I had that issue. I'd drive and the car would do some funky stuff like noticeably drop power while cruising, then have a rough and jumpy idle, stall etc. The air filter had rubbed through the fusible links and grounded out the ignition wiring or was close enough to allow the wire to arc slightly. Remember... Electricity takes the path of least resistance.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Engine Cutting out
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by DON SVO View PostI had that issue. I'd drive and the car would do some funky stuff like noticeably drop power while cruising, then have a rough and jumpy idle, stall etc. The air filter had rubbed through the fusible links and grounded out the ignition wiring or was close enough to allow the wire to arc slightly. Remember... Electricity takes the path of least resistance.
Comment
-
Originally posted by windy1 View PostEither a clogged cat , fuel filter or fuel pump sock, might cause your problem.
Fuel filter has been changed 2000 miles ago and again recently
Fuel pump was replaced with a known good one
Still trying to figure it out
Comment
-
Originally posted by DON SVO View PostGood chance that your fusible links are grounding out. see if there is any bare wires on them, Personally I'd replace them with plug-in fuses just by proxy.
Still trying to figure it out..
Comment
-
Originally posted by windy1 View PostSVO might be right.Adding : have you ever pulled all your wiring connections in engine bay. And cleaned them? Even add an xtra ground connection .
negative battery cable ground at battery, frame and transmission.
ground from head to strut tower,
the wiring harness ground on the front of the engine just below the valve cover on the drivers side
and the fusible link block and replaced with new plug in links.
Please tell me where there are more grounds I can check..
Comment
-
Originally posted by Movin View PostDid you block the EGR yet? unplug the vacuum hose to it
Richard
Comment
-
You are quite right, there is no EGR. Sorry to send you on a goose chase it wasn't
intentional.
Two more things, You did not swap the O2? try that, if your exhaust manifold is
rusty you can try running a jumper cable from the 7/8 bolt thread to the battery
negative when it is acting up. It would be good to know if when it will barely idle
if you spray carb cleaner or propane into the plastic intake where the little L hose
attaches if you can make it idle good that way or if it is worse.Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig
Comment
-
OK, I have done/tried everything that was sugested here and then some. As of last evening the car would not stay running when it was hot. It would stall out. It would immediatly reatrt run a minute or two and stall again. I could do this all night long. T
Comment
-
Sorry, continuance from fat fingers on previous post
This was progress. It was to the point that it would die randomly and not restart. The last thing that I knew I had to do was swap out the radiator. The radiator had a piece of the plastic where the upper hose connects that was missing and was leaing around the top seam. I never let the car overheat or run out of coolant I was just procratinating replacing it until I figured out why it would not run. I basically ran the system with the cap loose.
Today the radiator arrived, swapped it out filled her up let it build pressure and run for 2 hours in the driveway keeping an eye out for leaks and fullness (did not go for a ride because I forgot to get tranny fliud). It ran flawlesly. I find it hard to believe this was the issue. I am far from a mechanic but
Comment
-
I did it again. I am so sorry..
I am far from a mechanic but I get by. Anyone have any thoughts concerning the radiator actually being the issue off it dieing when hot?? Also why does my idle drop when the electric fan comes on, charging systing is putting out 14.?? (dont remember) volts when whether it is on or off.
As for the radiator, I did tappets awhile back and I would rather do that job again than replace the radiator. Freakin tranny coolant lines sucked.
Comment
Comment