I only retapped what was left in there from a loose bolt smashing around about the top half of the threads. I used a bolt just a little longer than oem and it went down further in the threads.
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top end rattle, anyone run a B3 without the valve cover on?
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Yeah, that won't work for me. Only about 1 thread left in the bottom.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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Picked up a helicoil kit today, $40 for 10 inserts plus $2.50 for a bit. I could do all the threaded holes now if I wanted. I need to get a steel block to drill a hole thru for a pilot now. That way I can sit the block on the location so the drill stays square to the hole. Or is that overkill?1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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Not overkill, but is a good idea! If you have access to a drill press, just drill a hole in a piece of steel or aluminum the size as the O.D. of the tap, and tap through the drilled block to keep it straight.
EDIT: For a one time shot at tapping the helicoil, a wood block will work the same as the steel, for once the tap is started straight with 2-3 threads, it will stay straight.Last edited by drddan; 07-15-2011, 12:45 PM.Dan
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Originally posted by Larry Hampton View PostPicked up a helicoil kit today, $40 for 10 inserts plus $2.50 for a bit. I could do all the threaded holes now if I wanted. I need to get a steel block to drill a hole thru for a pilot now. That way I can sit the block on the location so the drill stays square to the hole. Or is that overkill?
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My problem is I don't have access to a chunk of steel or aluminum that thick. I could likely get a piece of oak from my neighbor, and I have a 6" jointer so I know the bottom is true and a floor mounted drill press.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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Okay, I obtained a piece of 1" plate from my neighbor, so today I cut off a 2"x3" piece and drilled two holes in it, one to screw into the good hole to hold the guide in place, and the second, for the hole to be drilled. This took a couple hours to make and install the helicoil, but it worked. But it felt funny torqueing it down. I first tightened everything down with my 1/4" ratchet, I needed to make sure the springs weren't between the shaft and the saddle like the PO installed it. I used the torque wrench to back them off just a bit, only one made it click at 20 ft/lbs. Put it all together, put the charger ion the battery and she started right up. Took it for a ride, maybe I shoulda kept that clutch I bought for the other car, this clutch feels almost gone.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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