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Aspire CV axle removal

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  • Zanzer
    replied
    Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
    Yes that works good too.I wonder if its really bad for the axle? I know its not good for the rubber boot for sure. I've been thinking about this topic for a couple of weeks. And two brain storms i have had are.
    1) Bearing spliter in between the cup and the case.Just enough tention so you can wack the cup with Hammer
    2) Fab up a large tie rod style tool that would take the place of two pry bars.This would leave one hand free to hit cup with a hammer or hold a "Tall Cool Budwieser" :p
    There's gotta be a little easier way. I bought a 89 Carby from a kid in Colorado. You should see what he did to the poor Tranny case trying to pull the axle's. It looks like he got REALLY MAD !
    I'm not sure if it's really so bad for the axle unless it would pop the inner retaining ring that holds one of the CV's together. I'd say it's definitely detrimental to the boot

    I like the idea of the bearing splitter. May have to try that one out :thumbup:

    Per idea #2; I thought about a big "pickle fork" too, but since they work on an inclined plane I wondered if it would still try to bind the axle to one side. Unless you're talking about making one that is flat and just fits behind the cup so you could pry with one hand and tap with the other. I could see that working and making it much easier

    Or possibly radius the back side so it would slide in straight/flat and then apply even pressure when you pried with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • 91_festy_Gl
    replied
    Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
    Yes that works good too.I wonder if its really bad for the axle? I know its not good for the rubber boot for sure. I've been thinking about this topic for a couple of weeks. And two brain storms i have had are.
    1) Bearing spliter in between the cup and the case.Just enough tention so you can wack the cup with Hammer
    2) Fab up a large tie rod style tool that would take the place of two pry bars.This would leave one hand free to hit cup with a hammer or hold a "Tall Cool Budwieser" :p
    There's gotta be a little easier way. I bought a 89 Carby from a kid in Colorado. You should see what he did to the poor Tranny case trying to pull the axle's. It looks like he got REALLY MAD !
    I had to patch my tranny because the PO busted a hole in it trying to remove the axle. Never pry on the upper portion of the diff casing.

    Leave a comment:


  • nitrofarm
    replied
    Originally posted by Zanzer View Post
    Or of it's a bad axle that I don't care about I just push it all the way in to compress it and then give it a very quick and hard pull. This works very well, but not so good for the axle
    Yes that works good too.I wonder if its really bad for the axle? I know its not good for the rubber boot for sure. I've been thinking about this topic for a couple of weeks. And two brain storms i have had are.
    1) Bearing spliter in between the cup and the case.Just enough tention so you can wack the cup with Hammer
    2) Fab up a large tie rod style tool that would take the place of two pry bars.This would leave one hand free to hit cup with a hammer or hold a "Tall Cool Budwieser" :p
    There's gotta be a little easier way. I bought a 89 Carby from a kid in Colorado. You should see what he did to the poor Tranny case trying to pull the axle's. It looks like he got REALLY MAD !

    Leave a comment:


  • Zanzer
    replied
    I've removed quite a few of these and they can be very stubborn. Like Nitro says, keeping them straight is the trick. It's extremely easy to get them in a bind and many times that's what you're fighting instead of the circlip. Typically when I remove an axle I try to use 2 pry bars of the same size and shape, I insert them between the axle and case at 180° apart, then give it the old "1,2,3" and try to snatch them at the exact same time to pop the axle. Usually gets them on the first or second hit, although I've had a few tough ones. The key is even pressure.

    Or of it's a bad axle that I don't care about I just push it all the way in to compress it and then give it a very quick and hard pull. This works very well, but not so good for the axle

    Leave a comment:


  • WmWatt
    replied
    There was another thread on this topic. The conclusion was the best way is to tap on the inner housing while pulling. Reportedly works like a charm. I got mine out by putting one foot on the chassis and pulling with both hands while turning. Good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • georgeb
    replied
    Couldn't get them out of my '93 when I was removing the engine so I had to remove engine/trans through the bottom. Awful. Still couldn't get them out of bare trans. Ended up removing inner CV snap ring and pulling out innards. Outer cases are still in trans (make good spider gear holders).
    Last edited by georgeb; 08-16-2011, 04:53 PM. Reason: changed word

    Leave a comment:


  • nitrofarm
    replied
    I feel your pain Tom-Luckly I've had my 18 to help me.But know he's at football camp. But You really need someone extra. It will come out. Its mind over matter. Seriously you know its not corroded its just physics. And yes my arm was sore for a week also!
    Method #1 Have a buddy pulling on the axle as hard and STRAIGHT as they can. Meanwhile use a prybar and hammer and try to get it to pop. They KEY is to keep the axle STRAIGHT.
    Method #2 If that dont work use two prybars @ the cup 180 appart. Then have your buddy tap tap tap on the axle cup. The Key is always Keep the whole assembly STAIGHT. If its on an angle its gonna fight you. GOOD LUCK !
    PS I've personally have had 100% with both of these methods.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pu241
    replied
    Originally posted by TominMO View Post
    Thanks all, gotta sign off for now. Methinx Harbor Freight is in my future. Slide hammer.
    You couldn't do this when I was out that way and had a slide hammer available.
    Just replacing the axle due to wear?

    Leave a comment:


  • zoom zoom
    replied
    I usually just rent em from azone or advance..use and take it back lol.. better than overpaying for one that's made to break from harbor fakes

    Leave a comment:


  • TominMO
    replied
    Thanks all, gotta sign off for now. Methinx Harbor Freight is in my future. Slide hammer.

    Leave a comment:


  • zoom zoom
    replied
    Mine took quite a bit of force..more than 2 hits with a pull hammer.. actually, my arm was sore for a week. But once the C clip starts thru it just slides right out. I also didn't put a new seal in mine, and haven't had any leaks at all in the last 10k miles or so..

    Leave a comment:


  • zoom zoom
    replied
    I had issues getting mine out too, if its a junk axel, just yank everything out of the cup, use a drill or a grinder to cut a hole in the side of the cup, and Afro engineer a slide pull hammer to it..that's what I did, removing the transmission is unnecessary.

    I've heard people get results with a pry bar on each side too but I couldn't. Once the axel sweats itself inside the gear they just don't want to move lol..g/l
    Last edited by zoom zoom; 08-16-2011, 04:02 PM.

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  • TominMO
    replied
    Originally posted by Pu241 View Post
    1. Perhaps a human sacrifice is in order, the god of olde seemed to like those!

    2. Or maybe make sure the axle is as near straight as possible before appling force.

    3. A slide hammer has helped me in the past, but as Festyboy has warned, you could cause damage to the axle using it. I did not need to apply a lot of force so much as it needed to have the correct vector and it popped out on the second hit.
    1. Will look for suitable human sacrifice. Perhaps at Democratic headquarters here in STL.

    2. Right, am aware of this.

    3. Axle damage not an issue.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pu241
    replied
    Originally posted by TominMO View Post
    I think God is pissed at me because I don't believe in Him.

    Perhaps a human sacrifice is in order, the god of olde seemed to like those!

    Or maybe make sure the axle is as near straight as possible before appling force.

    A slide hammer has helped me in the past, but as Festyboy has warned, you could cause damage to the axle using it. I did not need to apply a lot of force so much as it needed to have the correct vector and it popped out on the second hit.

    Leave a comment:


  • TominMO
    replied
    Originally posted by eurotiva View Post
    Get a bigger hammer Tom.
    Went to Harborfreight.com, looked under Precision Hand Tools, couldn't find sledge hammer.

    Leave a comment:

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