Fixed fuel pump and now...

[jjaynes]

I finally replaced the fuel pump in my '91. Fuel pump runs but now engine won't run. After much tinkering with the throttle cable/idle I got it to idle, but it was rough and died after a few seconds. The flathead screw above the throttle body has been adjusted, I just screwed it all the way in. Looks like it has something to do with fuel/air ratio...? As soon as the gas peddle is depressed the idle dies. I can't understand why it is doing this. Any help is appreciated.

[bravekozak]

Was it running O.K. before you changed the fuel pump?
Is the new fuel pump putting out enough pressure?
Did you change your fuel filter too?

[jjaynes]

Well I dont know. An important detail is that the car has sat for 5+ years (just an educated assumption). I did not change the fuel filter and I assume it is getting good pressure. I disconnected the fuel line and it was pumping good at the motor. Actually made a big mess :help:

[william]

Is your afm flapper stuck?
That's the box with wires going into it on top of the air filter.
It could have stuck from sitting. I've seen it before and I acts just like your saying.

[getnpsi]

Is it new gas? I drained some dirty orange junk out of mine and I parked it in 2014. I've had cars sit longer no problem but my festiva didn't want none.

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[jjaynes]

I have drained the gas and I’m pretty sure the flapper is not stuck

[getnpsi]

Make sure the connection on the vam is solid. If you pull it off and the idle doesn't change or the car doesn't die...then you've got my issue, it sucks.

The vam is super picky. You can't just slap the intake pipe on loose while putting it together. The clamp needs to be secure and so on. There are some good vam tune up and clean out threads might as well do it anyway for insurance.

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[jjaynes]

And what is your issue?

[getnpsi]

The clip on my connector is gone. I had to bend all prongs tighter and jb weld it to the vam. If I shake the harness by the headlight it still stumbles at idle.

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[jjaynes]

Unplugged the vaf and it didn’t even hit. Plugged it back in and played around. Squirt ether in the tb- runs for a bit. Squirt ether directly in the fuel line- only an occasional spitter. Is there anything with the injector that could be clogged?

[jjaynes]

It might be important to mention when it does idle (roughly) as soon as the gas is pressed it dies.

[getnpsi]

That is a textbook vacuum leak condition The Vane air meter is your biggest vacuum leak if the computer isn't metering the air, either by a bad seal physical holess elsewhere or the door flapper not working properly. The same thing happens with a carbureted car if you can't close the choke.

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[jjaynes]

Tips on fixing this problem?

[getnpsi]

I'd just blast it with brake cleaner and move door see if it hangs any. Try the easy stuff before take apart. It is not like a mass air flow with the heated wire that can collect dirt and screw up readings. It's a metal door and simply being "slow" will make everything erratic.

You should also address your TPS move it back and forth and see if that changes things and also your idle air control valve you might take that off and hit it with brake cleaner. Unfortunately when those are bad you have surging and not just the car quitting on you.

Can you push pedal when you start it and it rev 2000 or 3000 RPM and keep it there?

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[jjaynes]

No. No rev without using ether. 3 questions: is this “door” the throttle body plate? And what is this tps? Where is the idle control valve?