get rid of the cage or bend it far enough out of the way to get a regular nut and lock washer up in there. I had the same issue a few years ago with one of the Festy's and just used my finger to hold a nut and washer long enough to get it to tighten. Never had an issue after that.
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Can't remove Ball Joint from Hub
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Try turning the steering wheel to move the ball around?
Try cutting away the rubber and whacking the ball directly?
I had no trouble removing mine. I put a cold chisel in the
pinch bolt slot and tapped it with a hammer to open it up. Then
the pry bar worked.Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.
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The LCA inner bolt (and the lower rear strut bolt) have a thread pitch of 1.5, not 1.25, FYI. This of course doesn't matter if you are using an appropriate 1.25 nut as well.
The Festiva and Aspire inner LCA bolts should be the same. I took two off an Aspire to use on the lower rear Festy strut.Last edited by TominMO; 05-25-2010, 09:35 AM.90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand
Disaster preparedness
Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info
Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!
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I picked up the bolt and nut from fastenal today along with a lock washer. I have everything on the car, but when I am tightening the new bolt and nut, the nut is just spinning inside the frame, I have been trying to wedge things to stop it from spinning to no avail. Is the car safe to drive without that nut torqued down hard? I'm out of ideas.
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No...it is not safe....get some lock washers....once it starts to compress it will hold the nut tight while you turn the bolt."FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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Well between not welding the cut on the frame and not being able to torque the frame bolt it would seem the cards are stacked against me. I still think I'm going to carefully drive it to OS X.
If anyone has a tool of some type that can help my problem, I would greatly appreciate it.Last edited by codex; 05-28-2010, 05:17 PM.
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The Festiva does not want to live. I just got done washing it and noticed once I got home that the front driver wheel was hot and smoking. For some reason I thought I would try pushing hard on the brake pedal. Well, when I did this I blew the front passenger brake line. So now the Festiva is without brakes and will not be attending OSX. I have no tools or experience in working with brake lines. Any suggestions?
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Oh my!
How far away from Summit do you live? Maybe someone could pick you up and you can at least attend. Then more than likely we can give you more advice on working on brake lines, etc. (I'm about to replace an entire hard line system soon.)
If you can get to Summit, you can ride with me to Moraine. Then, preferably, get someone from your area to take you back, but if not, I'll do that, too. I hate to see someone miss an event!
PM me or post here tonight before 0600 tomorrow morning. That's when I leaveth.
KarlLast edited by Safety Guy; 05-28-2010, 06:50 PM.'93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
'91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
'92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
'93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
'89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project
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Well I have another car to bring, just not the Festiva. What does one do in a situation like this? Does the mechanic come to your house to change the brake lines? Any idea on cost? I'm thinking of just replacing the one but maybe they should all be replaced.
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If one pops then the other lines should be inspected, at the very least. Unless there is some obvious reason the one popped and the rest of the lines are good, then I'd begin replacing all of them.
Doing certain short sections is not too bad, but getting to all of them is not fun.
I'm taking out engine and transaxle and a lot of other things to make it easier for me.
Karl'93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
'91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
'92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
'93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
'89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project
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If he does it while you watch and learn and he answers any questions you may have, I think that price is okay.
-Look at all the hard lines (and hoses) to see what he thinks
-Remove the old busted line
-Install the new one
-Bleed the brakes
-Test drive
I think that's it. You should find that most of it isn't too mysterious.
Karl'93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
'91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
'92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
'93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
'89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project
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