Washed engine bay now wont start

[Cory_Thurmond]

Ttt cant figure out how to test distributor

Still wont fire after 48 hrs of 70degree weather.

I have power to the plug to distributors 2 yellow wires and none on third

I have power constant from coil wire while ignition is on.

Should the rotor button have constant power while ignition is on?

Waiting on my battery to charge atm

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[ryanprins13]

I think its the distributor. I found this using google, but i didnt finish reading it to see what the guys problem ended up being. It has info on checking for voltage on that 3rd wire going to the dist.

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/3a9n7-1993-ford-festiva-keeps-loosing-spark.html

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[Cory_Thurmond]

I read that last night and the guy end up just replacing dizzy...i guess ill order one when i get paid

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[ryanprins13]

Are you able to test yours for the 5v while its turning? Do you have another festiva owner friend nearby that is willing to let you try their distributor? It would suck to buy a new one and have it not be that.


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[Cory_Thurmond]

I cant turn the key and test it alone unfortunately

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[nonamekid]

Just use a jumper wire from the positive to the single pin on the starter. Then you can crank it while you are testing it.

[Cory_Thurmond]

Lol i only have 2 hands but ill see what i can do

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[tooldude]

The distr. is a suspect here but you might try your luck by spraying some electrical cleaner behind the assembly. I spent a lot of time trying to find a spec on the EFI distributor for a recent post - only one place I was able to find anything, the 1991 Engine/Emissions Diagnosis Manual. Posted: distr. input is 1.5V measured to ground, cranking & with ECA disconnected. You should be able to jump the distr terminals and avoid disconnecting the ECA plug. So where did the tech in the link get the 5.0V? Possibly he assumed that as a common sensor value(?) even as he assumed the ECA is a PCM? (and he posted the labeled picture) - or is that a good value at key-on before cranking? The right test needs to be performed to prevent an unneeded replacement. Notice the customer had about that value with 1.723V engine running (+ meter accuracy), but an intermittent condition which could account for the 5.16V cranking with no spark. What is the cranking Voltage on yours (Y/BL wire)?

[SiliconSoul]

If you were using high pressure water, make sure your ground on the front of the engine, driver side, did not come off. I know mine won't start unless it is attached. Not sure if it affects spark or injectors though...

[Cory_Thurmond]

Hopefully ill have a few hours while im off tomorrow to tear into Whisle , been driving my jeep renegade and am missing my stiva

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[navdoc101]

Have you tried sprayin' WD40 in the Distributor cap?
Pull cap , & spry .

[meyek91974]

4 days ago I pressure washed my engine.
It did not start for an hour.
When starting it's sputtered quite a bit.
I let it sit for a day and a half.
Then, when driving it runs perfectly however it will not start with the key I have to push start it.
Today I changed the 3 PAL 30&40 amp fuses.
Still, when I turn the key in the dash I hear the click such as that it would start.
However under the engine bay there's no sound.
I see the starter and I could go through the engine plug by plug/connection by connection, but is there someone who can help to my next step because some of the conversation through this thread about what to fix I do not know what these parts are and I cannot find them as Google image search

[TominMO]

When spray washing an engine bay, cover these three areas with aluminum foil:
distributor
air intake
alternator.

I've never had starting issues since I started doing this. The most important is the disty, and also air intake if you have a cone filter. If you just have the stock setup, no special care needs to be taken. Just don't ever spray water directly into an air intake. The alt is less critical, but a good idea on principle.

[ryanprins13]

4 days ago I pressure washed my engine.
It did not start for an hour.
When starting it's sputtered quite a bit.
I let it sit for a day and a half.
Then, when driving it runs perfectly however it will not start with the key I have to push start it.
Today I changed the 3 PAL 30&40 amp fuses.
Still, when I turn the key in the dash I hear the click such as that it would start.
However under the engine bay there's no sound.
I see the starter and I could go through the engine plug by plug/connection by connection, but is there someone who can help to my next step because some of the conversation through this thread about what to fix I do not know what these parts are and I cannot find them as Google image search

Where is the click coming from? If its from the starter thats a common sign that your battery terminals are corroded or otherwise not contacting the posts well enough. Wiggle them around or take em off and clean them.

[meyek91974]

When I turn the key to start the car The Clique is in the ignition or fuse box in the dash however if somebody's in the car and try starting it when I listened at the engine bay there is no sound whatsoever

The battery terminals are clean however the cables are old. Being inexpensive I could replace the positive or negative battery cables since they are simple and inexpensive however I do not suspect the battery is the issue as I can turn on lights or the radio with only the electric turned on the ignition and the vehicle runs perfectly fine once it's started. I had the battery tested a few months ago as I suspected it was a problem however in February the battery tested in perfect range