Electrical Problem

[bravekozak]

Next test: Coil Resistance, to see if your coil is good.
Who knows what the coil specs are?

[bravekozak]

Ignition coil resistance test.

[jbrown]

The coil is good I just bought a new one. It has to be the computer or wiring or something that gives the computer power.

[nitrofarm]

The coil is good I just bought a new one. It has to be the computer or wiring or something that gives the computer power.

Did you test the ICM?

[Jblair]

Black wire near brake booster. All by itself, there are a few wires, it has a black spade connector, plug a spade connector in, hook a wire anyware to ground (i slip my wire into coil bolt area) turn key to hot. Cel light should turn on, maybe it will blink, if it does look up the trouble codw in your manuel. Try to start the car. This grounds the PCM and by passes the OBD sensors. It makes the car run in base mode. , for some reason when i had spark issues this worked. I replaced entire ignition except distributor, still would start. I started checking for blink codes with pcm ground and it like reset itself and started. I would also clean the motor ground, one on passenger side, take bolt off and clran and sand contact area. That ground is inportant and i noticed a difference when i cleaned it.

[jbrown]

My uncle tested the ICM and said it was good. I will clean those grounds and hook that sti to a ground.

[jbrown]

No light or spark when I grounded the sti wire. Any other ideas?

[nitrofarm]

J did you notice the wiring diagrams I linked you on #15? (Not sure if you have schematics) The W/R wire at the ECM is your 12V power. Also the Vacuum "Purge Solenoid" is an "Output" off of the ECM. You.You might want to see if that solenoid is getting power in key "Run". I would tell you to try a good "Used" ECM but I believe you still have a short and may damage it during testing.....

[db2u]

It was up and running, and well. Well then my know it all uncle decides that the distributor is not in there perfect and needs to tweak it a little to the right and claims to have watched the main fusible link cartridge get orange and blow. It was a 30A because I could not find a 40A at the time. So I replaced that and no spark once again.

Guys, lets try to simplify here, is there anything that this ^^^ could have moved to short out his electrical system? What runs near the distributor that could blow the Fuse link?

[jbrown]

So if I go to pick a part today and get an ECM it isn't suggested I put it in even though when my car did start and ran great for a little bit of time before that fusible link blew. Besides the charge light being on which I am pretty sure it is just because the battery was pretty low. Like we had to jump it and then it was running. What could have happened?

[nitrofarm]

So if I go to pick a part today and get an ECM it isn't suggested I put it in even though when my car did start and ran great for a little bit of time before that fusible link blew. Besides the charge light being on which I am pretty sure it is just because the battery was pretty low. Like we had to jump it and then it was running. What could have happened?

Charge light on with key on engine OFF is NORMAL.
Did you test the ECM input wire for 12 V at all times? This will tell you that your MAIN was wire correctly by the mechanic AND the "Room" circuit is good right up to the ECM.
I'm sure you want your car running but you dont want to chance frying a new "Used" ECM.

[bravekozak]

The ECM has nothing to do with a no spark condition. Does the replacement ignition coil you installed meet the impedance specs in the shop manual?
If not, the Ignition control module in your distributor will be fried and you will not get a spark.

[jbrown]

Yes the impedance is spec. It ran and the charge light was on but it was because the battery was low before the fusible link blew. The ICM is not in the 93 distributor. It is off to the side and tested fine. The pick up and Cam position sensor I just replaced the disty. It is wired right to the room circuit just gotta check past that to the ECM. It ran with what was in there it just popped the fusible link and I am back to a no start.

[bravekozak]

You removed, wire-wheeled, re-installed the ground cables to the engine block (both sides)? And to the body?
You've got juice to the coil. You just have to follow it to the plug.

[nitrofarm]

The ECM has nothing to do with a no spark condition. Does the replacement ignition coil you installed meet the impedance specs in the shop manual?
If not, the Ignition control module in your distributor will be fried and you will not get a spark.

The CPS & ICM are both wired as inputs into the ECM. Not sure how you could get spark without the ECM collapsing the coil field?