Car Audio Pix...Here

[Riordan121]

Mine is nothing serious but worth contributing
Dont know how to attach a pic but dp/avatar is the amps and whatnot
Obvs not complete but a decent start, pity the make shift OEM 45A Alternator hasnt thw juice to power everything properly
Again, work in progress

[nc_festiva]

now for the final layer covering up all the small holes and all the large hole/gaps along the doors and trunk and paneling etc to make an airtight right to help keep sound in and road noise out.

Dynamat isn't for sound proofing its for killing vibrations. A 25 % square on each panel will effectively kill all vibrations saving you alot of dynamat. Then you use a closed cell foam combination for acoustics and sound deadening. Dynamat has the foam or you can save some money by puting dynamat squares on each panel and then going to the junkyard and pulling up the interior of a volkswagon which has a closed cell foam deadener foam from the factory. Gather enough up and cut it to fit your vehicle.

[rmoltis]

1.)It is sound proofing in the sense that it decreases or eliminates the effects of exterior noise, primarily engine, exhaust and tire noise.
(Which it made a huge difference on)
It also isolated the rear speaker wave from entering the cabin.

2.)by reducing resonance that causes reverberation.

3.) And by dampening.

Damping means to reduce resonance in the room, by absorption or redirection (reflection or diffusion). Absorption will reduce the overall sound level, whereas redirection makes unwanted sound harmless or even beneficial by reducing coherence. Damping can reduce the acoustic resonance in the air, or mechanical resonance in the structure of the room itself or things in the room.

These are all aspects of sound proofing.

And yes there are many more aspects and ways to "soundproof"
These are just a few that are utilized by the dynamat.

[nc_festiva]

What I'm saying is by you putting all that dynamat it effectively did nothing more than if you had used a 25 percent square. the type of mat you used is for killing vibrations and you don't need to cover the entire panel for that to happen.

There is a reason they sell multiple products. I'm not trying to insult you but you would have gotten a lot better results with killing the vibrations with that using small amounts and then doing full coverage with a closed cell foam product. (Which you can also get from dynamat or lots of other suppliers.

[rmoltis]

There is no offense taken.

But it made a huge difference.

Everyone says there is diminishing returns past %25
There was a controlled test done of all sound deadener products to compare effectiveness. Most tests done were %25-%30 coverage.

But they also did a %29 vs %95 coverage.
It was using a different product but the concept is the same.
Seeing what difference if any the extra coverage would make.

The test was done with and without the dampening product on bare metal then overlayed for comparison.

Here's the overlay of bare metal vs. %29 damped metal frequency response.

The bare metal has the large peak at the resonant freq.


And here's the overlay of the bare metal vs. %95 coverage.



Damped metal waterfall plot%29 coverage




Damped metal waterfall plot %95 coverage



The decay plot is definitely better with the 95% coverage on the main resonant frequency.
It decays faster on the waterfall plot, and almost completely flattens out. It is also a significant reduction in the immediate response.

[nc_festiva]

I understand that full coverage is obviously going to make a difference by default of a layer of anything between the outside and in. What I am saying is that doing full coverage with a closed cell foam product will do the best job at quieting the car and for sound quality. Mass loaded vinyl on top of the closed cell foam increases results even more.

[rmoltis]

Dynamat isn't for sound proofing its for killing vibrations. A 25 % square on each panel will effectively kill all vibrations saving you alot of dynamat.

What I'm saying is by you putting all that dynamat it effectively did nothing more than if you had used a 25 percent square.

I understand that full coverage is obviously going to make a difference by default of a layer of anything between the outside and in.

First off I wanna say I'm not offended in any way.
Nor am I disagreeing that the extra products would increase the sound quality of the cabin.

All I wanted to say was that some of the progression of statements were worded in a way that may mislead people.

I am a member of a car audio forum I browse frequently for information.
That on average has 1500-3000 people online at any given time.
And granted I don't do this for a living.
Nor am I a professional audio installer.

And I understand that the extra products would help increase the sound quality of the vehicle.
It is something that is discussed over and over again in many different builds and threads.

But for me I have to take it in steps.

The way I saw it was.
Now that most of its put together I could go back in later and add the extra products at a later point.
I'm just not at that point yet.
And honestly it sounds pretty good so far.

My last aspire had components front rear+ 4 channel and sub amp.
But without deadener it rattled/shook/resonated/tire noise/engine noise/suspension noise.
and I couldn't even have a conversation on the freeway without yelling.
Talking on the phone before it was illegal in wa was impossible.
I couldnt hear people on the phone and all they heard was background noise drowning me out.

And on the freeway with the volume all the way up the road noise still overpowered the majority of the music.

Now that my current one is deadened with two layers.
I can speak at normal volume on the freeway at any speed.
And it stays relatively quiet inside.
As well as I can keep the stereo at lower listening levels and still hear the details not being overpowered by outside noises.

The only place sound comes through is the roof when it rains.
Because it wasn't deadened.
(I didn't want to take the chance of ruining the headliner)
Which is still in good shape.

I installed my stereo when I lived in Washington.
Where I had a place I could work on it.
Then drove home later and park on the street without fear of things getting stolen.

But now that I've moved to pittsburgh I have no place to tear things apart.
To improve upon the existing design.
Without the neighborhood seeing what I've got.
Everything is pretty concealed now with the cargo cover and tinted windows.
I've never opened the hatch within 20 miles of my home since I moved to pittsburgh.

But I have gotten into my car before with handprints on the rear hatch glass from trying to look inside.

I've seen people on my street and around the city beatin their stereos windows down.
Only to see them driving around later with their windows busted and trash bags taped over them, and their stuff stolen.

So yes I agree that the extra products would make a difference in sound quality.

But given the current design I am happy with.
Or the fact that funds are low.

There is no hurry or need to change things yet.
It is something that can be done at a future time.

Plus I would have to re-tune my dsp.
And that takes a few hours of precise measuremens, amp gain setting, string line placement,
Mic placement, a quiet location(environment), and a full battery charge.

Sometime in the future perhaps but currently its pretty stout as it sits.

And I am not offended or mad or in any way.

[william]

Check out sound deader showdown. Has all kinds of awesome info.
and the science behind it.
it also says 25% is all you need.
and nc thinks for the vw tip never new that. Any pictular years or modal of vw.

[rmoltis]

Dynamats website has some useful information about installation.

Here are the instructions on installation of dynamat extreme on doors.
It's instruction show to cover the entire door panel inside and out.

http://www.dynamat.com/technical_installation_door_kit_install.html

And here are the technical specifications.
I didn't realize that it functioned best at 68 degrees.

http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_xtreme.html

And in the faq section.

How much Dynamat do I need to use to be effective?
You can apply Dynamat in patches (25-50% area coverage) to keep a specific panel from resonating

Or you can apply it over an entire area (such as the floor, doors, or trunk) to create a sound barrier and vibrational damper.

http://www.dynamat.com/faqs_faqs.html

Ultimately it depends on the application and location.
In some places %25 might work well.
But in some places full coverage is best.

For example there was a vibrating part to the light on the roof.
So I took it down and put a tiny piece on the vibrating part to stop it.

I didn't need to cover it fully because sound wasn't transferring through it.
It was just vibrating from sound in the air.

But on the door panels, hatch, trunk floor, trunk walls etc.
I wanted a barrier to prevent outside noise from coming in from the outside.
As well as preventing vibration and resonance.

Also the biggest thing I noticed with the door panels being covered completely.
Was it made the door like a speaker box.
It helped reduce speaker distortion at higher power levels.
And helped improve wave decay.

[nc_festiva]

So yes I agree that the extra products would make a difference in sound quality.

But given the current design I am happy with.
Or the fact that funds are low.

That is kinda what I was getting at was that dynamat is expensive and you can pick up closed cell foam rather cheaply. So what I am gonna do in my festiva in order to keep costs down is kill vibrations on each panel then use the sound deadening foam out of VW's.(Or another car). There are alot of cars in junkyards that had really quiet rides and you can pull that stuff out and get it for next to nothing at the junkyards.

and nc thinks for the vw tip never new that. Any pictular years or modal of vw.

I originally saw it in a gutted vw golf mid nineties to early 2000's but im sure its in most of their newer vehicles.

[Gomez]

I fully treated my New 96 Ranger way back in 96. I had a small fortune wrapped up in that thing. But I tell you what. It was as quiet as ANY car on the road is today. It was so quiet it was kinda surreal to drive. I think I could nearly do that with the Festiva if it wasn't for 2 things:

1. There isn't that much space to be putting the thick deadening foam in the Festiva. The places it needs to be installed is really tight to begin with. And on the floor it will puff out the carpet pretty extensively. BUT I am gonna try and do something.
2. weight! It would be pretty easy to add 100+ lbs. to the car in sound deadening material alone.

[rmoltis]

I fully treated my New 96 Ranger way back in 96. I had a small fortune wrapped up in that thing. But I tell you what. It was as quiet as ANY car on the road is today. It was so quiet it was kinda surreal to drive. I think I could nearly do that with the Festiva if it wasn't for 2 things:

1. There isn't that much space to be putting the thick deadening foam in the Festiva. The places it needs to be installed is really tight to begin with. And on the floor it will puff out the carpet pretty extensively. BUT I am gonna try and do something.
2. weight! It would be pretty easy to add 100+ lbs. to the car in sound deadening material alone.

Tell me about it!
I added 44lbs of dynamat
Just the dynamat alone made a drastic change in the center of gravity
And how the suspension responded in corners.
It has a lot more body roll now, but is much quieter than any stock aspire could ever be.

[nullx3r0]

Is anyone even still reading this section? I have a 1988 ford festiva with a welded steel cage in the back and a box for 4 15s molded into it. It is designed for high end SPL competition. Working on a full RD Audio setup with 4 15" RD Alphas with 4 RD D5 Amps, 100ah 16V limitless lithium, and an undetermined amount of capacitors at the moment.

[firebush357]

Is anyone even still reading this section? I have a 1988 ford festiva with a welded steel cage in the back and a box for 4 15s molded into it. It is designed for high end SPL competition. Working on a full RD Audio setup with 4 15" RD Alphas with 4 RD D5 Amps, 100ah 16V limitless lithium, and an undetermined amount of capacitors at the moment.

Yeah but where is the pix?

[loudrango]

nullx...working on my system as well...no back seat..1 digital designs 9918 on a B2 audio amp and 4 XS power batts.