Antifreeze is important!!

[Movin]

I also warm it up, then drive it up a hill and back. Taking out the tstat gets a little better velocity but it is harder to get the temp up to where the detergent is designed to work. Letting it idle until the cooling fan turns on then revving the engine within reason seems to help. Drive it for a day, time is definitely an important element when cleaning stuff, my hot water washer seems to like 20 minutes to wash parts super clean

Burp an engine? I have a tool that evacuates all air then sucks in the new coolant. With out the tool it is really hard to get all the air out. Those little coolant hoses, pick the highest one and leave the end off until coolant comes out then put it on and top it off.

Quantity? My box didn't come with a scoop but I would guess I used about a 1/4 cup per "cycle"

If stop leak or scum is sealing a gasket type leak that will get worse. A water pump seal could go either way. Thin soft plugs..at least they will be clean to work on!

[Movin]

So what is the system cleaner called? Can we, Festy owners, buy it? Where can we buy it? I can't find Cascade without additives anywhere local.

Any Dishwasher machine soap, years ago my wife told me the brand cascade did the dishes best. Before she got hurt she worked in sterile in the surgery unit at our Hospital so I trust her judgement! She said it will not be sterile but will be sanitized..LOL whatever that means.

[Movin]

Well I put a cup of Cascade for a big pitcher of water, working on rinsing right now, after draining the mix with the cascade it came out green because of the leftover coolant still left in the system. The first rinse came out clouded with a hint of brown and green. Got my second rinse in there now, looks like it will be more of the same, if not worse than the first rinse.

I hate how these engines get on the brink of overheating before sucking the water into the engine. Am I doing something wrong? Am I supposed to remove the thermostat when doing this?
I leave the radiator cap off to allow the system to burp, but water/coolant doesn't start flowing into the engine until I see steam coming from around the engine itself. It is scaring the hell out of me, I am afraid I am doing damage.

I always just dumped it in, but I like the pitcher of hot water idea, awesome!

[Movin]

Movin -

Hey, THANKS for the info. Will have to take off my radiator cap and see what condition my radiator/fluid is in.

So, question for you....

did the preacher with the ultra-clean radiator tell you what kind of dish detergent he was using or is just using your "orange scented cascade" good enough?

BTW, your Cascade is in liquid detergent form, correct?

And, what is the quantity of Cascade per radiator fill you're using? Yeah, I see what the minister was using for an amount, but what about you?

Thanks!

That was years ago, but I have always used the granulated type. It is hard to pour enough. That hot water premix with a cup is a great idea! My 1/4 cup shots were working but I think more would be better.

[TorqueEffect]

you need to leave the cap on or it will not pressurize the system right and force it through the engine.

Then how is the air in the system expelled? According to the Haynes manual I did it correctly, but I wish the cooling system section of my shop manual wasn't missing.

[Movin]

I did my first cycle with the cap off, it was so dirty it needed dumped. The second one after I ran it a bit and was sure it was full I put the cap on and drove it.

The important part is you got it warm enough to work and it came out dirty!

Just like anything in a manual there are different ways to do the same job, some may be better!

[htc]

Ah ha! Yet another item on my to-do list. I've gotta replace a leaky drain cock anyway, perfect timing Movin!

[sc72]

Give this a try it worked for me, its along the lines of what Movin is saying. Good luck

The PROPER fix is to flush the cooling system with a stripping chemical, to remove all the silica sediment that's lining the coolant passages, and preventing the heat from being transfered to the coolant! Otherwise, you're just aggravating the problem by blocking airflow from the rad. Silica sediment is thermally non-conductive, and prevents the excess heat in the cylinders and head from being transfered to the coolant. This causes localized overheating within the cylinders, and a low temp reading on the gauge and low heat output in the cabin. Flush the cooling system with Cascade powdered dish detergent. First drain all the coolant and flush with clear water. Then fill the system with clear water and one cup of Cascade. Let it idle till it reaches operating temp, then run it a 2k RPM for 2-3 minutes. Shut it down, and let it cool till pressure is releived from the system. Drain while still hot/warm. Allow to cool more, then fill with clear water only, and repeat the heat cycle. Drain and flush with clear water, then refill with 50/50 coolant/water.


Jim DeAngelis

kittens give Morbo gas!!



90 L - not yet sure of it's fate...
Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)

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