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Newbie help, parking break not engaging enough to actually park.

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  • #16
    Originally posted by TominMO View Post
    Well you know what Assuming does Tom!
    Will Samet

    JDMSTIVA - Rest in Peace. Festiva of the Month, May '16 - Best Beater & Bad Luck Award, FMX - (Build Thread)

    JDMSTIVA V2 - Racecar, Showcar, Work in Progress - (Build Thread)

    1990 LX - B6D swapped, mostly stock.

    How to find me:
    Facebook messenger is the best way. m.me/willsamet
    Feel free to PM me anytime!
    Reddit / Snapchat / everywhere else: w4rky
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    • #17
      There is a forum called Custom Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels with more info about wheels and tires.
      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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      • #18
        So I adjusted the break as much as I could with a box wrench. It didn't tension enough and I can still pull the Ebreak all the way to the top with no tension at the top. I'm guessing I'm going to have to pull the drums to adjust it from this point.

        Think I would do much damage leaving it in first when I park for a week or so until I can fix the parking break?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Dalton12 View Post

          Think I would do much damage leaving it in first when I park for a week or so until I can fix the parking break?
          Isnt that how everyone parks? [emoji14]
          No issues, ive been doing that since i started driving.


          Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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          • #20
            Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
            Isnt that how everyone parks? [emoji14]
            No issues, ive been doing that since i started driving.


            Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
            Only reason I was worried is because ALL the weight is on the first gear and none is on the break.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Dalton12 View Post
              Only reason I was worried is because ALL the weight is on the first gear and none is on the break.
              A lot less force than if you were flooring it in first. Or spinning and hopping the wheels. Or even lightly accellerating now that i think of it.

              Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
              Last edited by ryanprins13; 06-13-2017, 12:37 AM.

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              • #22
                Rear brake adjuster frozen with rust ????

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                • #23
                  Make sure the cable is intact from the drum to the equalizer. If it's broken, it can be repaired on the cheap. The actuator arm inside the drum needs to be sloppy loose once you free it up, and lubed once a year at minimum to keep it that way. Lube can be applied through one of the lug holes with a straw.
                  Trees aren't kind to me...

                  currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                  94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by denguy View Post
                    Rear brake adjuster frozen with rust ????
                    Not sure yet, I have yet to actually get underneath and really check it out.

                    Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                    Make sure the cable is intact from the drum to the equalizer. If it's broken, it can be repaired on the cheap. The actuator arm inside the drum needs to be sloppy loose once you free it up, and lubed once a year at minimum to keep it that way. Lube can be applied through one of the lug holes with a straw.
                    Alright thanks, I'm going to switch the wheels and adjust the breaks all at once.

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