Weber conversion Q's (Many Pictures)

[Festy46]

Try it this way:
Post you message, picture description, or whatever.
On the next line write this:
[img]name of your file and its www location[/img]
Here's an example from my Internet provider's web space that they give me.
The name of the file and its location is: http://users.isp.com/john48/fan.gif
If I put the brackets and the word "img" on each side of the file name it would automatically load like this:

[boydg1]

.... Ok I gotcha, I thought you had a another way similar to attachments. You are storing your pics off site then bringing them in. My misunderstanding.

Thanks again
___:angel12:___

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Try it this way:
Post you message, picture description, or whatever.
On the next line write this:
[img]name of your file and its www location[/img]
Here's an example from my Internet provider's web space that they give me.
The name of the file and its location is: http://users.isp.com/john48/fan.gif
If I put the brackets and the word "img" on each side of the file name it would automatically load like this:

[doylerl]

Ok, so I am still stumped. It will run while pumping, but kinda sounds funny. It sounds like it is sucking in a lot of air, and wants to die sometimes even when pumping. The fuel pump was replaced a little over a year ago, but is it possible it got damaged from running it out of gas? One guy at the parts store says it sounds like the accelerator pump in the carb. Could that be the case? The previous carb was having a similar problem, and the only thing I can think of that is the same between the two is the pump. Any ideas? If the pump were bad, it wouldn't run even when pumping I thought, but I'm not sure. Thanks in advance!

[bravekozak]

To test a mechanical pump, remove the out hose and put it in a large glass jar and have someone crank the engine. You will see with your eyes if the fuel pump is pumping gas or not. Pour the gas from the jar back into your tank.

[Festy46]

Like Festyboy said in an earlier post, I would be more concerned with the valve/ignition timing. I just checked one of my B6's on which I have the timing advanced a lot. My locking bolt is nowhere near where you have yours set. The green circle in the picture below is about where my bolt is clamping the distributor.

You can check to see if the carb is getting fuel and that the accelerator pump is working by opening the choke and looking down inside the back barrel of the carb. You should see a small tube or pin looking thing sticking out about halfway into the carb throat. That is a tube with a hole in the bottom that shoots fuel into the carb. Get a light so you can see good and watch the end of that tube while you work the throttle linkage like you would be pumping the gas pedal. You should see gas squirting out of it everytime you work the linkage. If you do see gas, then you need to figure out your timing problem. Adding to Bravekozak's comment, if you didn't get any gas in your jug, (doing the fuel pump test) you have either a fuel pump problem or a fuel line/filter problem somewhere.


Boydg1, I'm going to take that guy spinning on the fan down - he's making me dizzy.

[drddan]

Ok, so I am still stumped. It will run while pumping, but kinda sounds funny. It sounds like it is sucking in a lot of air, and wants to die sometimes even when pumping. The fuel pump was replaced a little over a year ago, but is it possible it got damaged from running it out of gas? One guy at the parts store says it sounds like the accelerator pump in the carb. Could that be the case? The previous carb was having a similar problem, and the only thing I can think of that is the same between the two is the pump. Any ideas? If the pump were bad, it wouldn't run even when pumping I thought, but I'm not sure. Thanks in advance!

Did you read my post..#27? Your timing belt is off. It will act funny like you described being off a tooth. Check the position of the timing marks on the sprockets. I'm going to bet they dont line up correctly.

[doylerl]

Did you read my post..#27? Your timing belt is off. It will act funny like you described being off a tooth. Check the position of the timing marks on the sprockets. I'm going to bet they dont line up correctly.

To do that I have to remove the pulleys right? How do I remove the crank pulley? Is there a secret to get to the bolts? There is not room for a wrench or a ratchet between the inner fender and the pulley itself.

[drddan]

No, you dont have to remove the pulleys, just the timing cover to check the timing marks. Follow the instructions in the Haynes manual to get the engine in the right position to where the timing marks should line up. There are marks on both pulleys that should line up. If they are off any at all, the belt is off a tooth...or two. If they do line up, then you'll at least know that is not the problem, but i'm betting from your description, they dont. It is pretty easy to do the check. You'll have to jack up and remove front passenger side tire and remove the plastic access panel in the inner fender well. You will be able to see the pulleys here. Haynes manual FTW. If you dont have one, get one. :p

The belt can be slid off from the pulleys and re-positioned if necesssary. This will mean lowering the engine by loosening the upper motor mount's 3 bolts and a jack under the engine for support.

[doylerl]

Like Festyboy said in an earlier post, I would be more concerned with the valve/ignition timing. I just checked one of my B6's on which I have the timing advanced a lot. My locking bolt is nowhere near where you have yours set. The green circle in the picture below is about where my bolt is clamping the distributor.

You can check to see if the carb is getting fuel and that the accelerator pump is working by opening the choke and looking down inside the back barrel of the carb. You should see a small tube or pin looking thing sticking out about halfway into the carb throat. That is a tube with a hole in the bottom that shoots fuel into the carb. Get a light so you can see good and watch the end of that tube while you work the throttle linkage like you would be pumping the gas pedal. You should see gas squirting out of it everytime you work the linkage. If you do see gas, then you need to figure out your timing problem. Adding to Bravekozak's comment, if you didn't get any gas in your jug, (doing the fuel pump test) you have either a fuel pump problem or a fuel line/filter problem somewhere.


Boydg1, I'm going to take that guy spinning on the fan down - he's making me dizzy.

Ok, so according to this post, the accelerator pump is the only thing working. The front barrel is bone dry.... why would that be?

Dan, thanks for the info. Now that I know the secret, I will get to it. I was going to try it the other day, but thought I would have to remove the pulleys.

[Festy46]

The front barrel is dry because the accelerator pump only pumps gas into the primary (back) barrel. If you look close, you will see there is no little tube sticking out the inside of the front barrel. That carb has manual progressive linkage. If you open the throttle and watch the 2 throttle shafts on the carb you will see that the back shaft opens part way before the front one ever moves. If both barrels had an accelerator pump nozzle in them and the linkage was not progressive, the engine would die from getting drown with fuel as soon as you stepped on the gas pedal.

[doylerl]

IT BREATHES... under its own power!!!! I adjusted the timing a little, messed with the idle screw some, and ran 2 whole cans of Seafoam through it, but it seems to be ok now! It still stumbles on itself a little, but the gas in it is like 9-10 months old. I will run it for a bit, and fill it up with premium fuel, octane booster, and gas treatment. I can already tell it is peppier than with that stock emissions based crap carb. Even with it stumbling, it is quicker! Now, I have driven a couple of sticks since, and I can tell the clutch is SHOT! On top of the fact that the clutch has to be let out ALL the way to move, the throwout bearing is clattering and chirping to beat hell. When it gets warmer, my dad and I are going to replace it. Until then, I can tear this clutch up as much as I want...

[89newb]

congrats doylerl. let us know if the stumbling goes away

[boydg1]

.... My car set for twelve years before I reactivated it. Had NO trouble with the gas, started right up. I would NOT run premium gas stick with REGULAR, too much chance of burning a valve. And I would NOT abuse it either, show some respect there ant many left and parts are getting harder to get. :thumbright:

From my own experiences

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