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  • #16
    The bushing sits on a shoulder. That is a set length that the factory wants that bushing squished too.

    Tighten till they stop. Period. Most people do NOT do this and it causes all kinds of issues, with handling, and tire wear.
    -Greg
    Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
    BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
    Redneck Engineer
    FOTY - '09
    5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

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    • #17
      Originally posted by TheresGabe View Post
      Problem solved. When I replaced the LCA's, I used the old cotter pin on the passenger side. Well... I guess it came out. The not on the sway bar, was on the 2nd to last thread! Tightened up, NEW cotter pin, and checked the other side which was fine, but I put a new cotter pin in it just for good measure. MUCH better!
      Huh. I had one magically disappear a year or so ago, popped my axle out too....Good thing you caught it!
      Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
      Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
      "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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      • #18
        I'm posting because this is my exact problem I'm having. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, better than a new one I'd guess.

        Two notes I've made: driver side sway bar to body bushing has a gap. I never loosened them when I replaced the control arms, didn't know any better. I only tightened the nut that holds the sway bar to the lca until I could get the cotter pin in, under the impression it'd just back out to that point anyways. Also, I just zipped the bolt into the nut on the lca's with my impact and verified tightness with the ratchet, to goodentight of course.

        The LCA's were replaced as well as inner and outer tie rods, new wheels and tires, sway bar to lca bushings when I did my Rio swap (best thing ever).

        I'm going to go verify the LCA to body bolts are still tight as well as the jam nuts on the tie rod ends and the ball joint spindle nut/bolt assemblies. Any other ideas? I most recently had the driver side apart to replace the axle but left under power and right under braking leads me to believe it's on the right side. Is my head on straight guys?
        93 Ford Festiva L 5 speed: In process of fixing PO's negligence

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        • #19
          steering rack, check for up and down or side to side play where the inner tie rod end screws into the rack. I've been having very similar issues and I've basically ruled everything else out. My car is getting scary to drive so I need to figure it out this weekend.
          2008 Kia Rio- new beater
          1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
          1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
          1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
          1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
          1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
          1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
          1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



          "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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          • #20
            Originally posted by zoom zoom View Post
            steering rack, check for up and down or side to side play where the inner tie rod end screws into the rack. I've been having very similar issues and I've basically ruled everything else out. My car is getting scary to drive so I need to figure it out this weekend.
            Me three! Only my car pulls to the right on accel and steers left when I shift. I replaced the sway bar bushings yesterday but that had no effect. I too am temporarily at a loss. Now, I did replace a LCA (and bushing) last week and it may be the wheel alignment is so far out now that I'm getting this as a consequence. When it stops raining I'll look some more.

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            • #21
              Yea mine was just pulling hard right on accel, and either way but fairly straight when braking..there is just a little of it trying to make up its mind what direction it wanted to go so it pretty much stayed straight.

              The peaspire was pulling really hard left every time it shifted and accelerating but that car had a little more pull than normal since I shaved the head .02" after I replaced the rack all that disappeared. I think it probably just depends on which side bushing is shot in the rack, ill know more tonite or tomorrow yesterday it got really bad and I don't even want to drive it!

              So far in the Festy I've replaced passenger side lca and axle, sway bar/lca bushings on both sides, front sway bar/rad support bushings, both ball joints seem like they're tight one looks new, but I did notice play in the passenger side of the steering rack while doing the axle. I need to rectify this so I can get a 4 wheel alignment done with my new rear camber shims
              Last edited by zoom zoom; 06-07-2013, 05:54 AM.
              2008 Kia Rio- new beater
              1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
              1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
              1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
              1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
              1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
              1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
              1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



              "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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              • #22
                Mine was loose buts on the sway bar. Il be doing a rebuilt rack soon too.
                93 Ford Festiva L 5 speed: In process of fixing PO's negligence

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                • #23
                  I held the aspire rack up, it looks like it will fit. ff.com member gomez was just here and he said it looks like a busted rack too. I'll be swapping mine shortly..
                  2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                  1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                  1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                  1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                  1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                  1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                  1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                  1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                  "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Bumpin' a dedicated thread for a dedicated issue.

                    Aspire, Rio struts up front with 1 wrap snipped.
                    All sway bar bushings tight. New bearings, new inner and outer rods, rack and pinion tight. Confirmed knuckle holes and pinch bolts tight.

                    Aligned twice. He took it down the road and back on rack, computer showed it returned with 0.2 degree difference. So she's tight.

                    I'm getting torque left, drag right pulls...

                    My next idea, is unibody tweak, so I though about finding some square stock from the idea pile, and span from tower to tower.

                    Ideas?

                    What about bracing else where? Motor mounts were nice when I did block swap, so that's confirmed, they aren't sloppy.



                    Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

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                    • #25
                      Check your alignment yourself I had mine on the rack 3 times and the guy kept telling me it was torque steer. So I went home grabbed a piece of angle stock had my son hold it at the center of the rear wheel while I held it to the front wheel and would you believe the right side was toed out and the left was toed in! Torque steer on accel poor alignment on decel. After tweaking and test driving my torque steer was reduced and the decel backlash is gone! Just don't get crazy with your adjustments 1/2 turn at a time.
                      Festiva/Mazda genetic splicing researcher B6T / G25MR for 5+ years and counting.
                      187.7 WHP @ 5500 RPM

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                      • #26
                        ^ checked. Nothing I can tell different from side to side

                        Goes down the road like an arrow, doesn't fight itself, and I can steer center no problem. I'm just rolling 8000 miles on no rotation and front tires look identical as far as depth on outers, centers and inners, and checked against the other steer tire in every which way.

                        Hmm..

                        Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

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                        • #27
                          has the suspention been looked at? (weak springs/struts) a weak spring on one side with a weak strut can cause a severe squat in that corner and thus the sensation of torque steer.
                          Trees aren't kind to me...

                          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                            has the suspention been looked at? (weak springs/struts) a weak spring on one side with a weak strut can cause a severe squat in that corner and thus the sensation of torque steer.
                            Yes.

                            Did it with 16yo aspire suspension.

                            Reolaced with 01' suspension.
                            Same results.



                            Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro
                            Last edited by jason_; 08-16-2013, 07:26 PM.

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                            • #29
                              I usually grab a tape measure, center the steering wheel, and measure the front of the tire, then measure the back, this will tell you how much it's off. Usually within an eighth of an inch.
                              1988 Ford Festiva "Sonic" BPT g25mr MS2 standalone ecu, FOTY '11, Best Beater FMV, Fan Favorite FMVI

                              1989 Ford Mustang GT 5.slow

                              1996 Ford F-150

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Flyin4stroke View Post
                                I usually grab a tape measure, center the steering wheel, and measure the front of the tire, then measure the back, this will tell you how much it's off. Usually within an eighth of an inch.
                                It's near dead on.

                                Reason I suggested unibody tweak in my first post.

                                It barely pulls with engine drag or neutral coast. Goes wild left on wot, especially in 2nd and 3rd.

                                Slow and long distance, but I can steer on straight aways if the road is fresh and clean just using throttle.

                                Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro
                                Last edited by jason_; 08-16-2013, 07:29 PM.

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