help please!?!!??

[shadetree]

Ck the ten pin connection under the battery . Just a guess but that's what happin to me . They were all green and broken .

[Movin]

If more than one are clicking then what ever burned has melted to something else.

[mgthrilla]

i couldn't tell if more than one was clicking i know i can check the main by unhookin the egi and the other one. i will take a look at that ten pin connector tonight to i seen where u was talking about that on one of ur threads.. thanks guys. i may take off early from work to get under the hood!!!!

[mgthrilla]

ok i just checked the ten pin connector all is fine there . i also opened up the wiring harness about 15in in both directions from where the fuseable links are and all the.wire is fine everywhere??? i also checked the circuit breakers one by one for clicking and none are clicking. the clicking i heard before was apparently come from behind the driver headlight..

[mgthrilla]

well i haven't managed to get it fixed yet or even been able to pinpoint the exact problem.... but good news i just scored me another 1991 gl model so i get it fixed soon enuff

[Pu241]

the clicking i heard before was apparently come from behind the driver headlight..

There 3 relays in a bundle in that area!

[FestYboy]

here you go!!!!!

fuel/ignition trouble tree:

first we need to verify the fuel pump will run.

1) start with the fuel pump test port: jump the black 2 pin plug located at the driverside strut tower (shaped like a "T") and then turn the key to the
"ON" position and listen for the pump (located directly under the rear seat that can be fliped forward for access to the pump cover (under the
carpet).

do you hear the pump? if yes, move on to test 4, if no, go to next test.

2) take DVOM and probe for power to pump at green/yellow wire (batt). you can backprobe the power wire by accessing the underside of the
pump cover and slipping a T pin into the connector (pump side).

do you have power at the T pin? if yes, test for ground at the green/white wire. if there's no ground, repair inertia wiring. if there IS ground,
check pump for continuity across the windings and inspect sub harness for burnt/corroded pins. (likely pump repalcement at this point).

3) If ther is no power at the T pin: back probe Injector harness wires yellow/black. If there is power at the yellow/black wire, replace the fuel
pump relay. if there is no power at the yel/blk wire, check for power at the EGI fuse. if there is power at the EGI fuse, replace the main relay.

4) test for power at the injector harness: with the pump test connector removed and key in the on position, test fot battery voltage at the
yellow/black wire (any of them) along the injector harness (use T pin as a back probe, do not unplug harness). if you're here from test 1, you
should see power. you should also see power at the green/yellow wires of the harness as well. if either of these conditions don't exsist, repair
the wireing.

4a) backprobe the green/yellow wire with a T pin. with a test light, connect between the T pin and ground. crank the engine: the light should
pulse. If it doesn't, suspect the distributor module.

5) test for proper VAF operation: with key on, backprobe VAF plug green/red wire and check for power. remove VAF plug, prop open the
flapper door and (on the VAF itself) check for continuity between pin 1 (where the green/red wire goes) and pin 2, 4 or 5 (black wires). check
for continuity at all black wires to ground (must have VAF plug disconnected). you should have power at the green/red, continuity between pin 1
and 2,4 and 5, and continuity to ground from all black wires.

do you have power? if yes, move on. if no, repair wire or repalce fuel pump relay.
do you have continuity within the VAF (green/red to black, pin test)? if no, replace VAF
do you have continuity to ground? if no, repaire wires.
Ignition!!!

6) With key on, check for power at ignition coil (backprobe BOTH the black/white and the yellow/green wires). If there is no power, repair wire
(from ignition switch). If you DON'T have power to the yellow/green wire, replace the coil.

7) With key on, backprobe the ignition control module plug both white and black wires. if there is no power to the white wire, repair the wire
(feeds directly from the coil yellow/green wire on the coil). if there is no power at the black wire, replace the ignition control module.

8 ) At the distributor, test for power at the yellow/black wire. test for continuity to ground from black wire.

9) back to the Ignition module! with a test light, backprobe the black wire and attach the test light to ground. while cranking, the light should
flash, if it does not, replace the distributor madule (bad pickup).

[Movin]

Nicccceeeee!!!! Lets try this out some it looks awesome!!