Dreaded linkage problem

[MONSOON]

Soak it down with PB Blast now and it may not be so bad.

[m715]

Or just count on that bolt being toast. i really hate to see that! You may want to consider sacrificing the nut so the bolt can be salvaged if you have to. It really looks like it could snap even with the penetrating oil. I have one of the assemblies here, and maybe I can look to see what the size of the bolt is, and if it has a special sized shank before the threads or somrthing specialized like that.

[m715]

Here are a couple of pictures for reference:
I just tried to pull the bolt on this shifter, and it is going to take some time to get IT loose!
I will try again tommorow when I get back in here at the shop in the morning.

Michael

[m715]

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't there a roller bearing setup inside that joint?

[doylerl]

Well, if there is, I think I can safely say, mine is shot!

[skimsucka]

Or just count on that bolt being toast. i really hate to see that! You may want to consider sacrificing the nut so the bolt can be salvaged if you have to. It really looks like it could snap even with the penetrating oil. I have one of the assemblies here, and maybe I can look to see what the size of the bolt is, and if it has a special sized shank before the threads or somrthing specialized like that.

Yes at hardware store I couldn't find a bolt with the exact shafted length on it like the stock shafts. They were either to short or too long Save The Bolt!

[doylerl]

If I can't find something to work, I guess I can always use the stick off of partstiva. I just didn't want a hole in the floor for the critters to climb through.

[hofficergrover]

i didn't reuse the old one i put a new bolt didn't have the end like the original and mine works great.

[GenevaDirt]

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't there a roller bearing setup inside that joint?

no roller bearing....it is the bolt and bushings. It is a special bolt that fits through and then the nut stops in the proper place once tightened. But if you have to you can use another bolt...but you will want something like a nylon lock nut so it will stay in place when tightened.

[m715]

Here are pics of it disassembled. IIRC the two bushings are Mazda PN B001-46-062, same as on the other end of the shift rod at the transaxle. The roller bearing I was thinking of is on the stabilizer bar at the transaxle.

HTH
Michael

[doylerl]

I ended up going to Lowe's and got a 1/4" bolt, with a 1.5" spacer that made it 3/8", and a lock nut. It has made a huge difference, but it still has a little more slop than my '89 4spd. I have included some pictures. I know, it's rusty and messy...
New bushings for Ford (part # E7GZ-7A133-A):

New bushings installed under stick:

Bushings at trans.:

Is there supposed to be a gap here? It is messy like it had been leaking for a while, but I am not sure if that is it leaking or just running down onto it. Any suggestions?

[JohnGunn]

Is there supposed to be a gap here? It is messy like it had been leaking for a while, but I am not sure if that is it leaking or just running down onto it. Any suggestions?

Yes that gap is supposed to be there. It acts as a weep hole for oil that manages to leak past the rear engine seal.

Only way to tell where all that oil is coming from is to clean it up and watch it every day for as long as it takes to find the source. The distributor is located on the engine directly above the rear engine seal, so it is very possible that much of the oil could be coming from a bad o-ring on the distributor. Certainly check that before replacing the seal.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA