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Can't remove Ball Joint from Hub

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  • #1

    Can't remove Ball Joint from Hub

    Originally posted by GenevaDirt View Post
    did not need to take the sway bar down. Just take off the pinch bolt...use a pry bar and wedge it up where the sway bar goes through the LCA and push down...it pops right out. Unbolt it from the frame and take the nut off the sway bar where it goes through the LCA....reassemble in reverse order.

    But your way works too....
    This is not working at all, I have been BFH'ing and prying at this ball joint for too long... ITS NOT COMING OUT!!!!!!!!!!! arghhhhhhh


    But seriously.. I need some advice on getting this ball joint separated.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    What is your issue? Getting the joint loose from the pinch bolt, or getting LCA out once you have all the nuts and bolts out?

    Dumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.

    1988 L - 232K miles Batstiva
    1989 L - 247K miles Slick
    1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
    Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:

    Comment

    • #3
      I have all the bolts removed except the one to the frame, but I have been able to turn that one a little bit. I am having trouble separating the ball joint from the spindle. I have been whacking (doesn't sound right) and prying at it for a while.. can't do it anymore.

      Comment

      • #4
        Is it possible you are confusion the ball-joint and the outer tie rod (which doesn't have to be removed to replace the LCA).
        Never had problems with the ball-joint.
        Pull the pinch bolt and nut off, wedge a flat blade screw driver into the split with a few taps of a hammer and pull/pry the LCA/ball-joint off the hub assembly.
        Sometimes just pushing down on the outer end of the LCA is enough to separate the two.
        '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
        '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
        '92 Aqua parts Car
        '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
        '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

        "Your God of repentance will not save you.
        Your holy ghost will not save you.
        Your God plutonium will not save you.
        In fact...
        ...You will not be saved!"

        Prince of Darkness -1987

        Comment

        • #5
          Hubs up front
          Spindels in the back
          '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
          '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
          '92 Aqua parts Car
          '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
          '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

          "Your God of repentance will not save you.
          Your holy ghost will not save you.
          Your God plutonium will not save you.
          In fact...
          ...You will not be saved!"

          Prince of Darkness -1987

          Comment

          • #6
            I'm not trying to remove the tie rod ball joint, only the LCA ball joint. So what about the hammer in the split? I have been trying to pry apart the split. What does hammering it do? break it loose? I cannot get a good angle into the split.

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by codex View Post
              I have all the bolts removed except the one to the frame, but I have been able to turn that one a little bit. I am having trouble separating the ball joint from the spindle. I have been whacking (doesn't sound right) and prying at it for a while.. can't do it anymore.
              Okay, since he's talking about the frame bolt, I'm assuming he's actually dealing with the LCA, and not the tie rod end. That particular bolt is kind of infamous for becoming rust welded. If you have some PB Blaster/WD 40 laying around, I would recommend hitting the captive nut (on the other end of the bolt you are trying to turn) with copious amounts before cranking on it too hard. It is possible to actually break that captive nut loose from the welds on the frame, in which case, you are well and truly effed.

              And John is correct. Once you've got the pinch bolt out, you should be able to, or at least I've always done it this way, slide the blade of a flat head screwdriver into that groove, pry just a bit, and it should pop right out.

              FWIW, I have found it to be much easier to drop the ball joint from the pinch bolt once that frame bolt is out, it just gives you a little more play to work.
              Last edited by batstiva; 05-22-2010, 04:10 PM.

              Dumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.

              1988 L - 232K miles Batstiva
              1989 L - 247K miles Slick
              1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
              Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:

              Comment

              • #8
                Ok, I will remove the last bolt from the frame. I only left it there because I thought it would help with leverage.

                Comment

                • #9
                  I think he may need to pry that pinch nut "collar" out a bit.
                  Try a thin flat bladed screw driver, then with it in place use another larger one till the ball-joint moves freely.
                  A shot of PB Blaster doesn't hurt either.
                  '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
                  '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
                  '92 Aqua parts Car
                  '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
                  '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

                  "Your God of repentance will not save you.
                  Your holy ghost will not save you.
                  Your God plutonium will not save you.
                  In fact...
                  ...You will not be saved!"

                  Prince of Darkness -1987

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    The other thing you can do, once you have all the bolts out, is set a jack directly under the edge of your rotor, and jack up the rotor while you are prying down on the LCA. I had to do that with Batstiva when I did it's LCAs. I don't think they had ever been changed before I got it, and the ball joint was kind of rusted into the pinch bolt.

                    P.S. If that frame bolt doesn't want to come out, please hit it with PB or WD, or KY for that matter. Trust me, you don't want to snap the welds holding that captive nut in place. Not fun.

                    Or, you can disregard that last part, because I just went back and re read what you typed. And it said you COULD move that bolt. Nevermind me. :tard:
                    Last edited by batstiva; 05-22-2010, 04:29 PM.

                    Dumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.

                    1988 L - 232K miles Batstiva
                    1989 L - 247K miles Slick
                    1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
                    Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by batstiva View Post
                      It is possible to actually break that captive nut loose from the welds on the frame, in which case, you are well and truly effed.
                      Well, thanks Murphy. After turning the head of the bolt about 25 times, I've concluded that the weld has broken on the nut. Also, in the process of turning it, the bushing inside the LCA is completely trashed.
                      Now what?

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Reciprocating saw to cut the LCA to body bolt in two places.
                        One each side of the LCA.
                        Then punch out the nut and remainder of the bolt to which it is still attached..
                        Hope your LCA came with a flared nut to replace the caged one.
                        Otherwise a big washer will do.
                        Remember to remove as much of the now manged cage, that held the nut, as you can.
                        Most of it should come out when you punch it out.
                        '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
                        '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
                        '92 Aqua parts Car
                        '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
                        '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

                        "Your God of repentance will not save you.
                        Your holy ghost will not save you.
                        Your God plutonium will not save you.
                        In fact...
                        ...You will not be saved!"

                        Prince of Darkness -1987

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          This may be beyond my abilites.. Im not sure. The bad part is, I dont think I can drive the car the way it is. The LCA came with no bolts at all, so I'm on my own there. I need a suggestion for proper bolt and nut to replace it with. I'm not sure what you mean about a washer.
                          Last edited by codex; 05-22-2010, 04:51 PM.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Hello there....I have a free day tomorrow if you would like I can make a trip out and help you....have taken the lca off of Festy's plenty of times....not sure if the Aspire is the same or not. Let me know.
                            "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                            89L Silver EFI auto
                            91GL Green Auto DD
                            There ain't no rest for the wicked
                            until we close our eyes for good.
                             I will sleep when I die!
                            I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Cutting wheel to the frame rail, weld the nut back up and then weld the frame back up.
                              91GL BP/F3A with boost
                              13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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