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  • #16
    Accelerator pump diaphragm? There is no exploded view for the accelorator pump on autozone nor do i know where to locate it. Is there a way to see if it is functioning correctly?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by clintorino View Post
      Accelerator pump diaphragm? There is no exploded view for the accelorator pump on autozone nor do i know where to locate it. Is there a way to see if it is functioning correctly?


      I confused you. Go back to Auto Zone and type distributor cap/rotor/ in "search" and see what you come up with.

      The accelerator pump is inside the carburetor and should be part of a carburetor rebuild kit. If that's what causes your hesitation, I believe I'd have somebody knowledgable looking over my shoulder while you work on the carb.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by clintorino View Post
        I have to admit, i do not know anything in regards to the distributer cap, rotor and button and how they work, what is why i am hesitating to replace it myself. In addition, do you believe this would be the cause of my hesitations? I am still hell bent on it being a vacuum issue.
        "Rotor" and "rotor button" mean the same thing; just local usage. It's what spins around inside the distributor, distributing the electricity from the cap (via the coil wire) to the various spark plug wires. On some cars, rotors just pop on and off, held on by friction. On other cars, there will be a retaining screw to remove (and not lose!). I just got into Festys a little while ago, and have never changed a rotor on one, so IDK which type is on them. Someone here will chime in tho.

        A good way to not lose little screws is to put a paper towel or a rag under the screw you are removing, so the screw can't fall too far. Also get a telescoping magnetic pickup tool. Saved my butt many times.

        Once you've done it, it's super-easy after that. Maybe find a mechanically-inclined friend to do it with you the first time?
        Last edited by TominMO; 08-11-2009, 03:48 PM.
        90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
        09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

        You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

        Disaster preparedness

        Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

        Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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        • #19
          Haven't changed the button on my new one, but Batstiva's had no retaining screws. Just popped on-popped off. 88L

          Dumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.

          1988 L - 232K miles Batstiva
          1989 L - 247K miles Slick
          1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
          Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:

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          • #20
            I removed my dist cap and noticed some type of oil on the bottom part of the dist cap. I cleaned it out, but is this a problem? I also popped out my button (with ease) but what would i be looking for in regards to a faulty button?

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            • #21
              corrosion on the metal terminal and on the inside of the cap that where the contacts are. Could be bad wires??
              "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
              89L Silver EFI auto
              91GL Green Auto DD
              There ain't no rest for the wicked
              until we close our eyes for good.
              I will sleep when I die!
              I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

              Comment


              • #22
                i just had the wires replaced. I did not really see any corrosion. If there was, would i just wire brush it off or what?

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                • #23
                  When you had the cap off, there was no corrosion/ oil on the contacts?

                  Dumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.

                  1988 L - 232K miles Batstiva
                  1989 L - 247K miles Slick
                  1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
                  Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    there was some oil on the bottom edge of the cap (where it would gather and pool caused by gravity). I cleaned it out. I also saw a little greenish corrosion on the middle cap connection on the inside. I didnt have a wire brush with me to remove it. Do you think this may be causing the issue?

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by clintorino View Post
                      there was some oil on the bottom edge of the cap (where it would gather and pool caused by gravity). I cleaned it out. I also saw a little greenish corrosion on the middle cap connection on the inside. I didnt have a wire brush with me to remove it. Do you think this may be causing the issue?
                      Could be. Whenever I change out parts I keep the old ones (if they worked at all) as emergency spares. One way to check plug wires if you think one is bad, for example, is to turn off the motor and pull off one of them, start the motor and see if there is a change. If it runs worse, that one was good. If there is no change, that's a bad one. Repeat with the other three.
                      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                      09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                      You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                      Disaster preparedness

                      Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                      Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                        Could be. Whenever I change out parts I keep the old ones (if they worked at all) as emergency spares. One way to check plug wires if you think one is bad, for example, is to turn off the motor and pull off one of them, start the motor and see if there is a change. If it runs worse, that one was good. If there is no change, that's a bad one. Repeat with the other three.
                        haha....no need to turn it off....be brave...if it gets you it is only a little jolt. You can use pliers and they make a wire puller if you really want to get it....pull while running and you will be able to tell right away.

                        Are you sure you got the wires back on right? If you have oil getting in the cap that much then you may want to try finding a new seal...or replace the cap and make sure it seals good. You could be getting moisture in there and that is not good.
                        "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                        89L Silver EFI auto
                        91GL Green Auto DD
                        There ain't no rest for the wicked
                        until we close our eyes for good.
                        I will sleep when I die!
                        I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          you are referring to pullling the spark plug wires from the engine or from the dist cap? They are all new plugs and wires, so would this matter or what are you trying to test?

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                          • #28
                            I know this may sound silly but did you check your oil after they changed it? I had a escort gt that a local place changed my oil..And put 1.5 Qts too many...

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by clintorino View Post
                              you are referring to pullling the spark plug wires from the engine or from the dist cap? They are all new plugs and wires, so would this matter or what are you trying to test?
                              if you are asking me...I was just responding to Toms post....he may be thinking that you are not running on all cylinders. But if you were to do what is suggested...it would not matter which area you pulled them from....just need to break the connection to see if the way it is running changes or not. If there is no change when you pull one of the wires....then you have an issue with that cylinder.
                              "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                              89L Silver EFI auto
                              91GL Green Auto DD
                              There ain't no rest for the wicked
                              until we close our eyes for good.
                              I will sleep when I die!
                              I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                So if i pulll a plug wire from the engine while its running and it starts running worse, taht means its ok. right? So then to put the plug wire back on should i turn off the car first or should i just slap it on. Wouldnt there be an arch from the plug as i attempted to place the wire on it again?

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