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  • Weber conversion Q's (Many Pictures)

    Installing a Weber style carb. with a modded intake with no pcv connection...



    I know, there is already a thread or two, or 12... Probably already answered, but I am really baffled on this!

    I am stupid / a newbie when it comes to carbs / vacuum lines. I know, and I'm sorry to put you through all this. In the posts I read, it says to just remove all the hoses except the disty vac lines and obviously the fuel line. Well, I can't imagine removing THIS many! I mean I don't know where they go, or what they do, or how to remove them or anything. I am sure someone else out there will need / appreciate all the information you guys / gals can give me as well. I have included some pictures pointing out what is in question. Pretty much everything vacuum or fuel related looking... Please be as detailed as possible. Please don't just say, "Yes, you can cut that off." Please tell me what it goes to, and the method of removing it as to not cause any issues. This thing has been broken down for too long, and I am finally able to tinker with it a little.

    A= vacuum line going to air cleaner / breather... Not using the same breather, so I don't figure I will even need to worry about transferring this to the new carb.

    B=What in the heck is this, and do I need to keep it? If I can get rid of it, where do the lines go, and what do I do with them or what they connect to?
    Just under the letter B, same questions.

    C=Same as B.

    D=PCV valve, I know that, but I am going to run without it. What did everyone else do to this step?

    E=Tube that went to breather I'm not using. I have seen some pics on here that a few of you guys have put on with some kind of filter looking thing in that hole. What is it, where do I get one, how expensive... etc... With that, would I still need something for the PCV, or would I just plug the hole?

    F=The whole picture is F. What is all this, and can I remove it?

    G=Same as F.

    H=These went into the thing(?) on the side of the old breather. Do I need these? Can I remove them, where do they go, do I plug them off, etc...?






    Also, how much play should be in the throttle cable? I can remove it from the arm quite easily without moving the arm or applying much pressure to the cable. Should it be adjusted? If so, how should I do this, and how tight should it be?

    Edit: Sorry about the size of the pictures, on photobucket it said resized, but some are still larger than others.
    Last edited by doylerl; 03-19-2011, 05:48 PM.
    The normal is not always normal... MOST is not ALL... And any job can be hard if you don't have the right tools!!!

    My Fleet:
    89 L 4spd (Daily Driver(if it isn't broke down)) "Spanky"

  • #2
    I would refer you to drddan's thread for pics and commentary:
    Discuss making performance enhancements to the OEM-spec engine in your Festiva or Aspire.


    Yes, we removed a whole bunch of stuff! A - H can all go. Just keep the PCV valve (D) and the vacuum lines to the disty, and put a small breather filter (under $10 at McParts store) on the valve cover where that hose is (E). I can't identify all those pieces and don't care anyway. It was all emissions-related crapola. We took 'em off Dan's car and it runs great. You'll have to plug a few holes on the intake manifold, but that's easy. For H, one goes to the cat and one goes to the exhaust manifold. They are just heat risers, and don't actually connect to the air in the cat or in the exhaust manifold, so just get rid of as much of it as you can, and don't worry about the rest.

    See post #26 in Dan's Weber thread for pics of the completed setup. See post #11 for all the stuff we took off. In the first pic in post 26 you can see the two vacuum lines going to the vacuum advance attached to the disty.

    For the throttle cable, I like to have just enough play that you can tell it is barely loose at idle, but no more.
    Last edited by TominMO; 03-20-2011, 09:49 AM.
    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
    09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

    You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

    Disaster preparedness

    Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

    Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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    • #3
      Once upon a time, cars used to have a tube dangling off the back of the engine and used moving air to draw out the crankcase vapors so that there wouldn't be varnishing of the valvetrain. It later became hooked to a manifold vacuum source so that the fumes could be drawn back into the combustion chambers. It is unwise to not have positive crankcase ventilation.

      Comment


      • #4
        Edit to my post above....Dan had not yet removed all of the H stuff, so don't worry if you see it in his pics. You'll notice a hose connected to the tube that comes up from the cat. Just remove all you can, right down to the cat. Same for the tube coming from the exhaust manifold.

        Further edit....Oh right, you're using the new manifold. Just make sure you have locations available on the intake manifold for the vacuum lines to the disty, and the PCV connection too. Good point Kozak made.
        Last edited by TominMO; 03-20-2011, 10:02 AM.
        90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
        09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

        You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

        Disaster preparedness

        Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

        Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

        Comment


        • #5
          If you keep the MAP sensor (left side of G) hooked to vacuum it will help keep your check engine light from coming on. Just use a tee. I think that's hooked to the same place as the distributor vacuum advance. It's not hurting anything being there but a check engine light that won't go off will drive you nuts.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by zoe60 View Post
            If you keep the MAP sensor (left side of G) hooked to vacuum it will help keep your check engine light from coming on. Just use a tee. I think that's hooked to the same place as the distributor vacuum advance. It's not hurting anything being there but a check engine light that won't go off will drive you nuts.
            Or just remove the CEL bulb from the cluster.

            As for H, those tubes do actually connect to the air in the cat and the exhaust manifold. I looked this up in my Haynes manual (page 6-2, Pulse Air System). What you could do is connect them to each other with a hose, like Dan did. Then for sure they wouldn't be spewing exhaust gases into the engine bay. Or you could cut them shorter and plug them, too.
            Last edited by TominMO; 03-20-2011, 10:25 AM.
            90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
            09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

            You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

            Disaster preparedness

            Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

            Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

            Comment


            • #7
              .... Nice pics :thumbup:

              .
              A hunch is creativity trying to tell you something.

              Comment


              • #8
                Doy, Tom got most of your Q's, but the throttle cable adjusts with the nut and washer right at the bracket that it mounts to on the valve cover. You may have to do some modification to the bracket, or move it, depending on the carb set up you have. The cable should have the play adjusted almost completely out of it. A little slack is all you need. Just enough so the throttle closes on the carb.
                Really all the vacuum lines work just the emission feedback carb you no longer have. So none of the lines are needed, except for the PCV valve and Distributor. Basically, with the Weber it is OLD SCHOOL...engine and carb feeding gas to the cylinders, no emission stuff.
                If you have more Q's, PM me and I will try to answer them. I also have a bunch of pics of my existing lines to the disty and pcv and throttle hookup.

                BTW, that is one sweet setup! Nice intake and carb.

                I think bravekosak has a way to hook the PCV into the EGR port since you dont have a place on your intake for the PCV.
                Last edited by drddan; 03-20-2011, 07:43 PM.
                Dan




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                • #9
                  Another thought....for E, you have an alternative to the breather filter setup. If you have the Weber air filter housing, you should have a small hole in the bottom housing, and a plastic L-shaped hose fitting to go in it. It is there so that you can connect the breather fitting (E) on the valve cover to it with a hose, to recirculate the gases coming out of the breather.
                  Last edited by TominMO; 03-21-2011, 06:05 AM.
                  90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                  09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                  You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                  Disaster preparedness

                  Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                  Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                    Another thought....for E, you have an alternative to the breather filter setup. If you have the Weber air filter housing, you should have a small hole in the bottom housing, and a plastic L-shaped hose fitting to go in it. It is there so that you can connect the breather fitting (E) on the valve cover to it with a hose, to recirculate the gases coming out of the breather.
                    That sounds like a good clean install option. Its funny how this post just poped up a few days ago. I'm in the same process my self. I hate emission carbs! Cant wait to get a Weber. There are so many vaccum hoses on this carb its insane! GEEEEZ LAWEEEZ.
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      He stated that he has no pcv on the carb? What is that Large black vaccum plug on the carb? Aint that where the pcv would go? I'm used to holleys and havent got my Weber yet? But there has to be some provision on a Weber right?
                      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        .... How about some pics after you make all the modifications so we can see how it worked out and generally looks. Your BEFORE and AFTER pics would be good for those making the changes in the future.

                        Thanks

                        ......

                        .
                        A hunch is creativity trying to tell you something.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                          He stated that he has no pcv on the carb? What is that Large black vaccum plug on the carb? Aint that where the pcv would go?
                          That plug covers a bowl vent that would go to one of those gas fume recovery cans. Although this carb is licensed to Ford by Weber, it is not exactly like a true Weber carb. It has a few smog type connections that have to be plugged, but they don't affect its operation.
                          You gonna race that thing?
                          http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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                          • #14
                            Doy, take a look at the flange mounting for the EGR valve. I think I plugged one of the holes with a hex socket pipe plug. If it is there, take it out and blow air in the hole and see if the air is coming out the intake ports. If air is coming out the intake ports, then you should be able to hook up your PCV valve to that hole as described in the picture below. There is a plug in the exhaust port for the EGR valve on the face of the intake flange. Do not remove that one.

                            If you want to vent the crankcase to the atmosphere like I had it, you will need to remove the PCV valve and install an open type hose fitting with nothing inside it unlike the PCV valve which has a type of check valve inside it.
                            You gonna race that thing?
                            http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Have not looked at the new intake yet, but I will get to it hopefully tomorrow. Today I went ahead and started ripping stuff off. And of course, more pictures and more questions:

                              2A= What are these plugs for? I have what was plugged into them, but I don't know if I need to save these pieces and reconnect after I put on the new carb.
                              2B= Same as 2A.
                              2C= Same as 2A.
                              2D= Same as 2A.

                              2E= What is this? Is it necesary to install it on the new setup?
                              2F= Same as 2E.
                              2H= Same as 2E.

                              2G= This is the plug I was asking about with regards to 2A-2D.
                              2J= Same as 2G.

                              2I= This wire went directly to the alt. and to the DS of the carb. What is it, and is it necesary?

                              2K-2M= Progress, intake finally removed.

                              2N= All the various vacuum lines and wires removed from old setup. Still more in there probably, but it was looking like rain, so I packed everything up and came inside.
















                              I know, a lot more questions, but I want to make sure I don't remove too much, and I remove everything I can. I did keep the map sensor, and I am looking into using the EGR port for my PCV. I am also going to get one of the VC breathers that a lot of you have.

                              Also, any thoughts, ideas, or opinions are welcome. It's a work in progress, and any information you can give me is greatly appreciated. Dan, I know you have already completed this so I'm sure I can count on you for expert advice. Thanks again everyone.
                              The normal is not always normal... MOST is not ALL... And any job can be hard if you don't have the right tools!!!

                              My Fleet:
                              89 L 4spd (Daily Driver(if it isn't broke down)) "Spanky"

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