Electrical Problem

[dwhite]

i dont know much about cars but ive been told before to check every part individualy\ or try to bypass a part and see if the results change ive done it plenty of times and it always seemed to work yes itll take a while.

[bravekozak]

The ignition module is grounded. I believe it collapses the field, not the ECA.
Do a test and disconnect the blue/orange wire running from the Ignition module to pin G of the ECA. If it stops running, you win. Disconnect the ignition module ground. If it stops running, I win.

Per Ford shop manual:
Ignition Module: Receives a Profile Ignition Pulse (PIP) signal from a pickup coil (located inside the distributor), and it also receives the spark output (SPOUT) signal from the ECA. The ignition spark timing is corrected according to the PIP and SPOUT signals. The corrected IDM (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) signal is sent to the coil and the ECA.

If I'm not mistaken, the blue/orange wire is used to advance the spark as the altitude increases. Can anyone confirm this? Is the barometric pressure transducer on the ECA?

[jbrown]

So the light was burned out. It is communicating. Now to everything else. Went and got a new coil under warranty getting a new ICM at 3 o clock. The disty should be fine. What else can I do to make this run?

[scitzz]

I can confirm the ECM being fried can result in a no spark situation. I can also say that an alternator going bad can fry the ECM. Just had that happen last November. OP says the charge light was on. The charge light does not come on for a low battery, jbrown, it comes on because there is not enough juice coming from the alternator. When I had this problem, I pulled the alternator, and had it tested. It was putting out enough amperage to run the car, barely, but it also was pouring almost 28 volts into the system. I fried a second ECM before figuring this out.

[bravekozak]

What a horror story. Absolutely terrible.

[jbrown]

Ok new ICM, replaced coil, dashlights are out but the check engine light is on with key on engine off, new used distributor, new starter. No spark. What is wrong with my car guys? My next plan is a short cliff. Except not because I love my car.

[scitzz]

I reiterate, get your alternator checked. Another symptom that I experienced was blown lights. All my dash lights were blown out, had to replace every bulb. One of my LED tag lights fried, my brake lights as well. If your alternator fails testing, five gets you ten you also fried your ECM.

Key on, engine off, your check engine is SUPPOSED to be on, this is to let you know it works. It goes off if all is well when the car starts.

[jbrown]

Ok sweet because it blew every bulb in my dash except for the oil. I suggested the alternator. I'll pull and go test tomorrow. And when I put a new bulb in the CEL slot it came back on so fingers crossed I can just use my last hundred if the alternator is toast and move on. Would that really keep it from sparking?

[tooldude]

You answered my question before I could ask, all of your dash lights blew added to the main fuse meltdown. If that's not an overvoltage situation I can't believe it. I would say that's what knocked out the electronics in your first distributor and probably the second one too-it's the only thing you haven't replaced since the car last ran. The ignition is very simple. Other than the basics, wiring, connections, voltages, the spark is generated from the distributor(CPS), ignition coil, ICM, and ECA/ECU (electronic timing control). The coil gets 12.6V directly from the ignition switch. The ICM is ungrounded by the ECA for spark generation/timing (SPOUT signal--created from the CPS input voltage). If the distributors are all the same for the FI cars, there should be 1.5V from the CPS signal terminal (Y/BL) that has to reach ECA terminal 2E. With the distr. harness connector unplugged, the CPS should have 210-250 Ohms resistance at the distr. terminals that mate with the BK(GND) and Y/BL(Signal) wires, Y/BK being VPWR and the 4th terminal shown unused.

[jbrown]

I think my first distributor is good because after I replaced it there was still a no start. The starter was drawing to much then it started and fried the link and dashlights. But it would explain why I had the charge light on before... well it stopped.

[scitzz]

Ok sweet because it blew every bulb in my dash except for the oil. I suggested the alternator. I'll pull and go test tomorrow. And when I put a new bulb in the CEL slot it came back on so fingers crossed I can just use my last hundred if the alternator is toast and move on. Would that really keep it from sparking?

The alternator throwing out too much voltage fried my ECU, which is what was keeping me from getting spark. So if your alternator turns out to be bad, you will have to replace it, AND the ECU. Get the results of your test first. most McParts stores can give you a printout now. If not, record all the data, how much voltage, amps, etc.

This was mine when tested.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202065441054185&set=a.3282305093098.152580.1131711909&type=3&theater

[nitrofarm]

His scenario is making sense now. I bet when the "Uncle" turned the dizzy it gave the engine more rpms. Thus giving the Alt the ability to put out even more voltage.And because voltage alone wont blow fuse's, it took out the voltage sensitive electronics. Thats my best guess, and if his Alt test's Bad.I think he should be safe to put in a new ECM once the new Alt is installed. What to you fellas think?

[bravekozak]

I disagree. For the 40A MAIN fusible link to glow and melt, there has to be a short to ground. Unless it grounded through your alternator. Check again.

[nitrofarm]

Well if the voltage was UN-Regulated, the amperage output was also. And IIRC these Alt's can put out over 60 amps. And the only thing in between the ALT & Battery is that main fuselink. Thats what I think may have happened. Time will tell if it passes the "SMOKE" test.

[tooldude]

In his first post he states he only had a 30 amp fuse put in.