trans problems

[bakerga1969]

1 worn or improperly adjusted linkage
2 tranaxle loose on engine
3 shift linkage not work freely,binds
4 input gear bearing retainer broken or loose
5 foreign material between clutch cover and engine housing
6 worn shift fork
7 damaged or worn constant mesh gears
8 damaged or worn synchronizers
9 damaged fourth speed gear or output gear
10 worn or damaged idler gear or bushing
11 low trans fluid.

[bakerga1969]

If you need trans try www.used-auto-parts-locator.com they can find anything and its got a warranty

[roycehof]

Hello, - From your description this seems to be the input shaft bearing. These transmissions are known for this and it is usually the first thing to wear out (if not abused). I have a 4 speed in excellent condition that I bought when my 5 speed went bad a couple of years ago. I recently installed new input shaft bearing (even though it was not very worn) just to make sure if I sold it to anybody it would be good for another 15 or 20 years. I can sell you this transmission for $200 plus whatever it cost to send this to you. This is not a junkyard trans but basically a rebuild. Let me know. I can have it shipped out in a matter of a day or two. One thing to let you know, and this is not to scare you, but most of the Festivas in the junkyard (if not wrecked) have bad transmission - trust me I found this out the hard way. If you do buy one from a junk yard make sure the input shaft is tight (no play) also make sure that the spider gears don't drop out from spinning the transmission without axles in it. Two transmission I went to get at a yard had the spider gears dislodged inside and were not usable without a total rebuild. They should have at least one axle (or dowel rod) in the case when you get it or else odds are the spider gears have become dislodged. If you don't plan on keeping the car, a junkyard trans may get you by. If you plan on keeping the car I will sell you the one I have - just PM with your information. The last option is that you can send it to me and I will rebuild it for you, but I think that will cost you more in the long run. Good Luck whichever way you choose.

[grey]

Hello, - , make sure that the spider gears don't drop out from spinning the transmission without axles in it. Two transmission I went to get at a yard had the spider gears dislodged inside and were not usable without a total rebuild. They should have at least one axle (or dowel rod) in the case when you get it or else odds are the spider gears have become dislodged. .

okay I am ignorant. I have a engine/transmission hanging from an oak tree. How do i know if the spider gears dislodged? Is it okay to crank the engine now, or is that what causes this? (I hope not!)

Also how to check the input shaft bearing?

[MTec007]

If you do buy one from a junk yard make sure the input shaft is tight (no play) also make sure that the spider gears don't drop out from spinning the transmission without axles in it. Two transmission I went to get at a yard had the spider gears dislodged inside and were not usable without a total rebuild. They should have at least one axle (or dowel rod) in the case when you get it or else odds are the spider gears have become dislodged.

I replaced the CV shafts about the end of december, could something have gone wrong then to be causing this issue now?

[roycehof]

Regarding the spider gears - they are in the differential and if they fall out, the trans tends to lock up (the spider gears tend to find a binding location). It is kind of hard to explain unless you have seen the insides. Basically, if you just pull out an axle and re-install it, you should be O.K. I just wouldn't spin the input shaft without making sure there is something in the axle holes to prevent them from possibly getting shifted out of their proper position. As far as the input shaft, when the bearings are worn the shaft will move in and out and usually the outer bearing picks up play side to side. First side of the bearing being worn out is fourth gear popping out of gear.
I have rebuilt 3 of these transmissions so far and all have had bad input shaft bearings. One was driven so long with the gear popping out that the balls in the bearing fell out and got lodged in the differential. All had noise in neutral that went away with the clutch pushed prior to the failures. Last rebuild kit I bought for these trans was a little over a hundred bucks and it takes about 6 hours to do one of these correctly and quite a few speciality tools for setting bearing preloads and verifying proper clearances. When done correctly these trans should be good for a couple hundred thousand miles. You should use Mercon ATF in these. If you go the yard to get a trans and regular gear oil comes out - stay away (many shop put gear oil in when they hear the initial noise of the worn input bearings). Hope my experience is helpful to you.

[grey]

Yes it is helpful to me and I think it answered the original poster question as well

I brought in a an engine/transmission and checked compression. I did not think to use the clutch. I did not think about any of this.

There were no unusual sounds, I hope it is OK. When the snow melts, I will find a broom stick or something...

[grey]

. You should use Mercon ATF in these. If you go the yard to get a trans and regular gear oil comes out - stay away (many shop put gear oil in when they hear the initial noise of the worn input bearings). Hope my experience is helpful to you.

The spec for the F-series in the 323/Protege is multi-V/90 wt.... unless you live in cold climate. That is what I have been using, but GL-4 is hard to find

[MTec007]

Regarding the spider gears - they are in the differential and if they fall out, the trans tends to lock up (the spider gears tend to find a binding location). It is kind of hard to explain unless you have seen the insides. Basically, if you just pull out an axle and re-install it, you should be O.K. I just wouldn't spin the input shaft without making sure there is something in the axle holes to prevent them from possibly getting shifted out of their proper position. As far as the input shaft, when the bearings are worn the shaft will move in and out and usually the outer bearing picks up play side to side. First side of the bearing being worn out is fourth gear popping out of gear.
I have rebuilt 3 of these transmissions so far and all have had bad input shaft bearings. One was driven so long with the gear popping out that the balls in the bearing fell out and got lodged in the differential. All had noise in neutral that went away with the clutch pushed prior to the failures. Last rebuild kit I bought for these trans was a little over a hundred bucks and it takes about 6 hours to do one of these correctly and quite a few speciality tools for setting bearing preloads and verifying proper clearances. When done correctly these trans should be good for a couple hundred thousand miles. You should use Mercon ATF in these. If you go the yard to get a trans and regular gear oil comes out - stay away (many shop put gear oil in when they hear the initial noise of the worn input bearings). Hope my experience is helpful to you.

i actually have noise in neutral like your describing, i have heard some low clinking noises but dont know if thats relevant, to me it sounds like its from the trans but i cant tell for sure.

[roycehof]

Yep - pretty sure the input shaft bearing is on its way out. Not sure aboutthe clinking noise unless the ball bearings are rolling around the inner and outer race with no retainer left. Not sure wht the shipping is to Lafayette TN, but I think I can send you the fresh 4 speed I have for about $250. If you want tips on removal and installation - PM me and leave me your telephone number. I can typically swap these in a couple of hours. You will need floor jack and jack stands - the rest is pretty much paint by numbers. No specialty tools are even needed - just your standard shop tools (You can do it without air tools but it might take a little longer (3 hours)). Shame you are so far away otherwise I would have you bring it to me and I could coach you through it.

[MTec007]

im not sure about having one shipped to me, but my b.i.l. will be available to instruct me and help if needed. 250 may be a fair price but im probably going to try and hit pullapart and see if i can find something there. if not there the local junk yard has them with 30day warranties. will also save me the shipping unless they end up being a p.o.s. also.

[roycehof]

OK - Good Luck! Let us know how you make out. Remember Safety First.

[RitzyFestiva]

Found this thread on a search but I am still new and the info I am reading isn't quite what I am trying to find out. I have a FSM for my son's '88 and on page 16-41-53 4 & 5 Speed Manual Transaxle the oil called out is A.P.I: GL-4, GL-5 (75W80) A.T.F.: M2C33F or DEXRON-II.

My question now is are these two different types of oil? And how do I know what I should be running in it? I changed out a CV axle today and am trying to get the stuck speedo out of the transmission so that I can fill it. the oil that came out of the transmission is amber colored and smelled like gear oil. I am worried about mixing two different types of oil in the tranny such as the 75W80 and DEXRON unless they are the same thing. Really never ahd to deal with this sort of thing as I drive 4runners and have not had to deal much with tranny issues. thanks in advance

[sasquatch]

Also run atf mercon V. Yup that's right automatic fluid in a 5 speed. That's what works. Hey do you know many people in Lafayette? Steve Lassiter?

isnt that a bit thin? i thought you should use some thicker gear oil... ya know for gears lol... and also i think i read somewhere on the protege forum if you use very heavy weight oil in your trans it will be less likely to blow up... is that true?

[RitzyFestiva]

I have the ford FSM (factory service manual) and it lists two different types of oil and this is a bit of an issue for me as it seems that the factory would have the answer, but I guess not. the FSM lists these:

A.P.I.:GL-4, GL-5 (75W-80)
A.T.F.: M2C33F or DEXRON-II

that is exactly what is printed in the service manual. So is there any real difference between 75W80 gear oil and ATF DEXRON-II?

What about adding one type to the other? How do you know what is in the thing to begin with? Doesn't seem like the best way to go by adding one type to the other when you don't know what is in there. I don't know, I'm really confused on this one, maybe just finally get the stupid speedo gear out of the tranny and just drain the entire tranny and then refill with one or the other? Very open to usggestions here.