It finally happened...

[zoom zoom]

Silicone! I was kind of hoping it would be removeable, would be nice to have studs comming up out of the body, so possibly jbweld studs from the inside and silicone the stud on the outside?

What about the screw things used on aftermarket spoilers? Hopefully ill make it to the hardware store today and get some stuff.


I got the carpet out yesterday and a couple bolts in the new driver seat. The spyder seats have the belt buckle attached to them, a little chop and ream with a grinder and drill and the stock belt buckle fit like a glove that was too small, got wet, stuffed it in, and it formed perfect. I drove the car to work today with the new seat held in place by two bolts Haha..it feels really good! The amount.of work its going to take to get the other two bolts in is nothing compared to the pontiac seats I put in peaspire. The two inside bolts fit almost like they were meant to be there. Reamed out the rear hole a little, bent the tab in front down, teamed out that hole and stuck the bolts in.

[FestYboy]

silicone is removeable, especially if you put it in the right spot (just arround the threads) the gaskets will take care of the rest.

studs will NOT work in this instance due to the lack of material in the roof skin. JB will do more harm than goon in this instance.

[rmoltis]

are there no roof support beams runnng through the roof?
i figured he would mount them if they are there.
i havent removed my headliner yet.
worst case scenario run a metal brace under the headliner to mount.
if anything you might stiffen up the chassis lol.
less body roll and twisting would be nice.

[FestYboy]

there are beams, but again, lack of material comes into play: it's all sheet metal (stamped). and if the mount spacing is off, it becomes a moot point.

[zoom zoom]

well... I got the hardware I need to mount the roof rack today, spent about $18 on (9)grade 8.8 6x100 nuts with nylon nuts, fender washers, and a tube of silicone. Also hit the junk yard and snagged the whole start/charge harness off the festy, and cut the branch off the main harness from the radiator support to the distributor.

Got home, rewired the engine harness so EVERYTHING is like it should be with stock sockets and finally got a working temp gauge in the cluster!!!!! Best part is that the cooling fan doesn't stay on all the time now, it works like it's supposed to!!!!!! The car still idles at 2k rpm when you first fire it up, and over the course of a couple minutes drops down to 12-1300, drive it for 5 minutes and park it and it idles around 8-900. Things are getting better all the time.

Anyway I started to remove the dash, got the seat out, and figured while I have the dash out I'm gonna take out the headliner and fix the little rust hole in the driver side floorboard...I started low and was gonna work my way up, got the driver seat out, started chipping around the hole, and BAM...poked the hornets nest with a stick if you will...

[zoom zoom]

So this is gonna take a bit longer than I thought... my solution...

cut out most of the metal and put new in.. I chopped out parts here and there, then cut a strip of 1/8" steel to go where the pinch weld used to be. I'll weld the rest back to that 1/8" strip, top, bottom, the middle piece, rocker panel, interior floorboard, and the box part on the inside below the threshold.

[zoom zoom]

I had to cut the whole pinch weld here and redo it, I've also got some GOOD sealer here to put on that will keep this from rusting out any more, ill have to put some paint on top of it tho.. and I hate paint.


I ran out of welding wire at exactly the same time as it started pouring down the rain. Really trying to stay positive here..

[jason_]

I'd make sure you don't get wild late at night welding. Even if outside unless your 50ft from a building. But then grass wouldn't make it matter. I've burned 2 cars for fun, and there's some serious btu 20ft away.

3 times I've gone out back to cut something off a car, next morning, melted chassis. Oops.



So we have 2 rules with vehicles in the garage.

1 No welding/torch/cutting/sparks if no one is to hang around for 2 hrs after last spark/heat.

2, anything in shop, batteries must be disconnected. Unless obviously it needs to be driven out or started. Some of my projects are weeks before a battery is needed.


I'm just suggesting. I personally know of two shops smoked because one and the other resulted in one of those 2 rules.


With that noted, nice project yourself. Where's the end? Ha. Cars never have an end!

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[Safety Guy]

Good safety points, Jason.

When I did security at Penney's outlet center warehouse, I often did fire watch after cutting or welding projects. I think it was one or two hours afterwards to make sure nothing started a fire.

Karl

[rigidchop]

Whoa, ive been gone awhile and Matt gets a festy, lol. This thread and some of the other lurking I've done makes me want another. Gotta get rid of a few other projects first. Haven't seen you the last few times we've came up to your work, but those other guys told me you were still there. Hope everythings going well.

[zoom zoom]

Haha hey man what's good?! Ey I lost your number when I got this new phone, message me or something! I'm doing a little different schedule these days so I most likely won't be working your tows for a couple months Haha..

[zoom zoom]

Haha Jason...I started a couple small fires but its mostly just the undercoating/noise reduction stuff that catches..paint too within 2-3" of the welds...no biggie though what I was worried about was being that close to the gas lines! The trick is to do a couple inches and wire brush the crap out of the rubber stuff, it lifts right off.

Honestly I'm thinking after I get all this back together its gonna be regular maintenance, I have some other projects I want to get done...

[jason_]

I'm getting so tired of projects.


The one I'm dreading is changing o-ring in this hough 120, which involves killing the planetaries and removing the hub/rim. Easily over 2000# without the 1500# tire.

And I need it to move some dirt before snowfall. Been procrastinating for a couple of years.

Why can't I have normal projects? Like building a bird feeder or some shit?

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[zoom zoom]

Car is taking forever to get back together!!! Been super busy and when I'm not its POURING down the rain, like now. Literally less than 20 minutes after I got home it started raining, that was an hour ago.

I did get a couple pics of how she's sitting, cause I like to look at er! So pretty..

Got the dash in it so far :/

[zoom zoom]

Got it together enough to drive it again, last Friday I was able to snag an S code VAF from an mx-3 with a second gen b6(me?)

Car still idles a little high, like 2k rpm high, so I need to get that figured out ASAP its driving me nuts. After its warm it idles ~1000-1100 but if I put it in gear even with the clutch held in idle jumps to 1300. I figure that's probably normal jumping 200 rpm to compensate for the incoming load?

Maybe there's a tyranny sensor or something keeping the idle high? Does constant high idle mean the car is always in open loop?

It definitely feels better now even if its slightly out of time. Who knows maybe adjusting the timing will set it straight but I don't wan't to bandaid a problem by setting the idle wrong to make up for it...the timing seriously isn't off by much, the pick up is great and there's just absolutely no missing or backfiring going on picking up speed and rpm doing 70+ in fourth gear up a steep hill.