Radiator ?

[bassman]

my buddy siezed his cam in the head and found a used one for a few bucks and the guy at the machine shop did the install for a couple hundred in 2 eves, I suggest you just clean out the goop and drive it and see, my festy drops a litre of oil every month because I used sticky valve fixer in a can after my lifters were noisy...

now I just add oil and change the filter every few months, when she pops I got a baby 1.3 ready to go in.

[denguy]

Is it overheating?

[Occhty]

I've replaced the head gasket without taking the intake or exuast manifolds off the head. Even left the distributor in. This is only favorable assuming no head work is needed.

[htchbck]

Yeah, I was gonna say, the last head gasket job I did all I got were the TB gasket, the downpipe gasket, and the head gasket. Bout $30 for all of it, took about an hour from start to finish, and twenty mins of that was getting the nuts off the exhaust manifold studs to unhook the downpipe. But, then again, I've worked on these (and other engines a LOT). I'd plan for about a whole day, assuming the head gasket is all that is wrong, and there is no work that needs to be done to the head (like Occhty mentioned above). Probably won't take the whole day, but it might.

[jking89]

I wouldnt drive it to much. You can risk damaging the head then you may need to send it for a head resurface (though it can never hurt) but its totaly up to you.

[jking89]

sorry disregard my computer is slow just noticed that questions have been answered.

[walth]

thats a great point htchbck! Do you have to take off the TB to get to a couple head bolts? Or could you leave it on? You can get the VC off without removing the TB...

that will make it a LOT easier for time restraint. The biggest thing, when you go to put it back on, clean the holes that the head bolts go into (napkin around an air hose to reduce splatter) so you don't get false torque, then clean your hands real good so you don't dirty up anything.

are you planning to replace anything else? water pump? timing tensioner? timing belt? cam seal and crank seal? just a thought...will take more time but may save you down the road.

edit>> this should be renamed something like "oil in radiator. replaced headgasket"

[htchbck]

thats a great point htchbck! Do you have to take off the TB to get to a couple head bolts? Or could you leave it on? You can get the VC off without removing the TB...

The TB doesn't have to be removed, but I usually do just because it makes reinstalling the VC soooo much easier. Just plop it straight down without having to make sure the gasket doesn't catch on anything while trying to slip it under the TB. But yes, it can be done without removing the TB.

[walth]

it only takes about 10 seconds to line up the timing and remove the vc. I understand your point but removing the tb takes a good bit longer.

the next time I take off (or anyone else that does this) I will check to see where my timing marks are on the cam. it may already be on FF

just a thought. either works

[htchbck]

Timing marks should be at 12oclock and 3 oclock when #1 is at TDC. And yes, I know the VC comes off easily without taking off the TB. But it only takes about 1 minute to pull the TB, then when it comes time to reinstall the VC you can just drop it straight down on. Its just a preference though really. lol

[crazyrog17]

I just did a head gasket (well, twice) and it takes about 6 hours for a novice. If you have a weekend to spare, this is totally a project you can tackle. After my first time, I did the second in 2 hours.

You'll need:
Can of PB Blaster (for the 3 exhaust down pipe nuts especially) $5
Head gasket $20
Throttle body gasket $6
Valve cover gasket (optional but fails often, peace of mind) $15
12mm 12 point 1/2" socket (for the head bolts)$6

Scouring pad and acetone or brake cleaner to clean up the head and block surfaces

Tools:
1/2" torque wrench
The usual 10 12 14 17mm sockets
Pliers and drivers

Drain the engine of fluids and disconnect all electrical connectors and hoses to the head. Remove the timing covers and take off the timing belt. Take off the distributor and plug wires (make sure not to rotate the cam or distributor after it's out. Don't forget about the heater core hose that's kind of hidden behind the head on the passenger's side. Remove the throttle body and then take off the valve cover. Finally disconnect the exhaust from the down pipe (after you PB Blast the crap out of it and let it soak).

There are 10 bolts that sandwich the head to the block. Use your fancy-dancy new 12point 12mm socket to remove the ten bolts. Pull the head off of the top of the engine and set it somewhere safe. The intake and exhaust manifolds stay on the head so it's heavy and awkward to get out, you might need a hand.

Peel off the old head gasket and clean up the mating surfaces. Take a long, perfectly straight rule or piece metal stock and check across the head diagonally to make sure it's not warped. If you haven't overheated your engine, chances are it's fine.

Put the new head gasket down on the block and carefully put the head back on. There's a pattern to tightening the head bolts down (after you've cleaned them and lubed them with new engine oil) that you can find in the ford service manual or haynes book.

Reinstall the exhaust, valve cover, throttle body and all hoses and connectors. Reinstall the timing belt (search articles section of the forum for a how to). Replace coolant and oil.

Look over the engine compartment once more and then fire it up! Let it idle as you're checking for any leaks. As the engine gradually warms up, the sealant layers on the new head gasket will bond with the mating surfaces. You're good to go, bro!

[jbuck1975]

You make it sound easy!!!

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[jbuck1975]

Also. While in the engine should I go ahead a change anything else that could be the cause of oil leaking. Or just wait until this part is down.

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[walth]

the HG should be the only cause of your current leak.

[jbuck1975]

Its been using or leaking oil since I've had it.

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