Got my engine. Gonna put it together this weekend. Can someone post up the Ford and Mazda part numbers for the proper thermostat? TIA
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Stock Engine Swap-in. Having Issues
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A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles
Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles
FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
Instagram: jaredbear82
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Found it. Which is Ford and Which is Mazda?
•F201-15-171A
•8AK1-15-171-9UA mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles
Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles
FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
Instagram: jaredbear82
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8AK1-15-171-9U is a Mazda part. I have one sitting in front of me."Blue92"- 92L 5 spd, original owner- 185K, B8,DD..
"Pedro"-88L 5-spd, B6D (built by Advancedynamix)
"Blanca"-92 GL auto, 125K(FM8 Lowest Miles)- B6 daughter's DD
"Tractor Blue"- 89 L auto, 110K
"Chester"-88 LX, runs but not street legal
"Wenona"-89L parts car
"Flame"- 89 LX 5 spd ,parts car
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Cool. Any particular recommendation for break-in oil?
Cheap conventional oil + zinc additive or?A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles
Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles
FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
Instagram: jaredbear82
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Sooooo... What should I use?A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles
Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles
FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
Instagram: jaredbear82
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I see no reason to spend money on fancy oils for regular engines, walfart cheap supertec 10W30, a quality oil filter is key, buy the Mazda, Motorcraft or Wix (someone mentioned the NAPA Gold is a Wix).
change every 3K miles or 4 months, whichever comes first.
I don't recomend Synthetic oil untill rings are seated and bearings are heat cycled enough to be fully hardened, could be 5k to 35K, depends on what parts are used.No car too fast !
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Best break-in for these engines in my experience is moderate throttling, stop and go city driving, don't lug it, and don't rev over 5000 for the first 2K miles.
Our spec class engine builds (totally stock) go in the DD cars of certain wives to run errands for 6 months before they go in a race car and off to the dyno for final tune/adjust. These tend to make 4 more horse power than class allows, so we detune slightly.No car too fast !
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Wait, you have a HP limit!?! Unless all engines are run on the same dyno, and with the same operator, how can they regulate the output?Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Originally posted by FestYboy View PostWait, you have a HP limit!?! Unless all engines are run on the same dyno, and with the same operator, how can they regulate the output?
Therein lies the rub! It's not uncomon in an SCCA Majors race for the top20 Spec Miata finishers to come off track and be lined up at a portable dyno to be tested, over 130hp all three of three pulls and you are DQ.
It took some experimentation to enter values in the presets of the Mustang dyno to get equivalent results. Obviously there are no guarantees, too many variables! This was SCCA's solution to rampant cheating in that class. Pretty sad for an "Ivy League Club"No car too fast !
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Main bearing gaps are wider than the spec in my book. Says they should be "0.024-0.042mm (0.0009- 0.00017 in)" [must be a type-o, because 0.042mm = ~0.0017in]. My plastigauge reads consistently between 0.051- 0.076mm (0.002- 0.003in). I applied assembly lube, spun the crank, wiped off lube, applied plastigauge, and torqued to spec. Is this usable? Or should I go back and get tighter bearings?A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles
Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles
FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
Instagram: jaredbear82
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I have a sneaking suspicion that my machine shop polished 0.002" out of the main journals and then ordered stock bearings...A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles
Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles
FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
Instagram: jaredbear82
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Originally posted by Dragonhealer View PostBINGO!
Therein lies the rub! It's not uncomon in an SCCA Majors race for the top20 Spec Miata finishers to come off track and be lined up at a portable dyno to be tested, over 130hp all three of three pulls and you are DQ.
It took some experimentation to enter values in the presets of the Mustang dyno to get equivalent results. Obviously there are no guarantees, too many variables! This was SCCA's solution to rampant cheating in that class. Pretty sad for an "Ivy League Club"Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View PostI have a sneaking suspicion that my machine shop polished 0.002" out of the main journals and then ordered stock bearings...Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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My other book says Main Journal bearing clearance should be "0.0007- 0.0014 (0.018- 0.036mm)"
Also says Service Limit is "0.0039 (0.100mm)"
I'm using plastigauge, not T gauge. It reads between 0.002- 0.003in (0.051- 0.076mm)
image.jpgA mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles
Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles
Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles
FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
Instagram: jaredbear82
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