New to the forums..vehicle idles rough

[Oem]

Hello all!! I’m newish to the forums and I’m having issues with a 93 festiva at idle, vehicle is misfiring at idle but runs fine at higher rpms, I’ve changed the cap, rotor, new wires and spark plugs also swapped the distruibutor over from a 91 as the connector housing on top of the dizzy was broken and missing a piece. I did the usual steps I set gap to spec on all 4 cylinders, had vehicle idling and removed the plugs one by one only cylinder 2 didn’t change when pulled, removed plug it smelled slightly like fuel, swapped cylinder 2 injector for another one, with no change to the rough idling, I’m still new to festivas just wondering if I can scratch someone’s brain for a bit

[bravekozak]

welcomsign
welcome.

Clean your engine grounds and the terminals that hold your fusible links.
Report back.

[Oem]

Cleaned off the surface and the wire eyelets on the passenger side strut pillar, ground location near the dizzy, and the fuse able links have to find pal fuses soon, those links were nerve wracking to remove. Also are the intakes for the 93 different from the 91”s?... still misfiring but it’s a bit better oddly

[ryanprins13]

Try the pal fuses, try an old spark plug in the #2 cylinder that was misfiring. Do a compression test, maybe cyl 2 is lower or higher than the rest. Mark the distributor position and move it around. Maybe your ignition timing is off after you changed the distributor

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[WmWatt]

Just wondering why you replaced everything but the coil? I did that. The coil was original, oldest igntion component on my car, and when I replaced it the missing ended. You could also look at connections. I found corrosion in the connector at the centre of my car's coil or distributor, forget which.

[Oem]

Yes I’ve also replaced the coil with a new one forgot to put that in the original text it just seemed strange that the idle wouldn’t change once #2 plug was pulled every other plug and the engine would fall on its face I’ll have to check compression for sure to see if the motor is healthy at all before anything else gets done

[Oem]

image.jpgimage.jpg
Green one is the parts vehicle and the teal coloured one is the one with the misfires

[bravekozak]

Replace the old fusible links with long foot PAL fuses.

This picture is the standard for cleaning the oxidation off of the brass terminals.

[Sid_RallyX_82]

Did you do the cylinder drop test after switching the injectors? Or did you just note the idle condition

[Oem]

I’m guessing by drop test you mean cylinder leak down test if so no I don’t have the access to a leak tester at the moment I simply went with basics spark fuel and air, have spark on #2, swapped suspicious injector with known good injector, swapped questionably broken dizzy with known good dizzy, cleaned off grounds and fusible link terminals, battery is fully charged and till I have access to a compression tester it may tell me if a valve is bent or something may also need to insert a borescope into the cylinder to see if any damage is visible

[Oem]

Quick update finally had time to roll the festy into the shop checked timing marks no issues there performed compression test 150psi for cylinder 1 and 25psi for cylinder 2 found my dead cylinder that’s for sure leak tested the cylinder and could hear air coming out from the dipstick tube and the oil cap, that being said I have a spare parts car is it easier to yank just the engine out of them or both engine and tranny?

[william]

I do just the engine if the cross member bolts are rusty and look like they won't come out. I personally think it's quicker and you don't lose your trans fluid or have to deal with the axles . Of the axles have been changed there's a chance the aftermarket axles have the incorrect clips on them makings them hard to remove, sometimes next to impossible.
A bit of advice for reinstalling trim the engine to trans dust plate/inspection plate around where the passenger side axel meets it. I use tin snips for this , it will make your lifeedback much easier, it will keep it from getting hung up and bent on that axel.

[zoe60]

I've always pulled the engine and trans as a unit.No need to remove crossmember, just unbolt the trans mounts, undo the shifter, take out axles, and you are halfway there. Whole shootin' match comes out through the top. Easier to put trans and engine together outside of vehicle if you ask me.

[Dragonhealer]

We have found it easier to pull as a whole unit also. Engine, trans, axles, subframe, down pipe all stay together, engine harness stays on engine.
Drop the whole thing down onto a rolley cart, lift chain onto the lower core support using one of the subframe bolts, lift the front of the car and roll the power unit out from underneath.
Service is a piece of cake this way.

[Oem]

ThNks all for the suggestions I’ll definitely be pulling just the engine out next weekend will keep everyone posted