Sputters ..

[FestYboy]

compression should be in the 160-180 range, if it's below 100, you've got real issues. you're also looking for variations between cylinders.

[muleskinner]

What is the compression supposed to be ?

For manifold vacuum test.
Normal reading: Needle between 15 & 22 inches & holding steady.

Normal reading for rapid acceleration & deceleration when engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to 0) reading. When thrttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.

[muleskinner]

What is the compression supposed to be ?

Pressure variation between the highest and lowest cylinders should be within 75% of one another. Example: If the highest cylinder reads 134 psi & the lowest reads 101 psi then the 101 psi is within 75% of the 134 psi.

-When taking compression readings, watch the action of the guage needle. When it raises only a small amount on the first stroke, a little more on the succeeding strokes & ends up with a very low reading, then burned, warped, or sticky valves are indicated.
-A low build up on the first stroke with gradual build up on succeeding strokes, to a moderate reading, can mean worn, stuck, or scored rings.
-If two adjacent cylinders are low, a blown head gasket or warped head to block surface could be responsible.

:from Ford Festiva shop manual.

[FestYboy]

^ that's not compression....

a compression reading is taken from the spark plug hole and measures how much pressure the cylinder can create under the power stroke (usually takes 5-6 strokes to settle out...) all plugs are to be removed and the throttle stuck OPEN before cranking the engine. the battery must be in good condition or better yet, be assisted by a charger unit for testing.

[muleskinner]

^ that's not compression....

a compression reading is taken from the spark plug hole and measures how much pressure the cylinder can create under the power stroke (usually takes 5-6 strokes to settle out...) all plugs are to be removed and the throttle stuck OPEN before cranking the engine. the battery must be in good condition or better yet, be assisted by a charger unit for testing.

Yes, on the first post responding to Dom, I realised that and changed it to Manifold vacuum test. Sorry about that. :nono:

[Movin]

Also according to the shop manual diagnostic, the car lacking power/sputters .... hang on to your seat!
Vacuum distribution:
-vacuum leaks/cloggs.
Induction:
-air duct hoses
-filter element
-vane airflow meter
-throttle plate(s) & linkage
-throttle body gasket
Cooling:
-Coolant level
Fuel delivery:
-Filter
-pump
-Low pressure filter
-lines
-Pressure regulator
-injectors
Base engine:
-Compression check
-Camshaft out of line
-Worn camshaft lobes
-Weak or broken valve spring
-Sticking, damaged, or worn piston rings
-Malfunction of hydraulic lash
-Adjusters (HLA)
-Blown cylinder head
-gasket or cracked or distorted cylinder head
-seized valve stem or guides
-cracked or worn piston or cylinder
Ignition:
-Scope engine for: spark plugs, coil, secondary wires, distriibutor cap & rotor.
Exhaust:
-components restricted
Carb:
-Components
EGR:
-Components
Iginition timing:
-Base plus advance and retard functions

There are other diagnostics for Stalls/quits & Stumbles/hesitates during accelerations

I know you have fixed or checked some of this. If you checked, check again. If you like the car, don't give up. You will find the problem.

Since I purchased my 89 Festiva for $800 I have put over $1500 into it & I still have to put more into it to get it to where I like it. I'm going to start purchasing some more tools so I can do my own work ...... like the rear wheel bearings.

And you wonder why we ask a few questions when you have something wrong!!

[Dom]

what would be the symptoms of a bad VAF meter ?

[nitrofarm]

Dom dont worry @ the VAF. You have a MECHANICAL problem right now. Find out why the belt isn't keeping time. You need to hone in on that single(HUGE) issue right now.Your car & this thread are dead in the water till you figure that out. FYI there aren't a whole lot of scenarios why a B3 wont keep mechanical timing. Focus on that issue & correct it.

[FestYboy]

^ that's what I've been saying!!! lol

[Dom]

I hear ya guys ,, im working on it.. thanks

[Dom]

Finally got it running again , i guess from the timing being off it fouled up the spark plugs that what was causing the sputtering. so that is all fixed but now just realized that my speedometer is not working what gives can i guy just get a break,lol, what can cause a speedometer not to work ?

[Flyin4stroke]

Whoa! I feel like I just read through a sitcom. Takes me back to there's a screw loose between the gas pedal and the steering wheel. Good stuff hahahaha

[FestYboy]

dom, pull the speeedo cable from it's sheath, look for damage or breakage (typical).

[Dom]

Whoa! I feel like I just read through a sitcom. Takes me back to there's a screw loose between the gas pedal and the steering wheel. Good stuff hahahaha

Maybe you should have stopped reading the post and it would not have felt you were reading through a sitcom guy...!

[Flyin4stroke]