Control arm failure

[FestYboy]

Chase, take it out on the highway and get some heat in the brakes, there was a good amount of surface rust on the rotor when we were in there and the little driving we did wouldn't have removed it. Report back.

It's also possible the dust plate is touching the rotor somewhere.

[denguy]

I was thinking of the wrong part, been awhile.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36rgxqZ8MAQ

[FestYboy]

Wow, that guy picked the hardest way to do that job...

[chuyler]

Hey sorry for late update. Just wanted to be sure of whats going on before mentioning it on here. The grinding noise has dissapeared but there is a noticeable shaking and knocking when I brake. I'm thinking it might just be the other control arm, am planning to replace now that schools out and I have lots of time to work on it.

[TominMO]

Wow, that guy picked the hardest way to do that job...

I've never had to pull the axle or use a pickle fork to replace a LCA. Ridiculous instructional. Plus if you don't have an impact wrench, loosen the axle nut with the tire on the ground. Also, no jackstand or even a tire under the car, as a backup to the jack.

In my experience, it's best to pull the outer end of the LCA loose, then the swaybar connection, then the inner LCA end where it fastens to the body; i.e., work from the outside to the inside. The swaybar puts tension on the LCA's body fastener, and increases the chance you will break loose that captured nut. You don't have to get it totally off the swaybar; just pull off the outer rubber bushing and move the LCA a little, to relieve the tension.

When re-installing, I do the inner LCA connector, then the knuckle end (with the swaybar already through its LCA hole, and with the new inner swaybar bushing installed if I'm replacing them). Then I get the outer swaybar bushing on, and the outer nut.

Of course, use anti-seize on all threaded connectors when reassembling.