) as emergency spares. One way to check plug wires if you think one is bad, for example, is to turn off the motor and pull off one of them, start the motor and see if there is a change. If it runs worse, that one was good. If there is no change, that's a bad one. Repeat with the other three.
Are you sure you got the wires back on right? If you have oil getting in the cap that much then you may want to try finding a new seal...or replace the cap and make sure it seals good. You could be getting moisture in there and that is not good."FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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Originally posted by clintorino View Postyou are referring to pullling the spark plug wires from the engine or from the dist cap? They are all new plugs and wires, so would this matter or what are you trying to test?"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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So if i pulll a plug wire from the engine while its running and it starts running worse, taht means its ok. right? So then to put the plug wire back on should i turn off the car first or should i just slap it on. Wouldnt there be an arch from the plug as i attempted to place the wire on it again?
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