The ECM has nothing to do with a no spark condition. Does the replacement ignition coil you installed meet the impedance specs in the shop manual?
If not, the Ignition control module in your distributor will be fried and you will not get a spark.
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Originally posted by jbrown View PostSo if I go to pick a part today and get an ECM it isn't suggested I put it in even though when my car did start and ran great for a little bit of time before that fusible link blew. Besides the charge light being on which I am pretty sure it is just because the battery was pretty low. Like we had to jump it and then it was running. What could have happened?
Did you test the ECM input wire for 12 V at all times? This will tell you that your MAIN was wire correctly by the mechanic AND the "Room" circuit is good right up to the ECM.
I'm sure you want your car running but you dont want to chance frying a new "Used" ECM.
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So if I go to pick a part today and get an ECM it isn't suggested I put it in even though when my car did start and ran great for a little bit of time before that fusible link blew. Besides the charge light being on which I am pretty sure it is just because the battery was pretty low. Like we had to jump it and then it was running. What could have happened?
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Originally posted by jbrown View PostIt was up and running, and well. Well then my know it all uncle decides that the distributor is not in there perfect and needs to tweak it a little to the right and claims to have watched the main fusible link cartridge get orange and blow. It was a 30A because I could not find a 40A at the time. So I replaced that and no spark once again.
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J did you notice the wiring diagrams I linked you on #15? (Not sure if you have schematics) The W/R wire at the ECM is your 12V power. Also the Vacuum "Purge Solenoid" is an "Output" off of the ECM. You.You might want to see if that solenoid is getting power in key "Run". I would tell you to try a good "Used" ECM but I believe you still have a short and may damage it during testing.....
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My uncle tested the ICM and said it was good. I will clean those grounds and hook that sti to a ground.
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Black wire near brake booster. All by itself, there are a few wires, it has a black spade connector, plug a spade connector in, hook a wire anyware to ground (i slip my wire into coil bolt area) turn key to hot. Cel light should turn on, maybe it will blink, if it does look up the trouble codw in your manuel. Try to start the car. This grounds the PCM and by passes the OBD sensors. It makes the car run in base mode. , for some reason when i had spark issues this worked. I replaced entire ignition except distributor, still would start. I started checking for blink codes with pcm ground and it like reset itself and started. I would also clean the motor ground, one on passenger side, take bolt off and clran and sand contact area. That ground is inportant and i noticed a difference when i cleaned it.
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The coil is good I just bought a new one. It has to be the computer or wiring or something that gives the computer power.
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Next test: Coil Resistance, to see if your coil is good.
Who knows what the coil specs are?
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Where is the PCM sti wire? And there is twelve volts going to the coil which is weird that it wont start, and I do not think it is the ICM because the computer is not communicating (according to the little light in my dash.). So it is not getting the "You should spark now" Signal. From the distributor from the computer. If thats the way it works.
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Plug your PCM sti wire to ground and try to start it. I had a big issue with my electrical, i grounded the PCM and it started. Same deal as you. Just try it, it may do nothing but it may work and its easy.good luck.
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Yes the main relay energizes in RUN and supplies power to the fuel pump relay, crankshaft position sensor and injectors. It is very important.
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