Control arm failure

[chuyler]

Thanks for all the responses guys! I'm at work so I haven't been able to reply but this was my first post on fordfestiva.com and I'm blown away by how helpful everyone is! I'll update the thread with progress reports and some more questions I'm sure

[WmWatt]

The same thing happened to me. The tow truck driver put the axle back in the transmission before towing the car home to my driveway. Using the Haynes manual I was able to put on a new control arm. You'll have to jack up the front end and put it on jack stands. You'll also have to refill the transmission when done because fluid leaked out when the axle popped out. To do that you'll need a funnel with a long neck to reach from the engine bay down to the filler hole. I have some photos you can look at, none of replacing the control arm, sorry about that, but one set is for an axle and the other large set is for rebuilding and replacing the front wheels. Both sets show the area around the control arm. If the strut is bent and needs replacing you need to use a spring compressor to swap the coil spring from the old strut to the new one.

http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/ag384fb/library/Festiva-axle

http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/ag384fb/library/Festiva-frontwheel

If you do a search of the Internet "replacing lower control arm" you can probably find videos of guys replacing them on various cars to get an idea of what's invovled. Good luck.

[denguy]

I will have to remember this removal method the next time I am struggling to extract a damn axle from the tranny. And, I have AAA and like it a lot, specifically because they will tow me anywhere I want to go, which is always home. Maybe this is all you need:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Tie-Rod-End-Front-Outer-ES2827RL-Festiva-Capri-Tracer-/221880911143?fits=Model%3AFestiva&hash=item33a9220527:g:X40AAOSw-0xYl7zZ&vxp=mtr

[FestYboy]

Thanks for all the responses guys! I'm at work so I haven't been able to reply but this was my first post on fordfestiva.com and I'm blown away by how helpful everyone is! I'll update the thread with progress reports and some more questions I'm sure

Feel free to ask questions. I happen to be a licensed inspection tech for PA and know a few instructors if there's any clarification needed. Also, any major issues can be reported directly to PSP (state trooper). This includes the collusion you mentioned earlier.

Btw, I make house calls! Lol

[chuyler]

Alright! Just ordered the parts and a Haynes manual along with it.
Now I need to get my hands on some tools hmmmmmm

[ryanprins13]

Alright! Just ordered the parts and a Haynes manual along with it.
Now I need to get my hands on some tools hmmmmmm

Nice! Where did you get the manual from?
Did you need tie rod ends? If so bring a tape measure to set the toe close so you can drive it to the alignment shop after.
Youll need a jack and 2 jackstands and a couple blocks of wood like 2x4's.
Once festivas start rusting they dont like jacks or jackstands on the pinch welds so much. So i usually stick a 1ft long 2x4 on the pinch weld before jacking from it so it doesnt crush. Or i jack on the tow hooks. Then i typically lower the car onto 2 jack stands so that its just touching them but not resting all the weight and leave the jack like that.
But if your car isnt rusty then no worries. Since you dont have a hamdbrake just be sure to use wheel chocks on the rear and safety stands and youll likely be yanking and prying on stuff and you dont want the car rolling or sliding off the jack. Also be sure the ground under you is solid. Ive had jacks and stands sink in soft ground, twist and let the car fall off more than once...
You planning to do it in your collage parking lot or at the parking lot of the place it got towed to after they close? Lol.

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[WmWatt]

You might enjoy a life-long hobby of attending church rummage sales and community garage sales. I've collected tools and supplies there over the years. For community garage sales I recommend a bicycle to get around and see everything. This is a long term, not a short term strategy so won't help in the current situation.

[ryanprins13]

You will also want a small container of anti-sieze compound. You brush it on all the threads so you can get stuff off in the future.
In case you werent aware some auto parts stores "rent" specalty tools for free. You pay them the full cost of the tool, take it, and get all your money back when you return it in good condition. I would phone around and see who does that for spring compressors and torque wrench.

As soon as you get some wrenches and sockets try the bolt that holds the control arm to the frame. They tend to be siezed on. Try to turn it fairly hard but if it wont go then stop. You can twist the caged nut off by trying too hard. Then buy some penatrating fluid and a propane torch. Spray the caged nut once a day until your parts arrive. Then try again. If it doesnt come off use the torch on the captive nut.

When you get the haynes manual read through the steps of what your going to do at home before your there and ready to start.

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[FestYboy]

Alright! Just ordered the parts and a Haynes manual along with it.
Now I need to get my hands on some tools hmmmmmm

... I know a guy... Lol

[chuyler]

I ordered the tie rod just to be safe since they were cheap like you said, and I ordered the Haynes manual off their website for like $25.
Does WD40 count as anti-sieze compound?

And yeah if I can get it towed back to the school I'll just do it in the lot. A campus safety officer literally walked right by me while I was waiting for the tow-truck so I don't think they mind.

@Festyboy

Is this guy you by chance? I'm gonna send you a PM

[ryanprins13]

I ordered the tie rod just to be safe since they were cheap like you said, and I ordered the Haynes manual off their website for like $25.
Does WD40 count as anti-sieze compound?

On rockautos website? I just looked and couldnt find them. Where?
Not really. Im talking about this:

Small bottle is like $4 at a local parts store.
I bought my first festiva 10yrs ago, didnt think i would keep it long or it would last for more than 2 years or so. Did a ton of work on it and never used anti-sieze. 9 years later i still was driving it and snapping off bolts and nuts i had removed when i first bought it... really wish i had used it back then.

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[FestYboy]

@Festyboy

Is this guy you by chance? I'm gonna send you a PM

Yeah, that guy would be me
Txt sent

[Advancedynamix]

I'd fix the dang thing in the parking lot of the shop and tell them it cost you under 50 bucks. Lol. That's a 40 minute repair. Arty could probably knock it out in 15 minutes if he's fresh. Lol. Slap a control arm on, plug the axle back in and top off the trans and call it a day.

[WmWatt]

Don't want to discourage but it has to be said people run into problems with the pivot bolt at the far end of the control arm and some have to cut the bolt. It's good policy to liberally soak all the old fastners with penetrating oil to loosen up the rust and dirt. I like to clean nuts off where I can reach then with a wire brush. WD-40 is not a bad choice.

[TominMO]

When doing the control arm, unfasten the knuckle end first, then remove the sway bar rubber so the control arm is not under tension. That will help free up the bolt on the inner end, with less chance of spinning loose the captured nut. It's also good to tap on your ratchet or wrench while turning that bolt to set up vibration, to help break up any rust. Then use anti-seize when you put the bolt back in, for next time.