New Fuel Pump.

[Coldhand]

I didn't know how much dirt had gotten into my gas tank. The dirt clogged the injectors and the fuel filter. The pump caused the 30 amp fuse to blow. So, I removed fuel tank and cleaned it out. I put the clean, dry tank back in. Since I had it out and the pump filter was clogged I decided to replace pump assembly. I installed a walbro 255 for an Eagle Talon. One tie-wrap, the +12 and ground had to be butt-spliced (blacks ground and blue-red positive) so the pump connector and fuel sending unit assembly connector can both be used. I put all back together, add 4 gallons and attempted to start car. No unmistakable walbo whine. Car would not start.
Next: checked fuse with meter, good. Checked inertia switch, it's good.
Pulled off connector to sending unit assembly and measured a good ground through inertia switch and 11volts on the 12volt side.
I next pulled the pump out and removed the walbro pump connector to measure continuity from top sending unit connector to pump connector. It measured a good connection.
I will next pull out the pump and remove from the assembly, and run 12 and ground to pump to see if it comes on.
I think I need a new, new pump.

[bravekozak]

There is a VAF switch which shuts of power to the fuel pump relay after a specified number of seconds. If all the fuel had drained out after you replaced your tank, maybe it just needs a little more priming.

[Team Lightning]

Shouldn't there be about 13-14 volts instead of 11? Most batteries that are fully charged are around 13-14 volts.

[Coldhand]

I turned the key with an external line for testing. The pump never turned on. My warbro experience is they are unmistakeable when they are on.
I think my battery has been drained from cranking. I mentioned it wondering if maybe that voltage was too low for the pump to start but I thought against it.

[Team Lightning]

Id charge the battery anyway.

[Movin]

As long as the voltage stays above ten volts when hooked up, it should go.

[Coldhand]

Update:
Pump is working. There was a bad connection on the connector that goes from the sending unit to the actual pump. I had to disassemble connector to repair. This goes inside the gas tank, what could possibly go wrong?
By the way this walbro is very quiet, can't hear it over the radiator fan. (Jumpered to be on with ignition, not worried about engine not warming up).

[bravekozak]

Not a good idea to bypass the safety.
If the ignition key remains on in the event of an accident...
I recommend wiring back up to the VAF circuit.
I have a carb (no VAF) with a stock electric pump.
I wired it to a Revolution which monitors the tach pulse.
Safety is not negotiable.

[ryanprins13]

How did you end up replying to a thread thats almost 5 years old? [emoji14]
Good info for anyone who searches though...

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[bravekozak]

I noticed another member viewing this thread and felt that I had a moral obligation to respond.
I knew it was an old thread. Just waiting for someone to post the oldest post of the day smiley...

The correct expression should be "Quality is not negotiable". I like to use that a lot on the job.

[ryanprins13]

Ah, i see

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