My New Stereo Setup...

[IdealSociety]

actually now that ive got my motor swap, brake upgrades, and coil-overs done... im happy for now performancewise till the snow melts...

so thats why im working on the stereo and looks of the car now :wink: currently im working on some fiberglass for both across the back to replace the rear speaker panels and the rear deck with one removable FG piece...

now it wont be anything super fancy, but i plan on moving the components outward to where the old speaker locations were but tilting them up at an angle a bit to aim a little more towards the passengers and not the ceiling lol. the tweeters will be right along side them. now in the center though where the old regular decklid was at, will be a nice piece of plexiglass so you can see down through to the trunk.

the trunk area with the pieces ive been working on, will accomodate 4 10" subwoofers, my regular battery (which had to be mounted back there anyways from the swap) and the aux. battery i will be adding in much like dj has done on techno.

im using the plastic panels from the sides of the trunk and molding my pieces directly to them and adding strength to weak spots, filled in the tail light acess area. there will be one 10" sub in each side panel aimed inwards toward eachother, the nice thing about using these panels is they will mount directly to the car as the backing is a stock piece! this will help with keeping everything solid and in place...

in the center of the trunk there will be a false back to the seats which my amps and crossovers for the component system will be mounted onto with wiring going back through for a clean install. in front of that is a false floor im working on which sits level with the edge the latch sits on. two more 10" subs will sit in this area with the two batteries sitting underneath in what used to be the spare tire area. (im cutting it out and welding in two seperate boxes for the batteries, cables will run up the back behind the amp wall and nobody will ever be able to see or have a clue where my batteries are even at :wink:

on top of it all though my main priority with it mounting in using mostly stock mounting points is i want it all to be easily removable for when i go to the track. the main floor will pull out, the side enclosures will come screw out like normal, and the amp rack will more than likely be just as easily removable...

so far all ive worked on is the floor and side speaker mounts, im waiting on some plate from work for the battery enclosures and anotehr set of 10" speaker rings for the floor area.

oh yeah and there will be neon lights in the underside of the decklid replacement which wil be hidden just to light everything up inside for some sweet looks

i havent quite decided on what type of 10" to go with yet, so far i have jsut one of the sony's left (the amp literally started the lower powered one one fire...) i guess thats what i get for running 1000w through a 400w sub lol. the sony is nice for laying out my pieces, but i dunno if i will go with 4 of them...

whats a good 10" for multiple sub setups?

[EVOGUN]

If you must go 4 then 10w7 x 4 or S10X x 4. But That's crazy. You only need one of them.

Thanks :wink:

[pazz]

if you don't mind me jumping in here but, that sounds a lot of work for some bass tunz.

this is what i think. why not stick with just 2 12" in a 4cf ported box. a good pair of 12s will hit hard and go down low in a proper sized, well built box. that will sound loads better than 4 10s and a fair bit easier to remove when you want it out. or even one 15" in a 3-4cf box will sound great sealed. also have you tried firing the subs facing the boot? i tend to find it sounds better that way.
plus the amp you have might get up to 500wrms, then running 2 subs you'll get a good amount of power to each of them.

and if you've 'set fire' to the old sony sub i would think you're sending a clipped signal to the subs.

as for which subs to go for, think of it like this, why spend $400 on 4 under average subs, and have cr@p sounds, when you could spend $400 on two above average subs, and have pounding bass?
buy the best you can afford.

[IdealSociety]

well i ended up with a pair of these:



15" audiobahn flame q subs... each powered by its own pioneer 1000w class d mono amp...

i only have one in right now and it hits HARD in a nice sealed box...

im gunna glass each up in the back and then maybe put in a single 10" for some upper bass action...

[FlowmasterFestiva]

subs

a bit late on this post i got 2 old-ass infinity 1211w 12s powered by a kenwood 1700 class d mono amp, and they hit HARD even with the sub volume at the lowest setting on he xplode headunit and the bassboost at a fairly low setting. only problem i have with this setup and the amp draws alot of power from the engine when they kick dropping the rpms down about 400 at idle. my 1 friend has a pair of 10s with 2 low wattage amps that hit hard in his civic. i too blew out a pair of subs had 2 600w legacy subs powered by the same 1700w amp(oops should have done the math first) but i got the subs then amp and head unit dont ask y though

[IdealSociety]

nice thing about my BP swap lol... alt is a pretty good deal bigger (85a if i remember right compared to festy's like 55a?)

im only running the one sub for now with one amp, but unless it hits REALLY HARD i dont get enough dimming to notice... and i crank it up with a full set of components front and rear as well (got audiobahn 4" components in front and alpine type-x 6.25 in rear deck)

not enough power? just do a motor swap! :wink: bring everything up here and ill do it for 500$ :twisted:

[FlowmasterFestiva]

if i lived closer i would. i got pyle 4" in dash as 4x10 in retard boxes just sittin in the back for now till i box the whole back end not sure on the brand of the 4x10. has ne1 put any speakers on the doors cause there is a stop behind the door panel for maybe a 6" 6.25" tops cause i was thinking of puttin sum there.

[IdealSociety]

i know dj has put something there in technostiva, but im not entirely syre of the size... if you can get some of the new thin speakers (i believe blaupunkt is making them) you could probably go 6.5 without worrying about interference with the window when rolled down... the other problem is you would need to drill new mounting holes into the door (if im right theres 3 holes in the door for OEM speaker of some sort, same as on an aspire) but i could be wrong, its been about a year since ive had my festy's door panels off...

you seriously have 4x10's? unless they are eclipse brand 4x10's are usually VERY weak speakers... ive been a fiero enthusiast on the side with my festivas and those have a set of 4x10 in the dash on all years of fiero and ive tried every aftermarket speaker and thought they all sounded like crap except for the eclipse brand... and those were spendy and i still wasnt entirely happy... i ended up just setting a pair of 6x8 stock pontiac speakers in the holes and not covering them or anything... sadly they sounded better than any of the 4x10s i had been running andd the 6x8 were like 15 year old speakers lol...

id invest in a pair of either 6x9 if you wanna keep running the little boxes, or get a decent pair of 5.25 that will squeeze barely into the rears (you can only use like 2 of the stock mounting spots but they will hold)... unless you have an ever elusive rear deck like me, then you can mount whatever the heck you want into it as long as you make it look good!

actually that would be my reccomendation, make a rear deck from some good quiality plywood and cover it to look nice, then mount either a pair of 6x9 into it as far to the outsides as possible or a good pair of 6.5"s...

your ears will thanks you :wink:

[Guest]

I've got 3 spks on each door.. not easily done though.. and it made the doors heavy.. I did allot of wierd stuff to my doors. First I sprayed foam on the exterior panels from inside the door.. shaved back everything that interfered with the window glass. My panels are custom MDF the upper part is 3/8" the lower rear part is double 3/4" lower front is single 3/4". The reason for this was so that I could turn the inside of the door into somewhat of a sound deadened box. The 1 1/2" thichness on the rear bottom allows enough room for Kicker MD-6 6" midbass. I put the 6" minisubs on in reverse because they were just too deep and I didn't want to add any more mdf. There is a surface mount directional tweeter as well. It's all tore apart now.. but here you can see the door.

[FlowmasterFestiva]

i am planing on boxin the whole back in from the top od the drop down to re rearseat floors all the way back to the hatch since i dont have the sparetire well anymore plan yo put a slideout 20"+ LCD screen xbox(possibly a 360) and/or a ps2(or ps3 if the come out in us before im done). only problem with haveing the screen in the back is that i wouldnt use it in the wintertime cause it would be too cold lol and when i mean the 4x10 are in retard boxes im talkin i was bored at my old job washin cars for a limo co. and the speaker were jsut sittin in the back magin to the steel plate i had put in to cover the hole where the tirewell was so i cut up a c-board box from the washer fluid box just as a temp to keep them off the steel. it works and they do sound pretty good pyles in the front have a loose connetion i think cause the driverside keeps cuttin out once in a while. had to mod the stock grill coverin them if u promise not to laugh i show u what i mean with the retard boxes simon will be able to verify when i pick up the seats tomorrow if he wants to see