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Fuseable Link distribution block repair

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  • #16
    I've got to get some pictures but I replaced my Dad's fuse block with a retrofit covered fuse holder after I broke the spade connectors in the block. I tried to replace the fusible links without any penetrant and the spades were so corroded they crumbled when I pulled on them. The new box uses fuses the same size as those in the interior fuse panel. Soldered and heat shrinked all connections and used 30/40/30 fuses. Works fine!
    -Zack
    Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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    • #17
      Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
      I've got to get some pictures but I replaced my Dad's fuse block with a retrofit covered fuse holder after I broke the spade connectors in the block. I tried to replace the fusible links without any penetrant and the spades were so corroded they crumbled when I pulled on them. The new box uses fuses the same size as those in the interior fuse panel. Soldered and heat shrinked all connections and used 30/40/30 fuses. Works fine!
      Yup,more than one way to "Skin a Kat"
      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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      • #18
        You can retrofit fuse blocks from Marine/Custom Applications. My 5 gang block for the XS400 was like $11 or so on eBay. There are some that come with covers and some have the terminals on the bottom, others have the terminals on the sides (mine).

        It replaces the fuse block with ATC fuses.

        I intend eventually to cut the center divider down on the stock unit and use the short-legged fuses in it, since I'm able to find them every time I go to the junkyard for free.

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        • #19
          after you rebuild the block do the cartridge fuse's fit right in or is there something else you have to do to the block to put cartridge fuse's in

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          • #20
            Originally posted by mgthrilla View Post
            after you rebuild the block do the cartridge fuse's fit right in or is there something else you have to do to the block to put cartridge fuse's in
            Yes they are a direct fit.
            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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            • #21
              i seriously need to do this... as it has already left me nearly stranded twice, and the macguyver-esqe fix that's making it work now is kinda sketchy... to put it nicely
              Originally posted by scirocco*joe
              Project Car Theorem:
              If
              a) w = all time
              b) x = time spent at work
              c) y = the number of project cars you have
              d) z = amount of time you can spend each project car

              Then

              z = (w - x) / y

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              • #22
                This wouldn't cause a car to idle fine, rev fine, but when you start driving, kind of lose power and stall? Or is this a different problem all on its own? I did pull one of the connectors out to see what it was (never seen them before) and I just put it back in the block.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by valelotax View Post
                  This wouldn't cause a car to idle fine, rev fine, but when you start driving, kind of lose power and stall? Or is this a different problem all on its own? I did pull one of the connectors out to see what it was (never seen them before) and I just put it back in the block.
                  No not at all,that sounds like a fuel supply problem.
                  Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                  Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                  Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                  • #24
                    Grrr, ok. I did replace the filter, pump is pretty new, but it does pump plenty of fuel out. Ok, then it is the carburetor again... Maybe I might just start to strip it for paint and get a new engine and transmission setup.

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                    • #25
                      I'm lazy. Just replace it with KK14066760 .

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                      • #26
                        I used a fuse block off a b2200 Mazda pickup I had in the yard. Been great and has clean up the bay a lot and looks nearly stock. Because it is OEM

                        Sent from Kingston Ga from my hillbilly handheld
                        90 festy with 92 FI motor. Digital camo paint. BHAF. short throw. currently 47 MPGs

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                        • #27
                          How important is this repair?

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by iriegnome View Post
                            How important is this repair?
                            I'd say it is more of a when not if repair. If you're into preventative maintenance and have the supplies, I'd say there's no reason not to. It's pretty easy as far as electrical work goes.
                            1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                              I'm lazy. Just replace it with KK14066760 .
                              So what is exactly does this do?

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                              • #30
                                Provides power to the ECA, fuel pump, ignition key (starter motor) and headlights. The main stuff to make your car go.
                                Last edited by bravekozak; 02-16-2014, 12:55 AM.

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