Electrical Problem

[jbrown]

My alt tested fine. The CEL is on with key ON engine OFF. Could the Main Electrical relay not be grounding? What could not be grounding. I scotch brited all of the grounding points.

[scitzz]

My alt tested fine.

Well shoot. There goes THAT excellent idea! You took it out and had it tested at a parts store? How many volts was it putting out?

The CEL should be on with the engine off.

[jbrown]

Yes I know so the ECM isn't fried. Lucky day. They did not give me a print out but I took it to two stores and got it tested at each one and they said it was good.

[tooldude]

Well, something burned out a pretty big fuse, possibly there was an internal short in the ignition switch or the hot wire feeding the ign switch. Is voltage sustained at the coil during cranking and is it above 10V?

[tooldude]

So possibly: no bulbs were fried, the main fuse simply gave out during a heavy charge, and the problem was that the CPS failed and was replaced by what, a used CPS or reman? I had to replace my distributor with a "remanufactured" one and the electrical parts are not replaced if they test OK. Either way you may have a CPS that has failed again. You need a signal from the CPS, sustained voltage at the coil, a SPOUT signal from the ECA, and good ICM, then you will have spark. All of these can be tested.

[scitzz]

Well, something burned out a pretty big fuse, possibly there was an internal short in the ignition switch or the hot wire feeding the ign switch. Is voltage sustained at the coil during cranking and is it above 10V?

I once tried getting home on a 30 amp fuse, had to change it 3 times in approx 13 miles. The 40 was blown by another dummy hooking up his jumper cables backwards. Turned out I had no 40's, but a pant load of 30's. At the house, put in a 40, rolled ever since.

[tooldude]

Trying to cheat electricity is like trying to cheat arithmetic.

[scitzz]

Trying to cheat electricity is like trying to cheat arithmetic.

Imma steal dat

[jbrown]

Ok so I restarted school and have not had time(Biking 24 miles roundtrip has killed my evening time). I replaced the ICM with a brand new one from AutoZone. And the voltage at the coil is there. But I am not sure how to check the SPOUT Signal (Spark OUT right?) and how to I test that CPS sensor? As fit as I am getting I want my baby back!

[scitzz]

Yes I know so the ECM isn't fried. Lucky day. They did not give me a print out but I took it to two stores and got it tested at each one and they said it was good.

I would say we don't know that the ECU isn't fried. Running out of things to test!

I disagree. For the 40A MAIN fusible link to glow and melt, there has to be a short to ground. Unless it grounded through your alternator. Check again.

Well, he said he blew the 30AMP fuse, right?

jbrown, you DID replace with a 40A, did you not? That still isn't blown?

Do you have access to another ECU that you can plug in for S&G's?

Ok so I restarted school and have not had time(Biking 24 miles roundtrip has killed my evening time). I replaced the ICM with a brand new one from AutoZone. And the voltage at the coil is there. But I am not sure how to check the SPOUT Signal (Spark OUT right?) and how to I test that CPS sensor? As fit as I am getting I want my baby back!

The CPS is in the disty, didn't you already replace that?

[jbrown]

Yes replaced disty with a remanufactured one. Did replace with 40 amp. Ended up rewiring to fuse panel becuase I thought that box was the problem.

[tooldude]

SPOUT-spark output, a signal from the ECA to the ICM to break it's ground, allowing spark. OK, you said you replaced the distr., then car cranked up and ran but then quit again, correct? You didn't answer my question about the type of replacement, I had to assume a used CPS, and therefore a POSSIBILITY it failed again. I will give you a test procedure if you want, it will take me some time to post it.

[scitzz]

I will give you a test procedure if you want, it will take me some time to post it.

Shoot, I want that test procedure! You don't know of a way to test the ICM while you are at it, do you?

[jbrown]

Yes a test for that and spark output would help me tremendously.

[tooldude]

OK, answered while I was off. The "remanufactured" distr. may have a used sensor that tested OK and was reused. With the harness connector unplugged from the distributor and the clip/raised part oriented on top, the connections, left to right are: 1st(BK)--GND; 2nd(Y/BK)--VPWR; 3rd(Y/BK also)--CPS(signal); 4th-unused in schematic. Voltage must come off that signal wire and make it to ECA terminal 2E-the specification I am finding is 1.5V . You have to backprobe the wire, make jumpers, or pierce the wire (not recommended, but if you pierce any wire it should be resealed). You need either a high impedence voltmeter or test light(so called"computer safe"). You can also remove the connector, jump VPWR & GND, then test for voltage at the disty terminal (that connects to CPS signal on the harness connector). The test is for voltage while cranking.