Stock Engine Swap-in. Having Issues

[Sid_RallyX_82]

1991, all stock, took the worn out but running engine out of my first car and put it in the new one. While in the old one, I had the idle set at 850rpm to hide the exhaust smoke, but otherwise everything was normal. Now in the new one when I sart it, it has trouble getting up to speed and once it does, it goes to fast idle and then tries to idle down and then it starts to die. If I tap the throttle, it comes back up, fast idle, slows down, starts to die. Do this cycle a few times and then it stays running, but idles way too high, sounds around 1500rpm. I'll put my digital timing light on this weekend. Any other thoughts?

[FestYboy]

Missed an ECU input?, ECU needs to learn this engine?, Were any parts from the new car used on the old engine?

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Used a coolant hose and a vacuum line. Both cars are '91, but the ECU in the new one is California and the engine is 49 states. Would that make a difference?

[FestYboy]

No, the cat is all that changed.

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Ok, I replaced the PCV grommet, swapped the VAF for one I know works, checked for other vacuum leaks, set idle speed at 700 +/- 20, and none of that really did anything significant. So I played with ign. timing. Kept bumping it up little by little and it kept running better and better, but I've maxed it out and I'm still having a little bit of trouble getting over a hill in 5th gear. Maybe the cam belt is 1 tooth off?

[FestYboy]

Yes, if you're full advanced, and still gaining power, you're off a tooth.
Also do a compression test...

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Yep, cam gear was off. Advanced it one tooth, timing is set where it says in the book, and the distributor is near the end of, but still within the adjustment range (additional problem, there are four marks on the crank pulley, so I stuck a screwdriver in #1 spark plug hole and set it at TDC and just put white out on the closest one to the mark), now it runs great, except for one thing. New problem, I have the idle screw all the way in and the idle won't drop below 1kRPM.

I already know the compression is a bit low

Wet test:
1: 110psi
2: 95psi (found a weird crack, like a slice of pie cut of of this ex. valve
3: 110psi
4: 115psi

But it ran well enough and got 45 mpg before I took it out of the other car

[FestYboy]

You're ignition is too far advanced, pull timing till you hit 700. Won't take much.
Also, you have a burnt valve and it won't get better till it's replaced.

[Sid_RallyX_82]

I dropped it down, but I didn't want to retard it too far below the spec.

*Edited post above

[Sid_RallyX_82]

I did some 2nd gear pulls from 20-50. Any chance someone might know if 7.4 seconds is acceptable for a stock Festiva?

[FestYboy]

Yes, 0-60 in a stock Festiva is low 10s, so that is acceptable.

[ryanprins13]

I did some 2nd gear pulls from 20-50. Any chance someone might know if 7.4 seconds is acceptable for a stock Festiva?

Looked back at a few of my time slips stock b3 worn. 1/8 mile was at 60mph from a standing start. Just under 11.5 seconds usually. Bald 12in walmart tires

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[Sid_RallyX_82]

This engine was burning a bit of oil when it was in the other car, but now in this one, in less than 200 miles, this engine burned up all its oil..

[FestYboy]

Do another compression test... Dry this time

[Sid_RallyX_82]

No, I mean while driving. Engine is dead. I'm getting ready to send it to the machine shop. A while back I read some particular details about where to buy things to get the most out of the rebuild, like rings need to be from ________ or compression will be low at the get go, etc... Can I get all that info in one place, please?
Where are the best places to buy pistons, bearings, rings, valves, etc...?