So I jack up the front end to spin my front tires..

[jimdigs]

Not saying you can do one that fast. But they are not hard. If you have basic mechanical skills you can do it in a Sat morning.
Everyone thinks they are hard because if you screw em up. You get to do it again inside of 5000 miles.
Take your time, use the spacer that's in there and buy timkin bearings.

I might give it a shot. I know I need to rent a press kit but what other tooling do you suggest I get. Do I need a puller to get the hub off and the tie rod as well?

[koRnhead]

You don't need a press kit. As far as getting stuff apart. It depends on how recently that stuff has been apart.
I just tap around the tie rod end with a hammer and it will pop out quickly.
Get it all back together and use your impact to spin the axle nut tight. Take it for a spin around the block. And come back and torque it. And your done. No press kit needed. And you won't ruin the bearings either.
Most important thing is to get the timkin bearings. The cheapo ones just suck.

[jimdigs]

Ok, I'll let ya know if I give it a go this weekend. I don't have an impact by the way.

[koRnhead]

Buy a cheapo electric impact at harbor freight......you will want one for this job.

[jimdigs]

So the growling seems to quiet some as I'm turning to the left, so which wheel bearing does this suggest is bad?

[koRnhead]

Left. They go quiet when you turn into them.

[jimdigs]

Whats the best way to get the bearings in and out without a press tool? Wood block and a hammer? Chisel and hammer to get em out?

[jimdigs]

Left. They go quiet when you turn into them.

When I'm driving it sure sounds like all the noise is coming from the right, passenger side. BUT when I did have it jacked up last weekend the left, driver side was the only wheel that had play in it.

[koRnhead]

Its definitely the left side......and yes. A hammer and a block of wood will work. We have a lathe in the shop. So we made a tool that fits in to pound them apart.

[nitrofarm]

You have play from 12 to 3 o'clock? Never heard of that........ 12 to 6 or 9 to 3 would be the way to check it. Obviously you shouldn't have any play from 12 to 6 if you do its either your LCA,broken upper strut mount or wheel bearing. Take of the caliper and spin the rotor listen for grinding. You'll be able to compare left to right.Just cuz it grinds when cornering doesn't mean it has to be a bearing. It could be the axle running with no grease! And if you think your diff bearing has failed grab the axle where it goes into the tranny case and wiggle. I dont think you diff bearing has failed just telling you how to do a cursery check. But before you change your bearings ( do both at the same time !) pull the caliper and do a comparison. You can also turn the wheel all the way left or right and listen to the axle. But its really hard to "Hear" a bad axle just by spinning it by hand under "no Load". But a bad bearing is EASY TO HEAR without the caliper on,just turn it back and forth. It should be resistive but smooth and quite.

[jimdigs]

You have play from 12 to 3 o'clock? Never heard of that........ 12 to 6 or 9 to 3 would be the way to check it. Obviously you shouldn't have any play from 12 to 6 if you do its either your LCA,broken upper strut mount or wheel bearing. Take of the caliper and spin the rotor listen for grinding. You'll be able to compare left to right.Just cuz it grinds when cornering doesn't mean it has to be a bearing. It could be the axle running with no grease! And if you think your diff bearing has failed grab the axle where it goes into the tranny case and wiggle. I dont think you diff bearing has failed just telling you how to do a cursery check. But before you change your bearings ( do both at the same time !) pull the caliper and do a comparison. You can also turn the wheel all the way left or right and listen to the axle. But its really hard to "Hear" a bad axle just by spinning it by hand under "no Load". But a bad bearing is EASY TO HEAR without the caliper on,just turn it back and forth. It should be resistive but smooth and quite.

I meant 12 and 6, don't know why I wrote 3?? DUH. So here is what I have done so far...I took it to a local shop, they test drove it and thought it was a wheel bearing they then put it on the lift and found the passenger side is the bad bearing but the drivers side does have play in it but its not making any noise (yet). Maybe like you suggest nitro, something else broke on the drivers side. When I push up and down on the hood of the drivers side I do hear a clunk sound???
I started to take apart the knuckle yesterday, I had to stop and start a lot cuz I had a migraine. I will continue today and see how far I can get. I need to get the control arm loose and then take the strut bolts off holding the knuckle on and then the fun really begins. I have no idea how I'm gonna get the pressed on bearing off of the hub. The local performance automotive place will press them in and out for a fee. I may have to go that route if I can't get the bearing and seal off the hub. We shall see.

[Chobobulous]

I used a bearing puller I got from harbor freight.

[jimdigs]

knuckle

So I finally get the knuckle off. I ruined the rubber seal on the control arm, is there an easy way to fix this? I hope so. Here is a picture of that.

Also, is this the way the inner seal is supposed to be in? Looks like it is in backwards to me?

[koRnhead]

Yup....New control arm.

[jimdigs]

OH MAN!!! So I can't get the hub separated from the knuckle, I take it to performance auto and they were going to charge me $45 to press it off and put it all back together bearings and all. I drop it off this a.m. for them to do it and when I get home they call me and tell me the knuckle is ruined. Someone took a torch to the inside and put a hole thru the wall of the knuckle and tried to seal it up with silicone. Said the race was ruined and so was the knuckle. What a jerk. I have had this guy (not the performance auto guy) do two other front wheel bearings for me and this time he ruined this one bad. Does anyone know where I can get a knuckle and hub. Luckily the preload shim is ok.