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  • #16
    I've done it. Figured it out and drove to parts store to get another, then found the old cap wedged in the back of the engine comp. Now I have a spare cap...
    2011 Kia Forte Koup
    2007 Sea-Pro 196 CC with Mercury Verado 150hp
    1993 Ford Bronco 351/E4OD
    1988 Festiva L 4 speed

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    • #17
      we rolled into Myrtle Beach after an all night drive, oil coming up outta da hood seems (Triumph Spitfire). ours WAS a blown motor, at least it died beside a bar and the bar was just opening
      He said a bad word :nono:

      1990 Festiva
      1987 F-250 diesel-powered
      1984 Ironhead Chopper
      1999 Ducati Monster

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      • #18
        Originally posted by BigElCat View Post
        We even had a flame shooting out of the oil hole.
        :laughing8:

        That. Is. Funny.

        Originally posted by stonemaster View Post
        at least it died beside a bar and the bar was just opening
        What luck! :p
        Last edited by drddan; 06-05-2012, 10:01 PM.
        Dan




        Red 1988 Festiva L - CUJO

        Black 1992 Festiva GL Sport - BLACK MAGIC

        I'm just...a little slow... sometimes:withstupid:

        R.I.P.
        Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
        Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
        Silver 1988 Festiva L

        My Music!
        http://www.reverbnation.com/main/sea...t_songs/266647

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        • #19
          I checked the oil and it was down, so I added 1 and a half liters. I then wiped around the head gasket, spark plugs, distributer cap, pvc and its tubing, and any other area where I thought some oil might leak out. I then started the car and searched for a leak. There was nothing significant except for a miniscue amount coming from around the head gasket ( it's always been leaking a little bit). I then pulled on the throttle cable and let the engine rev high for about 30 seconds. Still there wasn't any significant leaks. I don't know what to think. Maybe the oil was overfilled. I did do an oil change about a month ago. Did a little bit of driving around town, but never for a prolonged period of time ... 15 / 20 minutes max at a time. However, when the oil spewed out it was driven about a minute.

          Oh yah, I also checked the dipstick, oil filler cap, and oil filter. All were in place and secure.

          At the time the oil covered the engine and stalled out, I didn't even try starting the car again. Instead, I had CAA tow it back to house. I was very surprised that it started today when I topped up the oil and turned the key.

          I was wondering if I should take the car for a short spin to see if the oil will spew out. Is that a wise thing to do? Would revving it up, like I explained earlier, and having nothing happen mean that everything's ok now? Or should I be doing something else?

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          • #20
            Take it for a short test drive and keep an eye on it, I would.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by iceracerdude View Post
              Obviously, you've checked the oil fill cap, make sure the hose coming from the pvc valve is still intact and running unbroken to the intake manifold.
              I bought a car from a guy that the top seal on the end of the camshaft (passenger side of head) had simply popped out of it's seat, almost as if it was not pushed all the way into place originally. It was rolling around on the end of the cam shaft right behind the belt cog, and the oil was just a flowing out right behind it.
              Just a $5 seal is all
              This is exactly what was wrong with my Festiva when I bought it. Took 6 quarts of oil to drive it about 25 miles home the day I bought it. Found the front cam seal just hanging behind the pulley when checked.

              Festivame

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              • #22
                It's been raining every evening since my last post and I hadn't any time to work on my festy. Well today I cleaned up the engine again and drove it a few blocks. I then lifted the hood and there was quite a bit of oil that had leaked out from the valve cover and was sprayed about by the fan. The valve cover gasket leaked a lot of oil, you could see where it was running out, then traveling down to the plugs, transmission, drive belt, and other areas. On that short 5 - 6 block round trip, there was even oil on the fan shroud...I assume it got there by the spray caused by the radiator fan.

                I'll attempt replacing the valve cover gasket tomorrow since its forcast and supposed to rain anytime now.

                My fesitva is fuel injected. Is there any special precautions I should take when I replace the gasket? I've never done one before and I'll be relying on my Hayne's manual. It can be pretty vague at times and the pictures aren't always the best. So if anyone has any tips, I'll read and use them. Thanks

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by watermellon View Post
                  It's been raining every evening since my last post and I hadn't any time to work on my festy. Well today I cleaned up the engine again and drove it a few blocks. I then lifted the hood and there was quite a bit of oil that had leaked out from the valve cover and was sprayed about by the fan. The valve cover gasket leaked a lot of oil, you could see where it was running out, then traveling down to the plugs, transmission, drive belt, and other areas. On that short 5 - 6 block round trip, there was even oil on the fan shroud...I assume it got there by the spray caused by the radiator fan.

                  I'll attempt replacing the valve cover gasket tomorrow since its forcast and supposed to rain anytime now.

                  My fesitva is fuel injected. Is there any special precautions I should take when I replace the gasket? I've never done one before and I'll be relying on my Hayne's manual. It can be pretty vague at times and the pictures aren't always the best. So if anyone has any tips, I'll read and use them. Thanks
                  I've done the VC gasket replacement on an EFI. The only thing you need to do to make sure that the gasket won't leak again is to clean both the head and valve cover surfaces where the gasket was before. I also added a little bit of liquid gasket around those surfaces just in case. Remove the intake pipe at the VAF and at the plenum, disconnect the hose and resonance chamber halfway up the intake, and the VC is wide open and ready to be unbolted.
                  Last edited by DriverOne; 06-19-2012, 03:22 PM.
                  In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright:
                  There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"

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                  • #24
                    IIRC, it can be a real "bear" to get the VC off with the throttle body still attached.
                    But, if memory serves me, it IS possible. You may have to crank the engine by hand to get the rocker arms in just the perfect spot.
                    Brian

                    93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                    04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                    62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                    1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                    Not enough time or money for any of them

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
                      IIRC, it can be a real "bear" to get the VC off with the throttle body still attached.
                      But, if memory serves me, it IS possible. You may have to crank the engine by hand to get the rocker arms in just the perfect spot.
                      I shaved my TB but it wasn't necessary according to folks on this site.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
                        IIRC, it can be a real "bear" to get the VC off with the throttle body still attached.
                        But, if memory serves me, it IS possible. You may have to crank the engine by hand to get the rocker arms in just the perfect spot.
                        Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                        I shaved my TB but it wasn't necessary according to folks on this site.
                        LOL I did the same thing the first VC change.(Dremel'd the valve cover)Then I realized you just need to "Bump" the engine over.drool I use a jumper @ the starter solenoid.:smilebox:
                        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                        • #27
                          I have the fel-pro perma-dry valve cover set. Do I have to coat the gasket with anything? It's a rubber gasket with 6 rubber things that I assume go where the 6 bolts go through the gasket. The instructions say:
                          1) clean mating surfaces of all foreign material (does that mean just wipe it down with a clean rag?)
                          2) check cover flanges for flatness
                          3)attach and align gasket. (Does that mean just insert it and no lubricant is necessary?)


                          The instructions don't even mention the 6 rubber things that I mentioned above. Do I have to install them?

                          Driverone, I'm not sure what you mean by "remove the intake pipe at the VAF and at the plenum." However, when that is done and "the hose and resonance chamber are disconnected", does that mean everything will be off the valve cover? Please bear with me, I've never done this before and I just want to make sure I've got everything down pat before I tackle this job. Thanks

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                          • #28
                            I clean the groove and apply black silicone and set the gasket in it. I lay the cover on the motor and install the bolts finger tight. I let the silicone dry for an hour or so then tighten to spec. Yes you need the rubber grommets.

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                            • #29
                              you need the gromets!! they go onto into the holes of the outside of the valve cover and keep you from crushing the gasket.

                              as far as installing the gasket, get the groove in the VC CLEAN!!!! and wipe the head's mating surface with a clean rag and carb clean. take the gasket ans let it lay out while you're removing the VC and cleaning the surfaces. get your handy can of Copper Gasket Maker spray and coat the head, VC groove, and gasket with it and ley it tack up before placing the gasket in the groove.

                              now reinstall the VC and enjoy a leak free top end!!!
                              Trees aren't kind to me...

                              currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                              94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                              • #30
                                I may be sounding redundant here but... is it ok to apply black silicone or Copper gasket maker spray to the fel pro perma dry gasket? Will any of these products disolve or wreck the perma-dry gaskets. I'm concerned that, if I don't apply the silicone or spray, the gasket might leak. But on the other hand if I do apply something, will it wreck the gasket. I dunno, maybe I'm worrying about nothing.

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